E4od problems.. No 1st or overdrive

[rob93]

Hey first post here and I am hoping you guys can help me out!

I'm a new owner of a 1994 4x4 f250 factory turbo 7.3 idi and I am having issues with the transmission...

With the selector in drive, I have no overdrive or what feels to be like 1st gear. If I manually shift it from 1 to 2 it does not shift, it will only shift again if I put it into drive, shifting into what I would guess to be third gear. Reverse works fine.

I checked the tps today, I have 1.2v at idle and 4.2v at wot, so that seems to check out. Ive read shorted out brakes could stop the torque converter from locking up. My cab brake light was unplugged when I bought the truck because the buttons on the door do not set off the dome light, but I plugged them back in for a test drive and nothing changed.

I've also read the speed sensor on the rear axle could be causing this, I have not checked it yet but my tachometer and speedometer are working, however cruise control is not.

The OD light was flashing about a week ago, but I disconnected the battery in an attempt to get it to reset something and it has not gone on since, so I am not sure if I can get a code read.

The only other things I can think of to check are the speed sensor or electrical connections at the transmission. Or am I wasting my time and the tranny is shot and I just need a rebuild?

Thank you

Edit: Forgot to add, fluid does not smell burned, and I checked any fuses related to the transmission, all are good.

 

[lindstromjd]

Sounds like your transmission is in limp mode, but not necessarily broke. The flashing "OD" light is evidence of that. Gonna need a reader to find out what the problem is. Or start testing parts... someone with better knowledge of the E4od will come along shortly.

By the way... welcome to the site!

 

[Kevin 007]

That is almost certainly an electrical problem. I had a 90 that did the same thing on occasion when I was first having issues with it. As I always say, first thing to check is the big plug on the pass side of trans. It must be in good shape along with all its wires and it all must be clean. If it ain't, or if there is broken or frayed wires; go no further until you correct this problem. If its not your issue, it will be soon. There are replacement plugs availible with about a foot of wire so you can just cut off your old plug, mate the new wires to the GOOD part of your old harness and you are off to the races!!
Im not saying that this is for sure your problem, but don't overlook that plug, regardless. There are also more sensors then just the speed and tach. Like the FIPL on the injection pump, MLPS on the drivers side of the trans and the list goes on. A scan to read any trouble codes is the best way to troubleshoot these sensors....

 

[rob93]

That is almost certainly an electrical problem. I had a 90 that did the same thing on occasion when I was first having issues with it. As I always say, first thing to check is the big plug on the pass side of trans. It must be in good shape along with all its wires and it all must be clean. If it ain't, or if there is broken or frayed wires; go no further until you correct this problem. If its not your issue, it will be soon. There are replacement plugs availible with about a foot of wire so you can just cut off your old plug, mate the new wires to the GOOD part of your old harness and you are off to the races!!
Im not saying that this is for sure your problem, but don't overlook that plug, regardless. There are also more sensors then just the speed and tach. Like the FIPL on the injection pump, MLPS on the drivers side of the trans and the list goes on. A scan to read any trouble codes is the best way to troubleshoot these sensors....

I thought the FIPL was the same as the TPS? Or am I wrong? Its also on my todo list to check out the plug to the tranny.

Will OBD1 show up code history if I have someone read the codes? I do not have a flashing od light now but I did about a week ago.

 

[Kevin 007]

Yes, the FIPL is also known as the TPS. They have to be set correctly. Let us know if you don't have the info on this. Not sure about code "history"; can't help ya there.

 

[rob93]

In my first post I have checked the TPS. 1.2v at idle and 4.2 at WOT, from what I understand that is acceptable

 

[icanfixall]

The above posting hit on the hot spots. Can you tell us what color the injection pump throttle switch is. They do not last forever and usually recommended to be replaced around 60 to 70 thousand miles. If you have no idea how many miles are on it I would replace it. There is a scanner that will read that tps switch and tell you if there is any gaps in its operation but they can be expensive. AAMCO claims to read the codes for free and advise but check them out to see if they will offer that near you. The upgraded tps switch color is grey or black. I don't recall what color is the bad one. Welcome to the forum too. Our help offered here is free. You wil not get that at any dealership.

 

[trackspeeder]

Hey first post here and I am hoping you guys can help me out!

I'm a new owner of a 1994 4x4 f250 factory turbo 7.3 idi and I am having issues with the transmission...

With the selector in drive, I have no overdrive or what feels to be like 1st gear. If I manually shift it from 1 to 2 it does not shift, it will only shift again if I put it into drive, shifting into what I would guess to be third gear. Reverse works fine.

I checked the tps today, I have 1.2v at idle and 4.2v at wot, so that seems to check out. Ive read shorted out brakes could stop the torque converter from locking up. My cab brake light was unplugged when I bought the truck because the buttons on the door do not set off the dome light, but I plugged them back in for a test drive and nothing changed.

I've also read the speed sensor on the rear axle could be causing this, I have not checked it yet but my tachometer and speedometer are working, however cruise control is not.

The OD light was flashing about a week ago, but I disconnected the battery in an attempt to get it to reset something and it has not gone on since, so I am not sure if I can get a code read.

The only other things I can think of to check are the speed sensor or electrical connections at the transmission. Or am I wasting my time and the tranny is shot and I just need a rebuild?

Thank you

Edit: Forgot to add, fluid does not smell burned, and I checked any fuses related to the transmission, all are good.

Check the TCM relay. You will find it under the hood.

Check the sweep on your TPS. It could have dead spots causing issues.

You can check for codes. Most likely none are stored.

The issue is no power to the S2 solenoid. No power here will kill second and fourth gear shifts. There is a chance this solenoid has failed. If this is the case, you will need to replace the solenoid pack.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

id go right to the relay and also inspect/clean the solenoid pack plug too.
don't clear the codes again.those are our friend! could have helped you out.
you can get an obd1 code scanner at any local auto store for around 30 bucks.or places like amazon.pretty nice to have on hand with an e40d behind your idi.

 

[Black dawg]

but wont it get od with no electical hooked up? I know mine will. I have had two relays fail (moisture problems) and both times, would start in 2 and then shift to od

 

[rob93]

My multimeter is one of the cheaper ones, but by adjusting the throttle very slowly I could watch the voltage increase linearly as the throttle increase, so I believe everything is correct with the TPS. However it is pretty cheap so I will probably replace it anyway before I make the decision that I need a new transmission.

I have checked all relays and fuses related to the transmission, including the tcm relay. I won't have time to mess with the truck until later this week, but checking the plugs at the transmission is on my to do list.

As far as an obd1 scanner, I dont think I have ever come across one at the parts store. I always thought they were more expensive and not so universal like an obd2 is.

About possibly needing new solenoids, my buddy actually has a spare set of brand new solenoids for an e4od in a 1991 bronco. Should these work?

Thank you guys, this is definitely one of the more helpful forums I have been apart of.

 

[Kevin 007]

Im not certain if the bronco solenoid pack will work, my GUESS is that it won't. And refering the the solenoid pack, they are fairly easy to change, got to drop the pan (which is the worst part) then simply un-bolt the old pack and install the new one. I had to replace one when the T.O.T (trans overtemp) sensor failed. With a bad T.O.T, it would start off in second and shift directly to OD with the torque converter locked!!! I had to run it this way for 3 days, being very gentlw with it of course

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

it'll probably just be something simple like a failed MLPS or bad solenoid pack plug.
you'll figure it out.don't even think mechanical failure until everything electrical is sorted out.
too many of these trans have been misdiagnosed and rebuilt needlessly,im sure of it.

yeah the code readers are everywhere.nothing mysterious there.here's some examples:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...r-Ford-1984-1995/_/N-255s?itemIdentifier=2396

http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3145-Ford-Digital-Reader/dp/B000EW0KHW

you drive her for a few more miles,the light will start to flash again and you can grab the code.

all your looking for is basic on board 1.good old school.
shoot,even the ob2 scanners are cheap now.can't be used for this trans,but just saying.picked one of those up for my little car.

sometimes you don't get codes for what failed,but a code as a result of a failed sensor that caused another to read incorrectly,or caused that sensor to read correctly but only because it was reading what it monitors was out of spec caused by something else haha! but it's generally helpful getting you pointed in the right direction.often it's directly to the issue too.never know til you pull the code first.
it's all about taking it one step at a time and you'll trace it right out.it's not really as hard nor complicated as some make it out to be......not most of the time.

 

[trackspeeder]

Im not certain if the bronco solenoid pack will work, my GUESS is that it won't. And refering the the solenoid pack, they are fairly easy to change, got to drop the pan (which is the worst part) then simply un-bolt the old pack and install the new one. I had to replace one when the T.O.T (trans overtemp) sensor failed. With a bad T.O.T, it would start off in second and shift directly to OD with the torque converter locked!!! I had to run it this way for 3 days, being very gentlw with it of course

Yes, the pack will work. It needs to be in the same group 89-94 or 95-97 ect.

 

[Kevin 007]

Yes, the pack will work. It needs to be in the same group 89-94 or 95-97 ect.

There ya go!!!