E4od problems.. No 1st or overdrive

riotwarrior

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Wow....this is tons of great info, someone should put it concisevely into one post and make it a sticky....pics of said parts for NEWBS like me would be good too...

JM2CW

Al

Oh BTW...don't look at me to do this one, I don't have an auto...and if you wait till I do I won't have nothing to go by...rofl LOL
 

rob93

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Ok so after resetting the battery after pulling codes I am no longer in limp mode. However I still only have the 2nd and 3rd gear, but the shift is not hard like it was in limp mode. Seeing that I do not have first or OD when not in limp mode, makes me think that the torque converter is not shot, as that should only cause me to lose OD, or am I wrong?
I am picking up an RPM sensor from Ford tomorrow to see if that fixes it.
BTW I have cleaned the solenoid pack plug twice now. I used electrical cleaner, then blow it out with air, then grease the connector both times.
 

rob93

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Question for you guys.

I have been doing some research about e4ods. I have read and am wondering if it is true that immediately after you let off the throttle, the torque converter unlocks?

On my 4l60e, if the TC is locked, you can let go of the throttle and the TC will stay locked and RPM will go down as your speedo goes down.

I am asking this because shorty after my e4od shifts into 3rd, the shift is followed by a 2-300 drop in RPM, which I think may be the TC locking. Only thing is, the second I let off the throttle the RPM drops to idle, rather than dropping with speed like on my 4l60e (because the TC is locked)

If this is true with e4ods, then my TC seems to be locking... which should rule out my TC being shot, am I correct?
 

FORDF250HDXLT

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the converter unlocks after it has locked up under a couple conditions.
the fuel is let off.this saves fuel as you coast downhill.
you apply the brakes.
right before an od to 3rd downshift.the duration time before it locks up again is controlled via sensors (the tps being a big player,and why it's important to have it set correctly.)

if you had a failed converter,you wouldn't have any gears.
if you had a failed lockup disc in the converter,she wouldn't lockup or if she did would slip.you could get code 62 (62 can be a results of improper lock state due to something else too though.) and you would likely see a lot of deep black metallic shavings in the pan.

keep focusing on the solenoid pack plug,the solenoids themselves,the mlps connector,and the pcm plug.
you must have the correct voltages/resistance values to get 1st gear in the D position,and finally od after 3rd gear shift and lockup.


making sure your not leaving anything out;
why did you replace the tach sensor?
also,this transmission was recently working correct? this isn't a recent replacement that you haven't got working yet?

adding couple snapshots for hardware diagnosing info.

if push comes to shove,you could drop your pan,remove the solenoid pack and take just that to a trans shop to have tested for you.
you can advance search here using my screen name.iv posted full solenoid testing info before.

also you still haven't told us about the mlps replacement yet.
be it was old,have replaced with new.the new was the old or updated.you re-pinned it.etc.etc.etc.
remember we are not there,we don' know whats going on,when it was last working etc.you can't leave anything out.
 

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icanfixall

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Usually crude in the electrical plugs will cause all kinds of hell with the E4OD trans. Mine would start blinking the od lite after about 1 hour of driving. I replaced every switch and never found the problem. Three differant dealerships spend my money and did not fix it. I finally replaced the trans with a Jaspers trans. Problem went away for a few months. Then came back. I ask why this was happening on another forum. Answer was dirty connections. So I got some contact cleaner that was harmell to plastic.. opened up 7 differant connections on the trans and under the master cylinder. Cleaned them and greased them with die electric grease.. No more problems. Cost of the dealership work. About $3100.00...:eek::mad: That included the tran replacement.. Cost of eventual actual repair.. Less than 10 bucks. Cost to Ford.... I will never recomment them to anyone. Even talking with customer service in detroit they told me no refund due because I didn't keep telling the same dealer to fix it. Instead I tried three diferant dealers HOPEING that some trained tech could do the job... Funny how a business ruins their customer reputation nationwide.. Now al those dealerships are out of business... Wonder if I played a part in that... Kinda dought it but fun to think about it... Saddly some good people lost there means of supporting their familys too...
 

trackspeeder

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Question for you guys.

I have been doing some research about e4ods. I have read and am wondering if it is true that immediately after you let off the throttle, the torque converter unlocks?

On my 4l60e, if the TC is locked, you can let go of the throttle and the TC will stay locked and RPM will go down as your speedo goes down.

I am asking this because shorty after my e4od shifts into 3rd, the shift is followed by a 2-300 drop in RPM, which I think may be the TC locking. Only thing is, the second I let off the throttle the RPM drops to idle, rather than dropping with speed like on my 4l60e (because the TC is locked)

If this is true with e4ods, then my TC seems to be locking... which should rule out my TC being shot, am I correct?


Your converter will stay locked unless the RPM's are out of range, brakes are applied or something goofy happens.

What you are seeing is the is the one way clutch doing its job. This clutch allows the transmission to free wheel in OD.


if the converter is not making funky sounds and is locking, its fine. There could be other issues electrical or mechanical.

Press the OD OFF button. This will apply third, lock the coast clutch. Then you will have engine braking. Your RPM's will drop with the speedometer. This function override the one way clutch so there is no free wheeling action.
 

FORDF250HDXLT

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always wondered if the converter was unlocking there or something else going on that makes her "free roll".
so that is the coast clutch then.that little ******* that fell out on me one day when removing my front pump.:D
 

rob93

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Well everybody.. its fixed. Turns out I needed a new solenoid pack.

I used my buddies spare pack from his 1991 bronco, so it does work, they are identical.

TC is locking up properly too!
 

Ford1995

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Okay so I have a 1991 F250 with the 7.3 IDI e4od tranny the overdrive light is glowing dim in the transmission will not shift at all but we'll still catch in park
 

FORDF250HDXLT

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Okay so I have a 1991 F250 with the 7.3 IDI e4od tranny the overdrive light is glowing dim in the transmission will not shift at all but we'll still catch in park

You should also have these symptoms:
1.Manually shifting into 1 and 2 are both 2nd gear.
2.If you rev the engine while in D,you'll notice the trans is in high gear.
3.Your tach doesn't work.

You lost power to your TECA.Start by inspecting your relay.
full
 

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