E4od problems.. No 1st or overdrive

[rob93]

Had a little time to mess with it tonight. I cleaned the MLPS on the driver side of the tranny and the solenoid pack plug on the passenger side. I used electrical connector cleaner and then blew them out with compressed air. Took a test drive and.......................... nothing :/... But there is still the possibility that they are failing... off to google to find out how to test these sensors!

 

[rob93]

As far as the od light blinking again, still nothing, I have probably driven it 20 miles since resetting it. Now I know in the future not to do that!

 

[rob93]

Had some time to mess with it tonight. I checked the VSS on the diff. It has gear oil inside the sensor, is this normal?

I also found this coming from the main fuse/relay box under the hood. It is unplugged and I cannot see anything it would plug into.

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I also traced these relays back to the solenoid pack plug. I tested them for continuity and they are good. Is this factory? I have not read anything about these two separate relays being for the transmission.

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[rob93]

Update. THe other day my OD light began flashing again after replacing the OD button switch. So Today I tried pulling my own codes. I tried the jumper wire with key on engine off test, but got nothing from the CEL. I am not sure if this also works for transmission codes. Any which way, after unsuccessfully pulling codes (CEL did not flash), my OD light went back off, so I took it for a test run.

I had 1st! I had smooth perfect shifts 1-2-3, but still no overdrive! I slowed to a stop to see if it would go in 1st again, which it did. However, before I got home, it was back to the OD light flashing and back to the same problem of only having 2nd and 3rd gear. I am going to take it to get scanned tomorrow, once I get the shift linkage fixed again.

Any ideas? I will definitely post back once I get it scanned.

 

[Dave 001]

I am not sure if this also works for transmission codes.

Yes, it does. But do yourself a favor and buy a code reader. I bought one from RockAuto about 3 weeks ago for $27. You can't get a shop to scan it for that cheap. It was super easy to use and you'll also have it forever.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3068298

 

[CGBear]

There was a question about which color is the "good" fipl earlier. I've been told that if you've got a gray fipl to replace it right away, and to make sure the new one is black. My truck burned up an e4od and before I installed the new trans I noticed I had the gray fipl. I can't say if that was the reason my trans burned up, but it could've been a contributing factor.

 

[rob93]

Yes, it will. But do yourself a favor and buy a code reading. I bought one from RockAuto about 3 weeks ago for $27. You can't get a shop to scan it for that cheap. It was super easy to use and you'll also have it forever.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3068298

Wow, I did not realize you could get them so cheap. Thanks for that link I just ordered one through Amazon.

 

[Kalashnikov]

Slight high-jack,

I was having the same issue in my 89 except my TPS was reading only about .5v IIRC and my tach would only work when cranking and sayed at 0 after the truck was running. I tried replacing the tach sensor and TPS and nothing chnaged. Also checked the plug on the side of the trans and it was ok/cleaned it. Drove maybe a couple thousand miles this way.

Sunddenly everything was normal again one day and has been since after another couple thousand miles. I did notice my OD off button doesn't work tho.

Unfortunately I don't have any input as to fixing it but I'm curious to see what you come up with.

 

[rob93]

So got my code reader, I am getting code 62, in the book it comes with that means "transmission 4/3 circuit fault". Not sure what this means

 

[02x72]

I had the same issue once, it was the TECA relay under the hood. $15 later from NAPA and it was good as new

 

[rob93]

I have not replaced any relays but bench tested those related to the transmission and they all checked out.

I just tested the rpm sensor on the injector pump, I got 2500 ohms between the prongs but did not get any voltage reading or change in voltage when the rpms increased

 

[rob93]

Would like to summarize all of my symptoms

No 1st or OD with tranny in D
Putting the tranny in 1 does not give me 1st
Code 62, which seems to mean torque coverter slippage
Replaced the MLPS
TPS is within spec
Checked all relays and fuses related to the tranny
Cleaned and greased solenoid pack plug
RPM sensor does not go up in voltage when RPM go up, but does have 2500 ohms between the prongs
Somewhat randomly I got the tranny to give me 1st, 2nd, 3rd, but still no OD for a very short time
Fluid seems good
VSS has gear oil in the plug, not sure if this is normal

Thanks

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

Would like to summarize all of my symptoms

No 1st or OD with tranny in D
Putting the tranny in 1 does not give me 1st
Code 62, which seems to mean torque coverter slippage
Replaced the MLPS
TPS is within spec
Checked all relays and fuses related to the tranny
Cleaned and greased solenoid pack plug
RPM sensor does not go up in voltage when RPM go up, but does have 2500 ohms between the prongs
Somewhat randomly I got the tranny to give me 1st, 2nd, 3rd, but still no OD for a very short time
Fluid seems good
VSS has gear oil in the plug, not sure if this is normal

Thanks

what MLPS did you use? brand and part #?
did you line up the correct lines? or better yet,did you check voltage readings in the D position at the mlps? what did you get?


MLPS measure between Gy/R (SigRet) & LB/Y (TR SIgnal)


"MLPS adjustment
Place manual lever in Neutral. Line up I.D mark on sensor with l.D. mark on plastic bushing. Tighten bolts.

To check MLPS

1. Hook red lead of DVOM to pin # 199 (MLP sensor signal).
2. Hook black lead of meter to pin 359 (sensor signal return).
3. Set meter to ohms.
4. Move manual lever through the different positions and compare DVOM reading to chart below.

Manuel lever position
Meter should read:
P 3769 to 4608 ohms
R 1304 to 1593 ohms
N 660 to 807 ohms
D 361 to 442 ohms
2 190 to 232 ohms
1 80 to 95 ohms
Important
If the MLPS needs replacement, use Ford part # E5TZ-7A247-A. This kit includes a new style harness connector. You must replace the connector to use the new MLPS. By sliding the old wire separator from the original connector up the harness you can leave it in place as you install the new connector. This helps to keep the wires in their original location.
Note
Make sure you clean the harness connector with brake clean and apply some dielectric grease to the pins. This will ensure a good connection. Use Permatex part # 67V (dielectric tune-up grease). You can get it at most auto parts stores."

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[rob93]

The MLPS i used (slips over arm on tranmission, drivers side) is NAPA echlin part# NS6528
I lined up the mark on the MLPS with the mark on the transmission when in neutral.
I have not checked voltage at the MLPS, however, with my old MLPS I tested resistance according to these specs:
P 3769 to 4608 ohms
R 1304 to 1593 ohms
N 660 to 807 ohms
D .... 361 to 442 ohms
2 190 to 232 ohms
I 80 to 95 ohms

I was out of spec by a few hundred ohms so I replaced it. I have not tested the new one, but now I am thinking I should

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

i had a ****** of a time with mine.finally i just had to pull the connector and spray the hell out if over and over with electrical spray.removing all the grease i had it soaked with,and sprayed it over and over again until code 62 went away,i also got the mlps code once,but i knew where the issue was cus mine was jumping out of gear.
turns out when i removed the removed the trans,i got the plug dirty and the old grease sucked up all the grime.
i got that sucker spotless a few months ago,not a single issue since.im afraid to pull it and grease it now haha.
keep at 'er.

here are the voltage readings:
http://www.transonline.com/transdigest/magazines/1998-10/Shift Pointers/index.html