E fuel pump question

Skinny Lennie

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Hey guys and merry Christmas!
So a couple weeks ago I took off my mech fuel pump and put a e pump on. I installed it in the engine bay and not back on the frame so it pulls instead of pushes. So here is my morning routine since install. 1. Pop hood 2. Grab half empty can of starting fluid 3. Turn switch on so the pump runs 4. Go to the fuel filter Schrader valve bleed air for a sec 5. Release and do it 2 more times until fuel squirts out 6. Spray start fluid 7. Floor the fuel and pray it starts 8. If it doesn’t start it will fire off for a split second and die 9. If #8 happens bleed fuel again 10. Most of the time batteries are tired and it’s not gonna happen. 11. Wake wife up give a choice to either drive me or be without a car for the whole day 12 if truck fires off and you get to work park the truck shut it off 13. Pop hood 14. Turn switch on so fuel pump runs 15. Bleed until fuel squirts out 16. Wonder why you replaced the mechanical pump cause this is worse than before.
The truck is a 1994 f250 7.3idi turbo. 281,000. The rear fuel tank leaks and I only use the front. It’s a project plus a daily driver any help would be appreciated
 

MtnHaul

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Without knowing which pump you used I would venture a guess that it is a pump designed to push fuel instead of pulling it. Also definitely sounds like an air leak. Maybe install a check valve to prevent drainback?
 

Skinny Lennie

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Without knowing which pump you used I would venture a guess that it is a pump designed to push fuel instead of pulling it. Also definitely sounds like an air leak. Maybe install a check valve to prevent drainback?
I installed 2 check valves 1from the outlet of the pump that goes to fuel filter and 1 where it pulls from the tank. I heard the faucet duralift pump pushed better than it pulled
 

IDIBRONCO

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This
It’s a faucet duralift
could be your whole problem. The quality of the Facets isn't anywhere as good as it used to be. I've seen several people on here who said that theirs only lasted a few months and a few who said that it was bad practically out of the box.
 

Skinny Lennie

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This
I’m thinking about putting a mech pump back on.
could be your whole problem. The quality of the Facets isn't anywhere as good as it used to be. I've seen several people on here who said that theirs only lasted a few months and a few who said that it was bad practically out of the box.
 

lotzagoodstuff

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What's the crack pressure on the check valves you installed? You could be making it even harder for the Facet to act as a "puller".
 

Cubey

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A good lower priced pump for NA and "normal" (not high performance) turbo IDIs.

https://www.holley.com/products/fue...carbureted_electric_fuel_pumps/parts/12-801-1

Dunno why they say "gasoline only", presumably because few diesel vehicles can use low pressure pumps like that, and they want to upsell to people who do have them?

I have one on my ATS 085 turbo IDI RV. I did have timing(?) issues with it at first but putting a fuel pressure regulator to drop the pressure a bit helped. It would seemingly top out at 55-60mph without the regulator.

You can buy cheap repair kits for them if you want to have a way to fix it when out on the road rather than replace.
https://www.holley.com/products/fue...nd_service/fuel_pump_repair_kits/parts/12-805
 
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Isaac Ristow

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I have a Holley blue on my turbo 6.2 and man that thing is noisy. My idi has a facet 40222 I haven't had a lick of trouble with bought it a few years ago just started driving the truck this year
 

Cubey

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I have a Holley blue on my turbo 6.2 and man that thing is noisy. My idi has a facet 40222 I haven't had a lick of trouble with bought it a few years ago just started driving the truck this year

Yep they are noisy but I have mine down on the frame rail near the front tank so with the engine on, you almost can't hear it. When driving, you can't at all. My F250 has a cheapo Mr Gasket 12D 30gph pump that people say don't last, but it's been fine on there for me. It was already on there when I bought it too.
 

The_Josh_Bear

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The duralift has two built-in check valves. So you don't need one anywhere from the tank to the IP.

Where you need the check valve is off the fuel filter header to the return system. There is a pathetic one stock but is prolly broken given your air intrusion issues.

Speaking of fuel headers, the OEM ones will leak air from the filter heater element. Eventually they will leak fuel but will let air in first as the fuel drains back to the tank. They will also leak at the two-piece fuel filter, if you haven't switched to the wix/Napa style one-piece you might consider that.

You can help yourself start the engine by jumping the starter solenoid with a screwdriver when under the hood and THEN spraying ether. Don't spray until it's turning over. Then you can add a lot more safely, and it will start the first time.
Do your glow plugs not work?
 

MtnHaul

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Even though my Facet 40223 performs fine for me with fuel turned up 1.5 flats I still would recommend the OP switch to something else if the pump is a dud.. Probably best to have a little more pressure than needed from the pump and just regulate it 5-7psi.
But come to think of it, my truck will start with just the IP sucking fuel so I would bet the check valves or possibly a clog somewhere are part of your problem. Good luck
 
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