deleting fuel head question

olBlue

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HI guys I'm new on here (long time lurker)but have been searching high and low. Im kinda new to diesels so bear with me. Im in the process of rebuilding my 94 7.3 idi Turbo from a cylinder 5 ring loss and I'm upgrading stuff as I'm rebuilding. I want to do away with the fuel head/filter setup and run a dual filter setup on the frame and a facet lift pump to pull the fuel through. My question is the return system. I have found other threads and based off what I've found I've modified the fuel system diagram to what i think should work. Will this setup work correctly? thank you guys ahead for any help.
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FORDF250HDXLT

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Welcome to OBN.
Yeah,all you need to do is install your electric pump and filters in place of the originals.Anywhere in front of the ip is fine.However if I were you,I would install the electric pump and the filters up in the engine bay.Take advantage of the pumps design to pull fuel.
Also if you install it in line first,rather than after like you show it,the screen in the fuel pump bowl will catch any big stuff,saving that from getting into your filter,saving costs because the stainless screen is washable with some carb cleaner/brake cleaner.
The 7.3l filter is pretty decent though.Unlike the older 6.9l separate water separator/filter setup.This one,most of us find very acceptable.....not that you can't change it if you want.
 

olBlue

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Awesome thanks! I was going to put it on the frame but haven't decided yet. Thats a good idea putting the pump before the filters too so ill definitely do that. Is my return system correct then? I know I've seen someone run something like it before. thanks again for the help.

Also wouldn't the pump still be "pulling" fuel if the filter setup were located on the frame and the pump in the engine bay?
 

icanfixall

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Welcome to the forum. Install the pump you want BEFORE the filters. Remember any station diesel pump has a huge filter cleaning the diesel before it reaches our fuel tanks. I don't feel you need to replace the factory filter head. they do a great job simple and clean. Might remove the top fuel heater because they usually leak and make a mess. Not much pressure so you can use JB weld or some rtv to fill the hole.Or tap it and install a pipe plug like many have. Your return line does not need to have the Tee installed. Running the discharge from the injection pump to either back of injectors works fine. Remember simple gets you home.
 

IDIoit

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doing your return line the way you have laid out, is, IMO overkill.
you simply don't need it.
all you NEED is the return line from your pump to go to either #1 or #2 injector return cap.
and a cross over with a line going back to the tank.
I have done extensive fuel system repairs and modifications.
I am no professional, but I have successfully ran my fuel system without issues.

my tanke on the location of the fuel pump:
pumps are designed differently.
for instance, a faucet diaphragm pump is designed to pull fuel.
I am running a vein pump, a holley black electric fuel pump.
its a pusher, so it needs to be installed as close to the tank as you can.

filters:
this is all personal preference. ive seen them in all kinds of configurations without issues.
before, after pump, sometimes both(like I should be running a water separator before my holley pump, they don't like moisture.)

one thing you do need.
a way to purge the air directly before the IP.
or its going to be hell on ya.
they intended the filter and Schrader valve to be on the engine for this reason. and the filter gives the air a chance to bleed to the top, and then evacuated from the top.

I like to run my filters/sep's on the fender.
sure its not as clean as the frame rail, but I don't want to have to lay down to purge air, or evac water.
mostly personal preference.

now a little bit about my fuel system.
I use steel braided oil/fuel line with AN style fittings through out the truck.
from the tank to the pump, to the filter, to the IP.
and then from the return lines, back to the tank.

return systems are getting to be fancy.
I cant wait to try these out in the picture.

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olBlue

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thanks guys for the great info. I re drew the diagram. I have a R&D stage 1 cam, injectors and a RD2-90 IP to install hence the reason i want to do away with the factory one even though it does a good job.So what I'm thinking is I want to mount the filter setup on the frame and use a puller pump like the facet dura-lift.I would mount it in the engine bay and put a schrader valve in between it and the IP to bleed off air. Or is this not a location for a schrader valve. I like the braided lines like IDIoit uses but thats to fancy for the moment haha. thanks again guys

also @ IDIoit - is the facet pump a decent pump to have? or is this all personal preference too. I prefer the pump to pull fuel.

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DaveBen

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The Schrader valve needs to be at the top of the fuel line run. Air floats and that is why it needs to be at the top. It will not do anything if it is lower.
 

olBlue

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Yes thanks DaveBen. to clear up what i meant, the schrader valve would be at the highest point in the fuel system right after the fuel pump and before the IP. thats why I'm mounting the fuel pump in the engine bay so its up high with the shader valve mounted to it.
 

IDIoit

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ive had a bad experience with faucets. so im bias. I come from a hotrod background. so I love my holley fuel pumps.

don't think a Schrader valve mounted to a fuel pump will do you any good, too much agitation in the fuel pump.
but feel free to try it and report back the issues you have.
 

olBlue

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ok thanks ill give it a try. I guess if i have issues ill be mounting the filters in the bay with the pump and put the schrader valve after those. @IDIoit what holley fuel pump are you running?
 

Kiwif150

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Just my 02 worth - run the pump between the tank and filters ..... this will make bleeding the system way easier. Done a similar thing to an old jet boat we were running an LD28 in.
 

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