Dana 60 going in...eventually

[david85]

Here's what the driver's side front brake line looked like. It cracked with minimal effort once I got the fitting to turn. Would have sucked to have that fail on an emergency stop.

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[u2slow]

All I can say about the swaybar is I took mine off and didn't miss it.

 

[hacked89]

I have a completed D60 swap just let me know what you still need pics of.

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[david85]

All I can say about the swaybar is I took mine off and didn't miss it.

Any extra body roll as result? Up to now, my truck has been flat in the corners and will skid before I see any body roll. I had a rear sway bar link break a while back and didn't make much difference when empty, but the rear axle doesn't have a diesel engine over it.

 

[david85]

I have a completed D60 swap just let me know what you still need pics of.

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I'm trying to verify the length of the sway bar end links: https://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-k8663

Comments in that web line say it's about 9.5". Seems about right but if you can measure yours, that would help.

 

[u2slow]

Any extra body roll as result? Up to now, my truck has been flat in the corners and will skid before I see any body roll. I had a rear sway bar link break a while back and didn't make much difference when empty, but the rear axle doesn't have a diesel engine over it.

Maybe a little? IME, a fresh set of springs has done more for anti-sway anyway. Prefer the extra clearance and not limiting suspension travel.


My K30 (gas) I took it off. My W250 (cummins) I took it off. My F350 (PSD crew 4x4) they came off. The one that swayed most was the K30 (ex-MacBlo; Kelsey Bay). You can probably imagine what those springs were like.

 

[david85]

Waiting on parts, but getting closer. Rust treatment and industrial paint applied. Not sure how long it will hold up but it's all getting sprayed with Fluid Film eventually anyway.

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[Black dawg]

Any extra body roll as result? Up to now, my truck has been flat in the corners and will skid before I see any body roll. I had a rear sway bar link break a while back and didn't make much difference when empty, but the rear axle doesn't have a diesel engine over it.

I had my sway bars off for a couple years (f350 4x crew cab). Unloaded it wasn't even noticeable, but with heavy loads or a big camper they went back on.

 

[david85]

Now that the rad-support is successfully refurbished (See here: https://www.oilburners.net/threads/repairing-a-rusted-rad-support-for-a-1986-style.88539/), I'm getting back to this.

The front suspension is now all in and functional. The leaf spring caps were pretty much done so I bought new ones. One broke off as you can see here, while the other was visibly deformed. I hate spending money when I know I could have built them but I'm short on time.

At least they look nice. I also remember Towcat once saying that there are either Bilstien shocks or nothing. Online research seems to agree. I also run them on my E24 and they work well. As for the old jobber brand shocks I had on the Twin I-beam setup? Well, I compressed them by hand a few weeks ago and they still haven't recovered. They were probably shot for years and I never knew.

And then there's the front shackles. No doubt many of you have seen trashed rubber bushings like this before. I ended up putting new OEM style shackles but also bought a set of urethane bushings to install on the originals as spares. I'm curious how long the rubbers will last.

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[Scotty4]

Nothing like fresh metal and fresh paint.

 

[david85]

Nothing like fresh metal and fresh paint.

As I often tell myself at times like this: Take a good look, because this is as nice as it will ever be.

 

[ZWilson07]

Any update on this? Been a long time coming lol.

 

[david85]

Any update on this? Been a long time coming lol.

You're not kidding

I've been too busy with my day job and I had to do some front end work on our new-to-us SD F450 (yay for death-wobble).

But the 4wd setup is pretty much done. Hopefully the driveshaft fits. It should, since it came out of another E4OD truck, but you never know. Then I'll have to either swap the rear gears, or the whole rear axle to get everything to 3.55s. Gonna miss those 3.08s but for the amount of city driving I do lately, they hurt more than they help.

Right now, I have some cosmetic work to do on the fender after I found some rust and a couple hairline cracks that needed addressing. I would have never known if I didn't have to pull the fenders, but at least I caught it early. I also have the transmission out for rebuild. I think this is what they call scope creep.

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

As I often tell myself at times like this: Take a good look, because this is as nice as it will ever be.

That's what the guys at the Stihl shop said when I was admiring a line trimmer I bought from them. Much of it was the fact that I buy almost nothing(machinery) brand-new.

And I have thought it many, many times since then!

Looks great from over here brother!

 

[david85]

Alright. Time for some updates.

As I mentioned in other posts, the E4OD gave up the ghost in the middle of last summer and with work so busy, it's taken a while to get everything back together. But I'm getting there.

So on that note, the frame upgrades are now complete. Originally, I never installed the upper bracket on the driver's side of the transmission cross member (13 years ago when I first converted to the E4OD). Since the 4wd donor truck was also an E4OD, I was finally able to correct this. And, since I now had an extra cross member, I installed it. Because, why not? I doubt any added stiffness in the frame will be noticeable, but it does add some protection for the drive shaft and transfer case. I do have a rather ugly skidplate that came with the donor truck but I'm still not sure if I really want to use it.

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