Dana 60 gearing 3.55 vs 4.10

BigRigTech

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Ok, my 91 has 3.55 gears with a posi in the 10.25". My Dana 60 has 4.10 gears in it. Which would you guys use? I like the fuel mileage that my 3.55's are getting. I don't know sqaut about Dana axles or parts interchange. (really like/use the Ford 9") If I swapped to 3.55's would I need a new carrier too? I can get the 10.25" axle 4.10's from the donor truck for free if I want them.
 

Mr_Roboto

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Unless you tow heavy I would not switch the rear to 4.10's. So I guess that leaves you changing the front to match the rear.

Front axles use different gearsets than rear axles, keep that in mind when shopping for parts so you don't get the wrong gears.

Personally I feel that if you are going to buy a new gearset, go for broke and get a limited slip carrier for the front too. Just no locker up front if it will be driven on the road with the hubs locked.
 

BigRigTech

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I don't offroad, I mostly want 4wd for snowstorms and hauling firewood out of the bush. No money for a limited slip unless it's used and cheap...LOL
 

Russ

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Having from gone from 4.10's to 3.55's Running empty 3.55 are OK, If you tow anything more than say 4,000 lbs go with the 4.10's
 

riotwarrior

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I'd go 4:10's and plan a overdrive later.

Kudos to a cheap LS to rebuild,

If your not running that on the streets much an easy locker would work....you can just run one hub locked and one unlocked if need be for short street use.

Personally I myself am not opposed to lockers front and rear and on the street ...snow / ice n lockers can be tricky with a short WB like mine unlike the longer WB of PU which can make it a more acceptable ride.
 

JPR

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I have a dana 60 with a limited slip, I regret not having gone with an ARB.

The problem is the truck does not want to turn in 2wd with the hubs locked on the road. In the mud it is very strange turning in 4wd. It wants to go sideways in the direction the front tires are pointed instead of turning in a circle.

On the opposite side, the truck and flat bed trailer have been buried to the axles and the truck dug its way out. With these trucks as nose heavy as they are, having a locker or limited slip under the front makes a huge difference.
 
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BigRigTech

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My truck as an E4OD, It's running just under 2k at 60mph. I don't do much towing. At most I'll be towing my Ranger drag truck next summer for 4 or 5 race weekends....Now if I could just talk the wifey into a 5th wheel travel trailer...LOL....Building a simple, reliable and affordable rig here....No turbo's, no GV's and etc. 7.3NA, 10.25LS rear, D60 front....Simple and rugged - sorta' like me...:D :rotflmao
 

82F100SWB

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To go to 3.54's in your front axle, you can re-use your carrier, the Ford High Pinion axles don't use a carrier split like the low pinion axles do. I have a set of 3.54's in my d60 that's laying around, but, I'm a bit too far away to make a trade worthwhile.
 

BigRigTech

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Not anytime soon, I want to get this swap done and concentrate my funds on my Ranger drag truck project this winter so it's running for the spring of 08....
 

riotwarrior

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If you plan on taller tires at all, then go 4:10's as previously mentiond. Also seeing as you have an E4OD then you are good to go for the benefit of lower gearing.

Here is a link http://www.rocky-road.com/calculator.html that helps to calculate the axle ratio for ya for tire size etc.

Failing to plan is planning to fail, remember it is simpler to live a while with say 4:10 gearing and knowing your planning larger tires, than to have to re-gear and re-tire later. Doing the work now, saves time and money in long run.
 

BigRigTech

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Honestly, there probably won't be a tire size change....This is my daily driver after all and I bought it for fuel mileage....16" Load range E tires are expensive enough as it is let alone larger rubber. :eek: I'm going to try and find a set of 3.54's to put in the D60 and I'll sell the 4.10's.
 
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7.3shrk

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Are you doing the ratio swap yourself? If you are, change the rear, and leave the 60 alone. It will be easier, as the shims are behind the bearings on the carrier on a 60, and behind the cap on a 10.25. If you want to change preload or the backlash, you have to remove the bearings.
 
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