Crazy IDI build ideas

[Thewespaul]

I’ve got some custom clutch kits I’m fixing to add to the store in a week or two once I get some inventory from sb that’ll be good for these higher power builds.

-13” single disk that’s a streetable hybrid material for 500hp/1000tq 27,000 lbs $1100
-13” full ceramic single disk (clutch is basically an on/off switch)550-600hp and 1200tq 30,000lbs $1300
-13” dual disk clutch masters street clutch 900hp/2000tq $2350
-13” dual disk clutch masters competition clutch 1300hp/2500tq $2500

 

[hacked89]

I’ve got a some custom clutch kits I’m fixing to add to the store in a week or two once I get some inventory from sb that’ll be good for these higher power builds.

-13” single disk that’s a streetable hybrid material for 500hp/1000tq 27,000 lbs $1100
-13” full ceramic single disk (clutch is basically a on/off switch)550-600hp and 1200tq 30,000lbs $1300
-13” dual disk clutch masters street clutch 900hp/2000tq $2350
-13” dual disk clutch masters competition clutch 1300hp/2500tq $2500

You're killing it man. .. Every time I'm thinking of something you're releasing it.

When you say clutch kits.. I'm assuming it includes the flywheel? Is it the na or idit sb flywheel?

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[IDIBRONCO]

My logic is, it's going to the machine shop anyway to tank and check the heads and cylinders and any necessary machining. Even if I got turbo pistons, rods and balancer, I would still balance the rotating assembly. An IDIT and IDI crank are the same but weighted differently from the factory.

I COMPLETELY 100% agree with this.

Clutch, yep what you said.
I like southbend. They peak at 425hp/900tq, shy of our 500hp.
Im going to do it though and see what happens.

I'll be watching to see what happens. It will probably be YEARS until I reach my goal. I still have to buy another truck to build up. Then it's small steps from there. Slow and steady. Hopefully I won't be at Joe Biden mentality before I get it done.

 

[Thewespaul]

You're killing it man. .. Every time I'm thinking of something you're releasing it.

When you say clutch kits.. I'm assuming it includes the flywheel? Is it the na or idit sb flywheel?

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They will all be a full kits, na or turbo flywheels, all the hardware, hydraulics, throwout bearing and new fork. The dual disk kits run a very lightweight billet flywheel.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I’ve got a some custom clutch kits I’m fixing to add to the store in a week or two once I get some inventory from sb that’ll be good for these higher power builds.

-13” single disk that’s a streetable hybrid material for 500hp/1000tq 27,000 lbs $1100
-13” full ceramic single disk (clutch is basically a on/off switch)550-600hp and 1200tq 30,000lbs $1300
-13” dual disk clutch masters street clutch 900hp/2000tq $2350
-13” dual disk clutch masters competition clutch 1300hp/2500tq $2500

AWESOME!!! Maybe I won't have to give up the ZF5 after all! Plus it's WAY cheaper than a John Woods transmission and controller. Heck. I could use that money on engine upgrades instead.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

The dual disk kits run a very lightweight billet flywheel.

These sound great, but are they very streetable?

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Heck. I could use that money on engine upgrades instead.

Obviously I don't have the money yet, but if the Government can spend money they don't have then why can't I? Maybe I should ask my banker?

 

[Thewespaul]

The dual disk street clutch should be very comparable in feel to a typical stock replacement clutch like luk. The clamping comes from all the extra surface area instead of spring rate, so we can run clutch master's street clutch material and should be very nice for a street/tow application making big power. The competition dual disk is the same kit with a more aggressive material to handle high temps in a drag racing or pulling application, so it would be pretty grabby to drive on the street but would be fine for a toy. The single disk 500hp clutch is heavier, but not as grabby as the comp kit because of the hybrid compound, part of the discs run a street material and the others run the comp material to make it easier to slip in a street application, so would be a bit more aggressive than the 425hp kits that are out now but still tow/street friendly. The 600hp single disk kit could be street driven in something that's not going to see a lot of miles since all the disks run the competition compounds and it basically is an on/off switch at the engagement point, but it wouldn't burn up being used on the street, just annoying to drive, and tough to use when towing.

 

[Duke84]

My logic is, it's going to the machine shop anyway to tank and check the heads and cylinders and any necessary machining. Even if I got turbo pistons, rods and balancer, I would still balance the rotating assembly. An IDIT and IDI crank are the same but weighted differently from the factory.
This isn't to say you wouldn't be OK swapping those three things and not balancing the assembly, cause people do that without issues. But do people do that on the power we are talking? Probably not tested much.

At this point for me, If it's already there and being balanced might as well do PSD rods.

Clutch, yep what you said.
I like southbend. They peak at 425hp/900tq, shy of our 500hp.
Im going to do it though and see what happens.

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The psd rods and more/easier availability of psd performance internals was the main reason I wanted to know if the psd crank would function properly in the idi block. Plus I can run a larger clutch without the cost of a custom flywheel.

 

[hacked89]

Psd crank - no
Psd rods - modded and sold by R&D idi

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[Duke84]

Don't worry too much about the questions. High HP IDIs is not a topic that most of us are really familiar with. I learn something every time there's another thread about this subject. Plus, I am interested. A friend of mine was talking about building a first gen 7.3PSD. I told him that if he did that, I'd build a IDI. I don't know about him, but I still plan on my build. I also know a few Cummins fanboys who need to have their eyes opened a little bit.
As for the gas engines, the basics are pretty much the same as with a diesel. The ONLY way to get more power out of an engine is to burn more fuel. In order to do that, you also need to increase the oxygen (or air) so that you can burn all of the extra fuel. A BIG advantage to the IDIs is that the bottom end is really pretty strong already.

The last gasser I built is currently in my 88 Bronco. Started with a pre 72 460 block, cylinders bored 30 over, heads ported and polished then shaved 0.060. Larger valves and good cam (don't remember specs). Transmission is a 4 spd from an old dump truck. Unfortunately Bronco is not usable, blew all internals apart in rear axle as it said good bye and left the truck. Guy behind me was pissed, confused and impressed at same time. Lol

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

I’ve got some custom clutch kits I’m fixing to add to the store in a week or two once I get some inventory from sb that’ll be good for these higher power builds.

-13” single disk that’s a streetable hybrid material for 500hp/1000tq 27,000 lbs $1100
-13” full ceramic single disk (clutch is basically an on/off switch)550-600hp and 1200tq 30,000lbs $1300
-13” dual disk clutch masters street clutch 900hp/2000tq $2350
-13” dual disk clutch masters competition clutch 1300hp/2500tq $2500

Yay big power doesn't have to push a slushbox!

 

[Duke84]

Yeah those are my pumps, the 150 is really only good for low 400s, you’ll need over 300cc to reach your hp goals. You’ll need a custom big bore/big stroke pump to be pushing that kind of fuel.

I was wrong on what company I spoke with about IP. After asking a couple other questions and the info I have seen from you in so many threads your company is by far my first option. After looking into your big bore IP that is the one I'm most interested in. The way I plan on building this is in stages to eventuallybe running parallel turbos. So now my question is when the motor is built and ready for install would that IP be able to be adjusted down and usable N/A at first, then turned back up for addition of turbo? Also what would be the max rpm for governor?

 

[Laine D]

I’ve got some custom clutch kits I’m fixing to add to the store in a week or two once I get some inventory from sb that’ll be good for these higher power builds.

-13” single disk that’s a streetable hybrid material for 500hp/1000tq 27,000 lbs $1100
-13” full ceramic single disk (clutch is basically an on/off switch)550-600hp and 1200tq 30,000lbs $1300
-13” dual disk clutch masters street clutch 900hp/2000tq $2350
-13” dual disk clutch masters competition clutch 1300hp/2500tq $2500

That is going to be badass

 

[Thewespaul]

I was wrong on what company I spoke with about IP. After asking a couple other questions and the info I have seen from you in so many threads your company is by far my first option. After looking into your big bore IP that is the one I'm most interested in. The way I plan on building this is in stages to eventuallybe running parallel turbos. So now my question is when the motor is built and ready for install would that IP be able to be adjusted down and usable N/A at first, then turned back up for addition of turbo? Also what would be the max rpm for governor?

Each pump is a different beast, so far a 145cc pump is the largest I have been able to build and still have adjustment down to stock na fueling, so if you were wanting a big bore big fuel pump you would be best off planning on running at least 350-400hp of fueling from the start. I could probably get some adjustment below that but running one of biggest pumps on the market in a na application wouldn’t be my recommendation.