Coolant in oil after injector swap

Krector88

Registered User
Joined
May 12, 2021
Posts
3
Reaction score
0
Location
Licking, MO
Alright everyone, this is the last thing I have to resort to. This is my first experience with a diesel so please bare with me. So a few weeks ago I changed the injectors on my 1993 7.3 idi non turbo. While pulling out my old injectors the farthest one back on the driver's side was so stuck I had to use a 1/2" breaker bar with a cheater pipe and every bit of effort I could put into it for several turns. The new injector threaded in and tightened just as it should. Immediately after swapping my injectors my coolant started leaking off into my oil. From there I changed thermostat and after some research I rebuilt the oil cooler with new O rings and header gaskets. Neither before nor after servicing the oil cooler did I have any eternal leaks of oil or coolant. Before getting the truck to start and after the oil pressure got built back up my coolant continued to be added to my oil. This truck hasn't had 800 miles put on it in the past 5 years. Any ideas as too what I may have done wrong or possibilities of what else it could be would be greatly appreciated!
 

Cubey

Van dweller
Joined
Oct 18, 2017
Posts
4,118
Reaction score
1,614
Location
USA
Sounds like a head gasket problem, given what you did. You may have damaged the head gasket, warped the head, or stretched head bolts from using the breaker bar and cheater.
 

Krector88

Registered User
Joined
May 12, 2021
Posts
3
Reaction score
0
Location
Licking, MO
Sounds like a head gasket problem, given what you did. You may have damaged the head gasket, warped the head, or stretched head bolts from using the breaker bar and cheater.
I was afraid of that. But where does the coolant tie into the top of the head where the injectors are? Seems to me they just go directly into the top of the cylinder wall
 

Scotty4

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2019
Posts
1,117
Reaction score
1,081
Location
Franklin County, Massachusetts
I was afraid of that. But where does the coolant tie into the top of the head where the injectors are? Seems to me they just go directly into the top of the cylinder wall
The coolant runs through the jackets in the head. I think what he is getting at is if you put undue stress on the head in one direction you may have warped or moved it.
 

Krector88

Registered User
Joined
May 12, 2021
Posts
3
Reaction score
0
Location
Licking, MO
The coolant runs through the jackets in the head. I think what he is getting at is if you put undue stress on the head in one direction you may have warped or moved it.
So I guess that's possible just by removing the injector? I know the water jackets are in the head, I just wasn't sure or not if they got anywhere near the injector or not.
 

Big Bart

Tow&Slow
Joined
Dec 22, 2020
Posts
1,481
Reaction score
951
Location
Newport Beach, CA
Krector 88,

These trucks are getting old and likely your head gasket was already on its way out. Cranking on the head likely was all it took to squeeze it or crack it to a point of failure. You did nothing wrong, just had to deal with a problem that appears to have created another problem.

You possibly could have cracked the head but I have never heard of that happening from an injector or glow plug on this or other forums. But if the head had a hairline crack cranking on it could have made it worse.

If you are confident you did the oil cooler correctly and you feel the bottom end is still in good shape. Then you should pull both heads, have a machine shop check for cracks and bad valves, replace the valve seals at a minimum and reinstall the head with new head bolts. Also chase out the head bolt holes. This forum is 50/50 on if easier to pull the engine or do them in the vehicle. I think a lot has to do with your experience, working conditions, and tools available. IE do you have a heavy duty cherry picker and engine stand to pull it and work on it. Do you have a clean space inside to work or just a dusty old barn with a dirt floor. Or do you have a buddy who can help pull and replace the hood and heads while the engine is in the truck to make the job easier.

Just some other things to consider. If you did the water pump recently a couple bolts go through into the engine chamber and require silicon or other sealant or can leak coolant into the block. If coolant, rain, water is leaking onto the top of the engine it can get in from places like your cdr valve grommet. These trucks suffer from cavitation if wrong coolant is used and can get a hole from the cooling jacket into a cylinder and leak coolant into the motor. These cases are rare but something to look at when the heads are off. Based on your story I doubt this applies to you.

Also keep in mind doing the heads is some work and money but you will have cleaned up a bunch of other issues (Exhaust gaskets, valve cover gaskets, intake gaskets, glow plug inspection, etc.) and made the truck more reliable. You likely will have higher compression and more power if any valve work is done.

We all have to keep in mind diesels are not cheap to buy or repair but once repaired they are stronger and more durable than gassers.

Sorry to hear about your woes and let us know the outcome.
 

Big Bart

Tow&Slow
Joined
Dec 22, 2020
Posts
1,481
Reaction score
951
Location
Newport Beach, CA
Krector 88,

These trucks are getting old and likely your head gasket was already on its way out. Cranking on the head likely was all it took to squeeze it or crack it to a point of failure. You did nothing wrong, just had to deal with a problem that appears to have created another problem.

You possibly could have cracked the head but I have never heard of that happening from an injector or glow plug on this or other forums. But if the head had a hairline crack cranking on it could have made it worse.

If you are confident you did the oil cooler correctly and you feel the bottom end is still in good shape. Then you should pull both heads, have a machine shop check for cracks and bad valves, replace the valve seals at a minimum and reinstall the head with new head bolts. Also chase out the head bolt holes. This forum is 50/50 on if easier to pull the engine or do them in the vehicle. I think a lot has to do with your experience, working conditions, and tools available. IE do you have a heavy duty cherry picker and engine stand to pull it and work on it. Do you have a clean space inside to work or just a dusty old barn with a dirt floor. Or do you have a buddy who can help pull and replace the hood and heads while the engine is in the truck to make the job easier.

Just some other things to consider. If you did the water pump recently a couple bolts go through into the engine chamber and require silicon or other sealant or can leak coolant into the block. If coolant, rain, water is leaking onto the top of the engine it can get in from places like your cdr valve grommet. These trucks suffer from cavitation if wrong coolant is used and can get a hole from the cooling jacket into a cylinder and leak coolant into the motor. These cases are rare but something to look at when the heads are off. Based on your story I doubt this applies to you.

Also keep in mind doing the heads is some work and money but you will have cleaned up a bunch of other issues (Exhaust gaskets, valve cover gaskets, intake gaskets, glow plug inspection, etc.) and made the truck more reliable. You likely will have higher compression and more power if any valve work is done.

We all have to keep in mind diesels are not cheap to buy or repair but once repaired they are stronger and more durable than gassers.

Sorry to hear about your woes and let us know the outcome.
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
91,287
Posts
1,129,810
Members
24,101
Latest member
dieselmainiac

Members online

No members online now.
Top