there isn't a "race" aircooled VW without one.Question:
Would there be any gain if I added a oil/trans cooler with a fan, mounted to the frame on the oil return line? I'm all about trying to cool everything down some more. Would I gain some oil cooling?
Few more pics.
On the agenda this week is to get the oil lines made up. I'm hoping by end of week the N/A Y pipe I got from towcat will arrive. Then the following week turbo gets plumbed and in operation.
We had to redo the wastegate actuator, and it works like a champ now. 15-16 psi gets me complete control of the vanes from closed all the way to open which is 26cm. . I'll be using a $20 adjustable boost controller in the cab for the fine Adjustments.
That's looking good man. So the wastegate is full open at 16psi then? Also, does that mean you are keeping the Ats turbo up top too? That would be one quick spooling setup. What are you going to use for oil pressure back to the engine? A stock lift pump? Also, are you going to use a blow off valve at all for when your engine slows down quickly to prevent turbo chatter? And what is your max psi for the setup? Are you still thinking 20-22psi? But anyway sorry about the questions. I'm really excited to see you get it done and look forward to how it performs.
No, ATS turbo goes bye bye. Yea the gate opens the turbo vanes all the way at 16psi. Ill need the boost controller to tone down the vanes becausetheir is no way ill build boost with the vanes all the way open.
I believe the engine itself will provide sufficient oil pressure to the turbo. The lift pump will serve as the scavenge pump bringing oil back to the pan.
I'm un decided on whether a blow off valve is needed. I plan to try controlling the release speed with a spring for starters. I'm still un-studded, so I plan to keep it under 15psi.
You need to get some studs on that thing already so you can really see what it does when it is on. And as for the return spring, that could be the answer. You would just have to find the right spring tension and dial it in. if that doesn't work, a BOV is always good. Even if it doesn't do it all the time. And the boost controller will definitely help with spool up too.
I was also thinking about it, when you redyno it, you can set up a lockout switch to lock the converter from the get go. It will help with your torque reading. Also, where are you going to pipe the air filter from?
I can lock up the converter anytime I want now
Air filter under the bed, its an AEM filter with a water sock. Yes, when studs come, engine comes out to do it, and Russ's cam in place.
What did you do to lock your torque converter? A switch? And how much CFM will the AEM filter flow? Are you planning on adding studs soon or is that a ways down the road?
Anyway, I bet you will love Vgt. I'm betting that the way you have it set that it will spool pretty well after you tune it up... I want to get one on mine as soon as I get my SC setup done. That will give me so much low end that it will be awesome. Plus good top end power too. I thought I might be the first to do it but you beat me to it.
Yes Mystery switch.
The AEM Filter flows 1100 CFM @ 1.5" of water, according to the AEM engineer I spoke with.
Studs: I'm up in the air. Its not an immediate plan. I'm losing interest in more bombing and have other projects garnering my attention now. Studs will most likely happen when I pop a gasket, or this summer when we decide to take it out on longer range vacations w/ thee 5ver and I can't stomach the thought of being stranded in some po-dunk town that could solve a head gaskett problem.
I'm also eager to see how the HE351ve does. If I was a betting man, I'd wager if I wanted too, i could make it produce 4-6 psi at idle (but would be very constricted) My goal remains the same as when i started this thread. Get good boost well below 2k rpms, where all the torque is in this motor. For me and how I drive and tow, I'll be happy as can be if I can use the available torque downlow without belching smoke or uncontrollable EGTs. If I can attain this I think I'll have a 500 rw torque IDI that remains reliable, and pulls the type of loads I pull and be respectable doing it. Not everyone on here gets it, pulling in the Rockies is brutal, especially on the canyon roads we frequent.