Clutch slave bleeding problems

[Exekiel69]

Hey guys, long time again, hope all are well.
A buddy of mine as asked me for some help with His 94 DI ford with a ZF manual transmission. The original slave cylinder cracked and he bought the complete assembly broke the plastic clip holding the rod when installing it and now has almost no movement on the rod. There is a bleeding pin so I had him push the pedal by hand (very soft wont come back) several times and I would open the pin but we made no progress after several attempts, I seem to remember Kalvin did an article on this but anyways I think there are two problems here, one we can't seem to get movement from the rod even bleeding it and I also think he bought the wrong master and slave assembly since it looks like the one I used to have on my IDI but regardless it should still move. I'm at a loss here, should we just get another clutch master/slave kit? I've done several and never had this much trouble.

Thanks.

 

[jwalterus]

master/slave bleeding =

There is a bleeding pin so I had him push the pedal by hand (very soft wont come back) several times and I would open the pin but we made no progress after several attempts.

It's still full of air, I got mine started (to the point I had minimal pedal available) by pulling vacuum in the system from the top by sticking a vac hose into the reservoir with a rubber pointed nozzle into the port in the bottom, draw vac submerged, then pulling out the hose so the fluid could be drawn into the system.
























That SOB was my first serious PITA one, took almost 2 weeks of working with it before the thing was acceptable..................

 

[riotwarrior]

Think ther is tech 101 on this

 

[IDIoit]

bleeding pin?
the roll pin keeps the line in place, there should be a allen bleeder right after that.
if you did not use the allen, youre letting lots of air back in.

 

[Exekiel69]

Yes I called it pin but it is in fact a Allen screw. I though after many times it would start making progress I've done a few already but this one does not make progress other than an inch of travel and never really gets to push any harder. I even tried pulling it out turn it where the air would go to the bleeding screw and then open it while putting pressure on the rod to push the air out but I still can't get much travel out of it. To make it worst I'm not sure he ordered the right one for the yealin he has (94 DI) but it should still push the link, a clutch is a clutch. Where is Towcat?

 

[IDIoit]

I always have my son pump it 10x, and then hold it to the floor. while I crack it open
and I tell him not to go easy on it.
a ZF5 is a ZF5, no matter what its bolted to.
they are a *******, im curious why they don't have a typical brake bleeder on it,
oah wait...CHINA.
that said, I believe he has the correct one, but it may be defective?

hows the master push rod? does it have a good nylon bushing?
is the pin on the pedal assembly worn?

if youre not getting full throw, you will never get that thing to bleed.

 

[Exekiel69]

The pedal is too soft to pump it the normal way, he can easily pump it by hand (all parts are now new he bought the entire master/slave kit and the pedal is working fine) several times then hold it for me to crack the screw open enough to blow some fluid then do it all over again but we cant get it to start pushing any more than it has which is just to the lever and never gains enough strength to push harder.

 

[F350camper]

Hi Ez good to see you around! one thing I have tried is blocking the slave movement with a piece of 2x4 to give you some resistance. Then it feels more like bleeding brakes.

 

[junk]

Used to be the guys talked about removing the slave from the mount. Keep the bleeder closed. Push it against the frame or transmission. It moves a lot of fluid and pumps up much quicker then. Basically pushing air out the slave by pumping it VS the master.

Heath and towcat both have discussed this method if I remember right. I think it's even in a ford service manual.

Good luck.

 

[TahoeTom]

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?72014-slave-cylinder-won-t-bleed
Check out this thread.

 

[Agnem]

The problem is the air is stuck in the line, and there is not enough travel in the slave to move the fluid the whole way. You basically have an air bubble in the line that is just moving back and forth and not leaving ever.

 

[Leroy]

NOTE .. if you screwed up .. and somehow introduced
air into the line . this is the remedy .. put a little bit
of brake fluid into the 1/2 gal jug .. now wedge the jug
between the frame rail and the spring .. or above the
shaft .. however it fits .. then drop the line to the
bottom of the container and into the fluid therin ..

now go press the clutch pedal in and out
a dozen times .. what this does is suck fluid back up
while purging the air out .. after a few pumps you'll
have straight fluid in there .. then go back to make
sure the slave is primed . and then connect them
back up with as little air in between as possible ..

http://fordfab.com/throw.out.bearing.html