Clutch Question,

Double-S-Diesel

parts seller
Joined
Mar 8, 2005
Posts
2,520
Reaction score
77
Location
derry pa
pull the slave cylinder off of the trans.
remove the cap from the resovior, make sure resivor is full and remains full.
hold slave at 45 degree angle with line at top, push rod in and out.
do this till ya hear no air.
reinstall slave the cap resivior.
 

swampdigger

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2006
Posts
436
Reaction score
0
Location
usa
I got my truck outta the shop! Just doing some clutch adjustments now. I was surprised not to see a bleeder screw. Thanks for your tip Double-S! I'm pretty sure I got all the air worked outta 'er.

I can see where all this concern about the bushings and firewall come into now! Without a bushing, it adds almost an inch of free travel in the clutch pedal!

My rod moves nearly 3/8"s of an inch before it contacts the piston in the master, which adds a few more inches of travel. At least on the bright side, after you get through all the free travel, and start pushing the master, I can see my clutch fork activate! WOO HOO!!

I'm going to the boneyard to get an adjustable push rod now, which will hopefully take out some of the slack. Get a new busing too...

Where do the firewalls crack on these bad boys? Is it right around the clutch master?
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
91,333
Posts
1,130,532
Members
24,136
Latest member
m2rtin

Members online

Top