Clutch Question,

[Darrin Tosh]

I picked up a 97 F250 4x4 5 speed with 46K. I know it is a PSD but the question is relevant weather it is an IDI or PSD,..

So, It needed a hydralic line from the master to the slave cylnder. We got that repaced, and bled it out, but the problem is the clutch kicks in at the very bottom of the throw. almost not disengaging. It makes it hard to shift. It is like I need another 1/2 inch for it to feel correct.

Has anyone ran in to this before?

Thanks!

 

[sle2115]

Yes, that is how mine acted. It was the dreaded cracked firewall. Not sure if this was still a problem in 97 or not. Will have to look up the TSB on my puter.

 

[towcat]

darrin-
from what I've seen, the 92-97OBS trucks made two steps foward in the firewall issues by redesigning the dash structure making it more rigid, but took one step back by putting in a sheet metal bracket where the pot metal on the older trucks used to be. if the hole gets worn, it becomes egged and the plastic bushing fails quickly. Take a look under the dash and work the clutch pedal, you'd prolly see a fair amount of movement on the pivot arm to the master.
good luck!

 

[sle2115]

Mine did that as well, but I assumed it was from the cracked firewall. Good to see they improved that part of things.

 

[towcat]

Mine did that as well, but I assumed it was from the cracked firewall. Good to see they improved that part of things.

80-86 and 87-91 were notorious for that problem. 92-97 is a completely different animal under the dash.

 

[metrojd]

Clutch

Darin,
I second the bushing.
I have also seen some that have an adjustable rod comming out of the Master.
Good Luck
John

 

[sle2115]

My father in laws truck, 92 F150 300 6 cyl. will no longer disengage at all. I put a slave cylinder in it at 100,000 and it now has about 215,000 on it. He has had at least 10 sets of those bushings put in. I get to work on it now, I hate to even look under there!!!

 

[TLBREWER]

Darrin

I had the same problem on my '92. Towcat nailed it. Dash structure improved. Pedal "cage" material improved. However, the new mild steel cage is harder on the plastic bushings. Once they wear out and thru, the hardened steel cross-shaft elongates the hole in the cage above the accelerator, which is a high stress point. Now there is enough play that the clutch may not work at all. Look under there with a flashlight and push the clutch down by hand. You can probably see the end of the shaft move 1/4" or more before any rotation. You can replace the cage or weld the hole up and re-drill it to fit a new bushing, which is what I did. Worked good as new after that until I sold it. The last time I bought one, the cross-shaft bushing kit was about $15 and the snap on bushing for the master cylinder to pedal was about $13. Both Ford only parts. But without them, truck no go nowhere. Don't know the price on the steel '92-97 pedal cages, but the pot metal ones for the '87-91 trucks are about $90...last time I bought one.

Tom

 

[TLBREWER]

Oh yea. When I put the new cross-shaft bushings in, I use dry graphite for lube. Works great and cuts down on "gunk" getting in there and causing wear.

Tom

 

[geonc]

I picked up a 97 F250 4x4 5 speed with 46K

find Darrin

Those pesky, usless as boobs on a nun plastic bushings that Ferd sells for $7 bucks a pop are NOT of Ferds better idees ...sadly when most find that worn, the pot metal shaft is buggard enough to eat 4 of those bushings a year...if not more

There is a permanent fix for that very similiar to the heim joint mod for the bricks and early OBS styles.

Our fire walls are radically stronger and if you look to the drivers side you will see a massive alloy strut

I simply involves using a dremel to cut the eye at the end of the shaft and install the new joint with self locking nuts.....now to sift thru my junk and find the link...was on flea bay.........

 

[Double-S-Diesel]

sounds like there is still air in the system, did ya follow proper bleeding, there is a trick to it.

 

[Darrin Tosh]

Thanks for the info,

I took a look under the dash and cant really see any play in the bushing, however when I have my foot on the brake and run the clutch I can feel the brake petal twisting a little, like there may be some play there. The bushings don't look like fun to replace either.

I read someware that there is an adjustable rod for the master cylnder, does anyone know about that possibility?

Nick,
As far as bleading, I believe that is correctly done, my mechanic has done this on quite a few Fords, What is the trick? I know that it is a long prcess, and he said he ran a full resevor through the line while bleeding.

I will check on it more tomorrow.

Thanks again,
Darrin

 

[swampdigger]

Yeah, there are adjustable rods available. I have been told though that you cannot replace the rod once it's been installed in the master cylinder. Apparently there's a clip that holds it in, and trying to separate the rod usually results in breakage

 

[LUCKY_LARUE60]

I picked up a 97 F250 4x4 5 speed with 46K. I know it is a PSD but the question is relevant weather it is an IDI or PSD,..

So, It needed a hydraulic line from the master to the slave cylinder. We got that repaced, and bled it out, but the problem is the clutch kicks in at the very bottom of the throw. almost not disengaging. It makes it hard to shift. It is like I need another 1/2 inch for it to feel correct.

Has anyone ran in to this before?

Thanks!

Mine did the very same thing, I checked everything and decided that it was the master cylinder, replaced it and all is good now.

Jim

 

[Agnem]

If it was working ok before the parts change, then it is just an air problem. Most times, I find that when you think it's bled, it's really not. Try doing the bleding over, but put the truck in different positions, like setting the front wheels on ramps, and then turn it around and put the back on the ramps.