clutch acting up, any advice?

[Runningaford]

I've searched the topic, and am trying to pinpoint the issue. About a year ago, I rebuilt the clutch cross pin shaft, and installed the heim joint to the end of the master cylinder arm. Today while in traffic, the clutch pedal spring stuck the pedal to the floor; no clutch, so I took a page from Typ4, and shut it down, started it up in 1st, and floated it into gear until I could get safely out of the traffic.

Once stopped, I noted the heim joint had fallen off the end of the master cylinder arm; the little allen set screw was gone(I've got no idea how long that's been gone). When I changed over to the heim, I cut the arm right at the 'original eye' portion of the arm, so it wasn't cut too short to begin with.

After putting the heim back on the shaft, it seemed like the master cylinder arm was 'barely' seating into the heim, and actually fell off a couple more times on the way home; wash rinse repeat with getting out of traffic.

By home, with the Heim still on, it's almost impossible to get into gear while running; turned off it'll go right in, and with the engine off, and in gear, it'll hold the truck from rolling.

I read that I should have a 1/2" travel in the slave cylinder arm, and am off to check for that now. The slave cylinder 'area' is wet, but I'm not sure it's not just diesel, or oil, or brake fluid.

My thoughts are that I need to get the master cylinder/slave cylinder 'bled' kit, but just not really sure. What else should I try looking for, or inspecting as another cause of the issue? With the heim on, and depressing the clutch, it feels like I'm missing about 2" of positive engagement on the clutch pedal.

Thanks In Advance


EDIT TO ADD: I do have around a 1/2" travel in the slave cylinder. Could it be the pressure plate, or more so the throw out bearing? Something feels stuck. I can put it in gear while stopped now, but it's somewhat difficult; whether it's 1st, 2nd, or reverse.

 

[franklin2]

Get someone to push the clutch while you watch the firewall area around the clutch master. It likes to crack and break the spot welds in that area, and it makes the master ****-eyed and the rod doesn't line up right. Not to mention all the lost motion from the firewall moving instead of the rod pushing the fluid in the master.

 

[Runningaford]

Get someone to push the clutch while you watch the firewall area around the clutch master. It likes to crack and break the spot welds in that area, and it makes the master ****-eyed and the rod doesn't line up right. Not to mention all the lost motion from the firewall moving instead of the rod pushing the fluid in the master.

Thank you for your reply.

Didn't think the firewall was an issue on an OBS, but I did check, and am getting about 1/8" flex upwards on the master cylinder. The slave cylinder travel though, does look to be moving around 1/2". In searching how far the slave cylinder, it looks like around a 1/2" is the correct amount of travel, or is that not correct?

Edit to add: There's no grinding involved, and cannot audibly hear any loading, but to put the truck in gear at a stop, whether it's 1st, or reverse, it seems to take quite a bit more pressure than I'm used. There's no grinding. Is this ok?

 

[Runningaford]

Update: My problem was apparently the aftermarket Heim joint I installed on the end of the master cylinder shaft/bolt. It wasn't quite in line, and I'm actually not sure that I like how it fits even now; I'm thinking I'll end up looking for a different longer Heim, or weld an extension onto the end of it to better line up the master cylinder shaft.

As it is, I replaced the master cylinder, and slave cylinder kit that was already bled. I read many suggestions on how to install it; the issue being how to get the slave cylinder to 'fit' into it's bracket, and also with the cylinder rod into the arm coming out of the transmission.

It came with the silly 'hold em' strap to keep the arm retracted, but that was still about a half inch out too far to fit into the bracket. I couldn't figure out how to get it depressed any further; I ended up using a ratchet strap attached to one of the frame cross members, and then attached the other end to the arm coming out of the transmission. I just ratcheted it back about the half inch needed.

I didn't read anyone else doing that, but it worked well, and solved the issue of getting the slave cylinder in place.