Check your wheel bearings!

[NO_SPRK]

Stupid me rebuilds and checks damn near everything on my CCLB. Now passenger side hub has a "click" worth of freeplay.

Loud bearings making phantom noise on highway.

Inner bearing refused to cooperate so slide hammer and in the end my grinder comes out to play.

Lock nut on spindle that ford specs 160-200lbs is hand tight. Spindle nut size is 2 1/2"

No damage to the truck but my wallet and pride is a little hurt.

$70 later new inner and outer bearings & races, including hub seal that my parts guy first tried to hold back in favor of a inner axle seal...

momma didnt raise no fool. He drives a new civic but he is a iraq vet so I know he's driven the big toys.

FYI I hand pack bearings but decided to try this Lisle $10 bearing packer that uses a zerk fitting. JUNK!

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Ready to go back in

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And my "power train" mile marker locking hub broke. See pics. I contacted them yesterday so hopefully I can get a replacement part.

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[chris142]

According to ford we need the black moly grease. You used red. I dont know how much it matters.

 

[icanfixall]

I found a steel wheel bearing greaser many years ago that looks like what you show there. Might try placing the bearing the other way on the greaser too. Mine works great every time. you do have to press down on the top piece to force the grease to flow out thru the bearing. After I'm done I always run the bearing in my hand to insure the grease is everywhere. Thats just for insurance and allows me to sleep better at nite...

 

[HammerDown]

I have and use one of those plastic cone-bearing packers...no complaints here, works fine for me.
BTW it does matter how the bearing is loaded between the top and bottom halves...the pic above is correct.
Of course for old bearings, I always remove the old grease first vs pushing the old out with the new.

 

[towcat]

According to ford we need the black moly grease. You used red. I dont know how much it matters.

i've used Kendall blue and the (unknown heavy truck source red) for years. "IF" we ever have a wet winter around here ever again, those two types of grease protect your bearings and joints longer than the black moly ever will when it comes to your truck going for a light swim. my idea of a light swim is submerged up to the door sills.

 

[NO_SPRK]

According to ford we need the black moly grease. You used red. I dont know how much it matters.

Its a dana axle so fords word goes second to dana.

The only moly grease that is worth a damn is honda-moly. I ride BMW motorcycles and the older ones required REAL moly grease on the driveshaft spines.

The moly content in the typical lube is very low.

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[NO_SPRK]

I tried flipping the bearing upside down also. I tried moving it several times.

Im also using a lincoln cordless electric grease gun. Not sure if that matters.

It may be the plastic deflecting and loosing the seal

I found a steel wheel bearing greaser many years ago that looks like what you show there. Might try placing the bearing the other way on the greaser too. Mine works great every time. you do have to press down on the top piece to force the grease to flow out thru the bearing. After I'm done I always run the bearing in my hand to insure the grease is everywhere. Thats just for insurance and allows me to sleep better at nite...

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[chris142]

I have always used the black moly grease ford says we need. After 20k i had to pull a wheel to get to a ujoint and the bearings were almost dry. If you guys think its ok ill try another type next time.

 

[HammerDown]

The EP-moly grease I've used in the past was very thick and sticky, but it did seem to 'dry out' in short time.
For that reason I don't use it anymore.

For many years I was a user of Kendall Super Blue, last time I used it, it bled oil like crazy!

Been using Lucas Red & Tacky...HOWEVER...I just discovered Mystik greases, very good reviews and seems to have a little more body vs the Lucas.

 

[The Warden]

I have always used the black moly grease ford says we need. After 20k i had to pull a wheel to get to a ujoint and the bearings were almost dry. If you guys think its ok ill try another type next time.

Last time I had to do bearing on my truck, I used Amsoil synthetic...that was about 8 1/2 years ago, and it's been fine so far I spend enough time on boat ramps that I need to use a grease that's salt water resistant...

 

[HammerDown]

I tried flipping the bearing upside down also. I tried moving it several times.

Im also using a lincoln cordless electric grease gun. Not sure if that matters.

It may be the plastic deflecting and loosing the seal

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In your picture the bearing is installed properly and the bearing packer is performing as it should.
The 'new' grease is forced out the BOTTOM of the bearing > don't expect much if any grease to exit the roller sides.
If that bearing was installed the other way, grease may NOT go 'through' the bearing, but just exit the top.