Carrier Pump Group Buy

Clb

Another old truck
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Why?
It's not like we do 1/4 mile or crazy angle offroad?!
Just curious.

Or the other hand' smartazz
 

79jasper

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Off road guys don't use sumps often. Lol
For us psd guys it's easier than trying to enlarge the sender lines. Lol

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 

rpm427

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The question remains on the 40222 pump the pressure is 9-11.5lbs so is the timing going up when stock pump pressure is suppose to be 5-7lbs?
 

OLDBULL8

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Yeah. But to answer your question with another question. What is your pressure coming out of your filter?
 

lude and rude

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everything i have seen on the 40222 pump tells me its the right one. i have seen the other lower pressure pump cause some funky issues were it seems like its starving out on fuel. you can actually watch the fuel bowl level suck down on the low psi pump but not on the higher one. just my .02 cents
 

sjwelds

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^^concur. I have the 40222 and I see 7 psi after the filter, which I think is perfect. You do lose some pressure through the filter. Make sure to check the pressure with the engine running.
 

crash-harris

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My 40222 pushes about 7-7.5 psi at idle and about 4 psi at WOT. Readings are at the filter head.

And yes, increased fuel pressure on the IP advances the internal timing plunger in the IP.
 

rpm427

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The 40222 has no plug,40223 comes with plug and the 40237 all show same fuel pressure but the 40237 is a 24V wired pump and would have better components inside versus the 12V pumps I'm told?
 
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Clb

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Are we reinventing the thread???
Agnem has a primer on pump pressure vs timing
 

Garbage_Mechan

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My experience with this pump is that in all aspects it is heavy duty designed for diesel and logevity However, it was also designed for a 4 cylinder ****** engine and it barely able to keep positive pressure under a sustained hard pull under boost making 4 or 6 times the horse power it was designed for. I was able to improve this some by regulating (instead of a fixed orfice) the return flow by using a Swadgelok adjustable check valve set to crack at 8 psi. Now it ony dops to between 3 and 4 at WOT. Not much reserve pump capacity. Thinking about running 2 in paralell for redundancy or some other pump.
 

FORDF250HDXLT

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7.3L IDI Turbo Diesel Engine Performance Specifications
Engine Model A-185, A-166
Number of Cylinders 8
Configuration OHV V8
Bore 104.39 mm (4.11 inch)
Stroke 106.20 mm (4.18 inch)
Displacement 7.3 Liters (444 cu inch)
Crankshaft Rotation (Viewed from
Flywheel End of Engine) Counterclockwise
Compression Ratio 21.5:1
Firing Order 1-2-7-3-4-5-6-8
Idle Speed (No Load)* 650 rpm ± 50 rpm
Governor Speed (No Load) 3660 ± 50 rpm
Governor Speed (Full Load Rated) 3000 rpm
Timing (Dynamic) 8.5 ± 2 Degrees BTDC
Injection Pump Stanadyne DB-2
Injection Nozzle
Opening Pressure (New) 13,100 ± 517 kPa (1,900 ± 75 psi)
Opening Pressure (Minimum) 9,998 kPa (1,450 psi)
Crankcase Pressure-No Load (Maximum) 20 kPa (6 in-H2O) @ 3000 rpm
Fuel Pressure (Filter Inlet) 14 kPa (2 psi) @ idle
Fuel Pressure (Filter Outlet) 7 kPa (1 psi) @ 3000 rpm

Fuel Pump Suction 20 kPa (6 in. H2O) @ 3000 rpm
Fuel Return Line Pressure 14 kPa (2 psi) @ 3000 rpm
Valve Lifter 0
Valve Lash
Engine Lube Oil Pressure
Low Idle, Minimum 69 kPa (10 psi)
(Engine at Operating Temperature) 276-482 kPa (40-70 psi)
Crankcase Capacity (Without Filter) 8.5 L (9 qt.)
Crankcase Capacity (With Filter) 9.5 L (10 qt.)
Thermostat Opening Temperature 89°C (192°F)
* Manual transmission in NEUTRAL position. Automatic transmission in DRIVE position.
 

Garbage_Mechan

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Yes those are the specs for fuel pressure for a stock 185 horse engine. Good for a totally stock truck. So are stock exhaust, stock fuel pump settings, stock tires, stock NA (no turbo) and a host of other things we commonly improve on these trucks.

To be clear I'm not looking for high pressure. I totally get the timing relations ship issue.

However I'm looking for volume and making sure there is no way the injection pump ever sees negative pressure (vacuum) at the fuel inlet. Because there needs to be fuel flow for cooling and lube. There has too be return flow to cool and lube the pump. So making 250-300 horsepower turbocharged requires more care to keep pump from starving. Another interesting factor is that there is a fixed orfice in the return line. So there is always a balance going on between the volume generated by the lift pump, the amount of fuel burned, and the amount returning to the tanks. With the fuel pump on but engine not started, fuel is flowing through the return orfice and the pressure generated is a balance between the PSI the pump makes and the amount returning to the tanks. The balance will be fuel psi under no load.

Try this, Turn on the garden hose with no nozzle or fitings attached. Hight volume low pressure. Now put your finger over the end resticing the flow. Now the pressure goes up.
 

Macrobb

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Just want to point out my own experience with a mechanical lift pump on my '93 with factory turbo, and RD2-110:
Measured after the filter, I saw 4 PSI at idle, 3 at WOT, and it stayed within that range the whole time I was driving.

Considering how stable that pressure is, I'd say that's what we should be aiming for here - and it might be as simple as getting a bigger, high pressure pump and putting a large return-type regulator on it regulated to 2-4 PSI or so. That way you just return a ton of fuel at idle and less at WOT, but keep a steady(low) pressure. As an added benefit, keeping a decent return amount will also keep the lift pump cool and keep the fuel cool as well.
 

Clb

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If your searching this far back , you should know these did not work out for those of us towing nor the big i.p. guys.
Run fast, buy something else.
Mine still ran my 93, sadley but ran it.
Some guys are still getting satisfactory service life from one.
Mine sets on the shelf next to an empty holley red box.
 
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