Can an alternator electrically be destroyed by the engine?

[Dirtleg]

Yes, but sometimes necessary

Good to see you Russ.

What he said. I am running my original 93' Ford alternator with 280k miles on it. I did have to replace the internal regulator once about 10 years ago. But it is replaceable so no aftermarket parts store alternator required to fix it.

I am sure shipping to Germany plus 19% tax won't cost you the $300 it seems you are having to spend each time you have an issue.

My .02.

 

[derjackistweg]

Good to see you Russ.

What he said. I am running my original 93' Ford alternator with 280k miles on it. I did have to replace the internal regulator once about 10 years ago. But it is replaceable so no aftermarket parts store alternator required to fix it.

I am sure shipping to Germany plus 19% tax won't cost you the $300 it seems you are having to spend each time you have an issue.

My .02.

Hi,

300$ is the 165A Alternator from Rockauto inkl. tax + shipment.

I tried to replace the regulator on the defect one but had no luck.
Plus I don´t know how to fit the cole (???) things with the coils attached. They jump all over the place when I want to fit the regulator in its place.

 

[derjackistweg]

Hi @ all,

just out of curiosity - before I wanted to replace the 5tkm Alternator - I started the engine again.

And what happend? Correct: It charged, again. I drove the truck 2-times 20 miles. Charged.

BUT: It still charges partly way to high! The highest jump I have seen was 15,8V. Just for a split second. But it usually jumps from 13,4 or so to 15,5v and inbetween. Not heathy and not what I know from the 2 previous ones.


So again: I anyone knows a reason why this type of alternator can stop charging, let me know. (ecxept for bat. and cables)

 

[Cant Write]

Did you see the voltage jumping with the original alternator? Do you still have the original?

Can you put a meter on the battery terminals (analog) and watch the needle jump just to verify?

It sounds like a regulator problem, but is the trigger wire corroded/broken/intermittent where the alternator goes to full charge and will burn itself up?

Are the brushes potentially arching and causing havoc on the diodes or regulator?

Is the wiring harness original or been hacked up by a previous owner?

 

[BeastMaster]

What did my alternator in was the main contacts on the glow plug relay.

Even with the coil disconnected, they still erratically connected the 200,+ amp glow plug load.

This was discovered after premature replacement of the battery, twice, as the malfunction was erratic and wasn't showing up until I suspected this scenario and was watching it with a meter.

The 140 amp alternator, trying to hold 14.2 volts or so on a battery loaded with over 200 amps took the alternator out within a few days. Fried the terminal right off the back. The windings had been pretty hot just to look at them.

Incidentally, a brand new glow plug controller did the same thing.

That's when I bit the bullet and rewired to manual control with a White-Rodgers industrial contactor

That was about two years ago. Not a hint of my old woe resurfacing, as by now I know exactly what to look for...unexpected wags of the voltmeter, and my Carter electric fuel pump having erratic pitch. 200 amps on the battery rail is quite a load, as I can hear the pitch change that even the turn blinkers cause. Yes, it's a loud fuel pump.

If you suspect this, you have to disconnect the big 6 gauge wire from the glow plug relay to see if the unexpected voltmeter wagging goes away. Disconnecting the relay coil was inconclusive, as mine was failing regardless of coil current

Should you try this, I will suggest disconnecting both battery negatives first. That glow plug feed comes directly from the battery rail. Insulate it well and guarantee it won't see ground. I wrapped mine in bubble wrap and stuffed it in a toilet paper tube to make sure it wouldn't touch anything.

If you are still getting unexpected wags, this wasn't it. All I can figure out is that one company is making these relays, others are reselling then under their brand, and someone changed the manufacturing method. As I had experienced the same identical problem on two different brands

 

[derjackistweg]

Did you see the voltage jumping with the original alternator? Do you still have the original?

no, of course not.

Can you put a meter on the battery terminals (analog) and watch the needle jump just to verify?

I own only electronic ones. All are working great - there is not a false reading

It sounds like a regulator problem, but is the trigger wire corroded/broken/intermittent where the alternator goes to full charge and will burn itself up?

Probably a regulator problem. On a brand new alternator??? How plausible is that?

Are the brushes potentially arching and causing havoc on the diodes or regulator?

Is the wiring harness original or been hacked up by a previous owner?

All new and yes of course it was an ambulance. But it worked 29 years so far.

 

[derjackistweg]

Hi all,

so as I do not like the voltage to jump so high I made the move and replaced this new alternator with the 2. new alternator.

And like I said: I need to know the electronic part of it!

The brand new alternator is not charging.

So how plausible is that? 2 brand new alternator not or not correctly working.

Anyone a wiring diagram, that helps?

 

[derjackistweg]

What did my alternator in was the main contacts on the glow plug relay.

Even with the coil disconnected, they still erratically connected the 200,+ amp glow plug load.

This was discovered after premature replacement of the battery, twice, as the malfunction was erratic and wasn't showing up until I suspected this scenario and was watching it with a meter.

The 140 amp alternator, trying to hold 14.2 volts or so on a battery loaded with over 200 amps took the alternator out within a few days. Fried the terminal right off the back. The windings had been pretty hot just to look at them.

Incidentally, a brand new glow plug controller did the same thing.

That's when I bit the bullet and rewired to manual control with a White-Rodgers industrial contactor

That was about two years ago. Not a hint of my old woe resurfacing, as by now I know exactly what to look for...unexpected wags of the voltmeter, and my Carter electric fuel pump having erratic pitch. 200 amps on the battery rail is quite a load, as I can hear the pitch change that even the turn blinkers cause. Yes, it's a loud fuel pump.

If you suspect this, you have to disconnect the big 6 gauge wire from the glow plug relay to see if the unexpected voltmeter wagging goes away. Disconnecting the relay coil was inconclusive, as mine was failing regardless of coil current

Should you try this, I will suggest disconnecting both battery negatives first. That glow plug feed comes directly from the battery rail. Insulate it well and guarantee it won't see ground. I wrapped mine in bubble wrap and stuffed it in a toilet paper tube to make sure it wouldn't touch anything.

If you are still getting unexpected wags, this wasn't it. All I can figure out is that one company is making these relays, others are reselling then under their brand, and someone changed the manufacturing method. As I had experienced the same identical problem on two different brands

Hi,

I am not sure if I understand everything correctly (@least tonight )

But everything GP related is new, Computer, relay, GP etc.

But that leads me into the Fuel-Shut-off thread that I have as well - offtopic here. But the FSO is connected to the GP Relay as it looks.

 

[derjackistweg]

Hi @ all,

must this copper plate be attached to the both of the negative terminals?
On the "1." new one there was a copper plate to the both negative ones and the both positive ones.
On the 2. new one there was only one on the positive ones. So I did NOT change this.

 

[derjackistweg]

Hi @ all,

must this copper plate be attached to the both of the negative terminals?
On the "1." new one there was a copper plate to the both negative ones and the both positive ones.
On the 2. new one there was only one on the positive ones. So I did NOT change this.

So, I guess the missing copper plate on both sides, plus and minus, are critical.

I later put on the plate on the neg pole/to neg. on the regulator side .... and it works now!
And it works now like it is supposed to be: Stable 13,8 or so to 14.2V.

No jumping no nothing.

So looks like the regular on the new alternator was false. DOA.

 

[Cant Write]

Glad to hear you got it solved. I was going to look at my van to try and help.

So maybe if the parts stores don’t come with those, you have to move them over or make jumpers....

 

[XOLATEM]

Hey Y'all...

If you have not already figured it out...my Girl tells me that this guy from Cologne...his handle... means literally ..'The Jack is Missing'..
Kinda comical. You guys are a riot.

I am glad it was figured out....a lot of patience and understanding was exhibited by all...as well as a lot of willingness to help.
You guys are a great bunch of truck lovers.

 

[derjackistweg]

Hey Y'all...

If you have not already figured it out...my Girl tells me that this guy from Cologne...his handle... means literally ..'The Jack is Missing'..

Correct.

2009 I had the idea to make a looong trip and to make a blog about that. (Blog is the old thing the internet kids call now Vlog.)
So something like: I got to go ... see you next year.

 

[Rondo]

This is just a thought so don’t take it as the solution. I believe the ambulance package had battery isolator on it. A battery isolator will cause a slight drop in voltage, enough that a battery may never obtain a full charge. Is it possible that the alternator for the ambulance package is rated at a higher voltage due to this drop though the battery isolator? If the isolator had been removed then the batteries will see higher volts. Like i said just a thought, not necessarily correct. What are the specs on the alternator?

 

[derjackistweg]

This is just a thought so don’t take it as the solution. I believe the ambulance package had battery isolator on it. A battery isolator will cause a slight drop in voltage, enough that a battery may never obtain a full charge. Is it possible that the alternator for the ambulance package is rated at a higher voltage due to this drop though the battery isolator? If the isolator had been removed then the batteries will see higher volts. Like i said just a thought, not necessarily correct. What are the specs on the alternator?

Hi Rondo,

it was an ambulance but not in a traditional US car style. I dont know what the Norway people ordered exactly but I think nothing is left from that.
Partly removed before I owned it, the rest by me.