cam removal and install?

[gonecrazyi]

What is involved with removing and reinstalling a cam?

I want to rebuild one of my 6.9s and would like an idea of what im getting into lol.

 

[icanfixall]

Looking at the front of the truck and engine... Everything needs to be removed so the cam can be removed. All the top of the engine needs to come off also... Intake... Valves covers.... Rockers.... Valley pan.... Injection pump and gear cover... Crank dampner will need to be removed with the special remover-installer tool... The most difficult part will be removing the cam gear from the cam and the thrust washer setup behind that.... Its a big job doing this and for me I would pull the engine. Its a much easier job working on a stand than it is bending over the engine... Are you installing a typ4 cam....

 

[gonecrazyi]

I've been tossing the idea around.

The engine will definity be out of the truck and on a stand. Where is the best placeto get the pullet tool for th cam gear? I may try taking apart one of my parts motors thisweek to see what it takes.

Has anyone done a writeup on this?

 

[racer30]

I have done alot of research on the cam dynamics of this engine. I ran the info on a computer dyno program. every thing from mild to wild. You cant go wrong with the type4 cam, It out performed any other cam grind profile I tryed in the stock engine. When you start to modify the engine with lower compression and more boost there are some things in the grind you can change based on the rpm range you are looking for. IMO if you are doing a basic rebuild with small mods here and there a type 4 cam will be the best thing you could do for power and torq and then top that off with new bb injectors and a good ip and you will be very happy with the $200.00 investment. here is a graph to show the power gains... remember the numbers are not as important as the curve in the data,... I am not saying this is the power you will get if you use this cam but the info about the gains is as good as I could get using the info I could find on the engine. It will be the best $200.00 you ever spent. edit Numbers are at the crank.

 

[gonecrazyi]

Those are pretty good curves.

I wouldn't mind rebuilding from the ground up but the lack of experience kind of stops me. I can get the money around but other than top end work I've never got any further into a motor or the calculations needed to verify tolerances.

This being said I will probably stud the heads and possibly the intake. I would like to do the cam as well.

 

[gonecrazyi]

Those are pretty good curves.

I wouldn't mind rebuilding from the ground up but the lack of experience kind of stops me. I can get the money around but other than top end work I've never got any further into a motor or the calculations needed to verify tolerances.

This being said I will probably stud the heads and possibly the intake. I would like to do the cam as well.

 

[88beast]

just an fyi on the parts motor i broke 3 crank pully pullers and i soaked it in pb blast for 3 weeks before the last one gernaded

 

[MidnightBlade]

I have done alot of research on the cam dynamics of this engine. I ran the info on a computer dyno program. every thing from mild to wild. You cant go wrong with the type4 cam, It out performed any other cam grind profile I tryed in the stock engine. When you start to modify the engine with lower compression and more boost there are some things in the grind you can change based on the rpm range you are looking for. IMO if you are doing a basic rebuild with small mods here and there a type 4 cam will be the best thing you could do for power and torq and then top that off with new bb injectors and a good ip and you will be very happy with the $200.00 investment. here is a graph to show the power gains... remember the numbers are not as important as the curve in the data,... I am not saying this is the power you will get if you use this cam but the info about the gains is as good as I could get using the info I could find on the engine. It will be the best $200.00 you ever spent

how the F@%K did they get 545 TQ???????? i think we got a wrong graph here, maybe someone got confused with the labeling

 

[racer30]

dude calm down take a deep breath.... the numbers on the graph are crankshaft hp and torq and the dyno thinks its a psd and is a little bit optimistic. take 545 divide by 1.4 for truck drive train 389 torq or 1.3 is 419 ....At the wheels, this was with only 10psi boost and a lean fuel setting the information is good the numbers are not important to the big picture, the fact is the stock cam is restricting the engines ability to make and use the boost. It is a na camshaft grind. The overlap on the valves is 38* all the turbo cam ginds I found for other brands of Turbo diesel engine had between 8* and 15* negative overlap to keep from blowing pressure through the valves when they are both open. stock na 7.3 has a vol eff of 87% with a type4 cam and 9psi the vol eff 131% with a -13 overlap.

 

[riotwarrior]

dude calm down take a deep breath.... the numbers on the graph are crankshaft hp and torq and the dyno thinks its a psd and is a little bit optimistic. take 545 divide by 1.4 for truck drive train 389 torq or 1.3 is 419 ....At the wheels, this was with only 10psi boost and a lean fuel setting the information is good the numbers are not important to the big picture, the fact is the stock cam is restricting the engines ability to make and use the boost. It is a na camshaft grind. The overlap on the valves is 38* all the turbo cam ginds I found for other brands of Turbo diesel engine had between 8* and 15* negative overlap to keep from blowing pressure through the valves when they are both open. stock na 7.3 has a vol eff of 87% with a type4 cam and 9psi the vol eff 131% with a -13 overlap.

Why don't you post those numbers a little more of equal comparison?

Your graphs show a stock cam and 6lbs boost vs Type4 and 10lbs boost. Not equal what so ever...

Perhaps post both setups again but this time at say 6, 12, 18, 24 for ***** n giggles. Doing direct comparison is the best way to show the difference.

Adding boost itself will make a change so I feel that your comparison is not very fair to begin with.

JM2CW

 

[racer30]

sorry, that graph is one I had handy, it was to show what can be done with just a few mods, one of them is to turn up the boost at the waste gate rod. plus the turbo spools up sooner with the type4 cam so 10psi is realy easy to get, boost can be tricky to predict because of the different exhaust systems people run. If you got the engine out for the rebuild it would be easy to turn up the rod on the waste gate. I agree change one thing at a time is the best way to see the trends in the data. when I run small changes the data stacks up on the graph so you cant read it.

 

[prepowerstroke]

so exactly what all needs to come off of the engine to put a cam in it?

 

[rhkcommander]

Just pulled cam on my old junk engine, but you will need a few more steps

Pulled ip and gear in one piece since not using engine ever again

Pulled waterpump

Unbolted crank pulley and popped it off with rubber mallet. Got gear puller to loosen damper and then eventually me and friend used pry bars to pop it off. Then pull the metal plate off that blocks the gears. Two bolts at 10 oclock and 4 oclock hold the cam in under the cam gear. Pulling gear is easy with puller, just take off allen head bolt and washer, puller it off. You can get the two bolts out before the gear through the holes, its tight but i did. 1/2" socket IIRC.

Then rotate and pull cam and out it comes. But all of the rollers will fall down if you dont take the top of the engine off first, all mine ended up in oil pan before she goes to scrapyard.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

It might not be the best way, but you can remove the cam gear with an air hammer. Remove the bolt in the front of the cam and use a punch in the air hammer. Use it on the back side of the gear and it will come off. I hold the gear between my feet to keep it off the ground. Hold the cam with one hand. You might have to turn it around 180 degrees a few times.