Cab swap or?

[pelky350]

So my cabs got the cracked firewall in multiple places and some minor rust spots going on, leaks are everywhere and the cab just seems to be dying a slow death at this point. Is it worth the effort to try and fix or should I buy another crew cab for 200$ that’s not dying? Motor is at 190xxx, but I’ve done a ton of work already to the entire truck but this stuff seems to want attention next. I’ve got the repair plate that bolts to fire wall to fix cracks but it’s all starting to rust now and water leaking from what seems to be everywhere up front. And in back and it’s slowly eating the cab up now. Also not in rust belt so it’s pretty slow going. Hoping for 5-10 more years out of the truck, idk how long it’s gonna last, obviously I can keep fixing it forever but one day I’m gonna have to stop it’s been 5 years now lol

 

[chillman88]

If you can find a good crew cab for $200 that's the way to go. You will be in for far more than that fixing up your cab.

 

[sjwelds]

Cab swap=VIN change. Don't know if that's a problem in your area, but it'd be worth checking out

 

[pelky350]

I’d get the title with the cab i got; we don’t have inspections so we can pretty much drive anything we put tags into no questions asked lol how difficult is it to do a cab swap? Cab it be done in a driveway? There are two cabs available around me basically complete one is a 460 truck and other was a 6.9 how heavy are they with fender and everything still on them?

 

[chillman88]

I can't answer how heavy they are but I wouldn't want to pull them with the fenders still on. They're easy enough to remove that I'd think you're asking for trouble leaving them on.

Sure it can be done in a driveway... if you have the means to lift and move them. @laserjock got to play with an extended cab, I'm sure a crew would be a bit heavier, especially if you still have the doors attached.

 

[pelky350]

Anyone know how well the rust stopper in a can works? When my carpet was out and I discovered this I hosed as much as I could down with a couple cans of that stuff that’s supposed to turn it into “black primer” color and it did sorta look black after

 

[chillman88]

I'm not really sure but it will need to be topcoated for it to last. Probably depends more on how bad the rust is. It should at least help if applied correctly.

 

[chris142]

how difficult is it to do a cab swap? Cab it be done in a driveway?

When I was 16 I wrecked my 78 Toyota pickup. Hit head on by a drunk driver. My front end,frame and cab were destroyed.

I got another cab and a frame from a junkyard and built my truck in my gravel yard. It was not real hard. Took me 3 days straight with only hand tools. I got help lifting the bed on ,the cab on and had a glass guy put a new windshield in.

If I could do that @16 you can swap a ford cab.

 

[Thewespaul]

Toyota pickup cab will weigh about a third of what a bricknose crew cab will weigh, but if you get enough buddies together you can knock it out pretty quick, if the vin isn’t an issue and you don’t want to repair the cab you have then sounds like a swap is your only option

 

[laserjock]

Sure it can be done in a driveway... if you have the means to lift and move them. @laserjock got to play with an extended cab, I'm sure a crew would be a bit heavier, especially if you still have the doors attached.

My 1500 lb hoist lifts it nicely. [emoji16]

Seriously though, it can be done with a cherry picker through the front door hole. I’d recommend taking the doors off if at all possible. That’s a couple hundred pounds on a crew cab. Pro tip. The balance point on an ext cab is somewhere near the steering wheel. It is very heavy toward the firewall. I’d expect a crew cab to be pretty similar. I’m sure enough guys could lift it or you could crib it up and roll the frame out. Either is doable in a driveway. Hard surface makes it easier. Seriously though, unless there is major structural issues, a clean and paint will last a good while. Floor pans are not that tough to replace especially if you’re expectations are fairly low like mine. I can’t see the welds under the carpet while driving.

;sweet

 

[SebastIDIan]

Few ideas I found on the web

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[pelky350]

I don’t think I’m gonna need floor pans or parts I only have like two whole the size of a pea on the floor, I just don’t want them expanding fast and I’m worried with the moisture leaking under my matting that it may continue. My major issue is my fire wall is redneck braced because my clutch master cylinder went though it a few years back. I’ll take some pictures tomorrow to show further what’s going on. I’m not worried about looks just functionality of the stuff inside the cab and around it. It’s gonna be under carpet and being my dash so slap and go can be done as long as it’s strong and last long

 

[chillman88]

Well the dash might be an easy fix depending on the extent of the damage. One of the members on here makes the patch panel for the master cylinder issue. ItsI a bolt in repair plate.

 

[laserjock]

Go to terrapin manufacturing for the firewall fix.

@freebird01

It’s extremely common in these trucks for the firewall to crack at the clutch master. I sure wouldn’t swap cabs over what you are describing.

 

[catbird7]

Go to terrapin manufacturing for the firewall fix.

@freebird01

It’s extremely common in these trucks for the firewall to crack at the clutch master. I sure wouldn’t swap cabs over what you are describing.

X2
Cab swap is a major task having the potential to snowball into untold "cha-ching / $$" due to breaking things during disassembly. Just one example: Consider or Visualize the dimension of pissed off you might visit if the $300.00 windshield cracks or breaks in your $200.00 replacement cab.
Found this in my notes and not sure if PN# is still valid however check this: Ford Clutch Pedal Reinforcement Kit E3TZ-7K509-A.