Buying 85 IDI ATS turbo motorhome!

Big Bart

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Well don’t assume you will do better buying old and used to pull a trailer half way across America. Yes you are correct full size SUV’s are not cheap to rent, figure $100-200 a day based on location but if they break down you go to the next office and they give you a new one. But that is the price of admission to travel these days.

We have a canoe trailer in Maine so I rent full size SUVs for a couple weeks each summer. I have penciled out the costs of keeping a SUV there Vs renting. It’s about the same cost renting vs keeping a SUV. Figure buying something decent is 10k, depreciation (10k will be 2k in 10 years.) maintaining it, insuring it for the year, registering it, paying my care taker to start and drive it every so often, hoping the mice don’t set up shop in it, and still paying get taxi’s to and from the airport which best case is an hour away. One big upside of renting is you can fly in and out of any airport in New England which at times saves us $200 a ticket or $800 for the family. A second upside is I don’t spend my time on vacation at the stealership or wrenching on it.

So let’s talk this through. Buying a used car for 2k could work out if you get lucky and it‘s a well maintained runner. But how do you ever know???? But maybe you just dropped $140 on a Motel 6 trying to find the right deal and another $200 on a taxi‘s to go across town too look at a few and back again pick one up. Now its $2,340. Need a couple of tires? Some belts and hoses? By the time you register it, perhaps pay for a inspection to register it, insure it, put a hitch on it, and then pray it makes it without breaking down how much will you really save? Then you get the pleasure of dealing with 20 Craigsflakes and 30 Offer Up lowballers when you sell it till one actually buys it. Now you probably lose $500 on the resale and $150 worth of your time dealing with those folks.(Because your time is worth money.) You could save as much as $800 if the plan goes off without a hitch but you could loose your $2,340 or more on the side of the road. Let’s say the car is tired and the extra trailer weight does the motor or tranny in. You just lost $1,500-2,000 and your stuck till you fix or find another car and go down the above path of pain again. So is the risk of best case saving $800 vs the risk loosing $2,340 actually doing better? That is not a good bet to me, but to each there own. If my RV died I would cut bait, liquidate, rent a SUV from National with a $300 drop fee, and high tail it home. Regroup and hit the road when ready again. The truck is pricey but now it was also 3-5 nights at a hotel, gas, and food. Break down in a old car that expense keeps adding up. Life is getting really expensive and sadly inflation is rising fast.
 

Cubey

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Well don’t assume you will do better buying old and used to pull a trailer half way across America. Yes you are correct full size SUV’s are not cheap to rent, figure $100-200 a day based on location but if they break down you go to the next office and they give you a new one. But that is the price of admission to travel these days.

We have a canoe trailer in Maine so I rent full size SUVs for a couple weeks each summer. I have penciled out the costs of keeping a SUV there Vs renting. It’s about the same cost renting vs keeping a SUV. Figure buying something decent is 10k, depreciation (10k will be 2k in 10 years.) maintaining it, insuring it for the year, registering it, paying my care taker to start and drive it every so often, hoping the mice don’t set up shop in it, and still paying get taxi’s to and from the airport which best case is an hour away. One big upside of renting is you can fly in and out of any airport in New England which at times saves us $200 a ticket or $800 for the family. A second upside is I don’t spend my time on vacation at the stealership or wrenching on it.

So let’s talk this through. Buying a used car for 2k could work out if you get lucky and it‘s a well maintained runner. But how do you ever know???? But maybe you just dropped $140 on a Motel 6 trying to find the right deal and another $200 on a taxi‘s to go across town too look at a few and back again pick one up. Now its $2,340. Need a couple of tires? Some belts and hoses? By the time you register it, perhaps pay for a inspection to register it, insure it, put a hitch on it, and then pray it makes it without breaking down how much will you really save? Then you get the pleasure of dealing with 20 Craigsflakes and 30 Offer Up lowballers when you sell it till one actually buys it. Now you probably lose $500 on the resale and $150 worth of your time dealing with those folks.(Because your time is worth money.) You could save as much as $800 if the plan goes off without a hitch but you could loose your $2,340 or more on the side of the road. Let’s say the car is tired and the extra trailer weight does the motor or tranny in. You just lost $1,500-2,000 and your stuck till you fix or find another car and go down the above path of pain again. So is the risk of best case saving $800 vs the risk loosing $2,340 actually doing better? That is not a good bet to me, but to each there own. If my RV died I would cut bait, liquidate, rent a SUV from National with a $300 drop fee, and high tail it home. Regroup and hit the road when ready again. The truck is pricey but now it was also 3-5 nights at a hotel, gas, and food. Break down in a old car that expense keeps adding up. Life is getting really expensive and sadly inflation is rising fast.

If the RV gets totaled, I have $3500 "agreed value" on it plus $3000 coverage for contents. Plus $750 for emergency expenses for a covered occurrence (ie wreck, tree falling on it, stolen) so I won't be totally without in one of those situations. I have low deductibles too, so those wouldn't eat into it too much. I could get a budget motel for a month with the $750 while I try to find a replacement vehicle. I have money in savings, and I have good credit on a lot of cards (just a chapter 7 from 2013) so I could probably finance a vehicle for a not to bad rate if I really had to. In fact, my credit union would probably do an auto loan over the phone/via email if I decided to go to a dealer, like they did for me with the personal loan I got (and fully paid off early) that I used to buy the RV. So, I do have options besides looking for the cheapest thing on craigslist.

It also depends how far away I am, and where I am if the RV gets totaled one way or the other (wreck or blown engine). The small Texas city I'm in right now, about 40 miles from a major city, there are no car rental agencies here. But there is a uhaul place. I could rent a 10ft uhaul truck for $530 (plus tax and fuel) with 604 miles and 4 days usage included. I'm exactly 506 miles from my truck and the truck is close to several uhaul places, so that would be more than enough to get me there without feeling rushed.

But if I'm 2,500 miles away (ie in Washington state), a 10ft uhaul truck rental would be $7,259 before tax, damage coverage or fuel. Being able to find a rental with a hitch would be hard except for uhauls because they probably don't want people towing. I'd just end up having to buy something in that case, unless I was able to affordably board my dog at a trustworthy place and fly out to get my truck then haul ass back up there to get my dog. But who's to say my old truck won't fail me somehow on the drive up there?

There's just too many variables to really say what I'd do exactly. Are we talking a blown engine or a wreck? Are we talking 500 miles or 2500 miles? It all depends. Depending on the situation and location, if I could limp the RV to a cheap RV park, that would give me time to consider what to do. I do have a 49cc Honda scooter with me in the trailer, so that would give me something to get around on without having to rely on taxis, if I can't or don't want to move the RV much. It's faster than walking or biking.
 
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Cubey

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A sample of something that might be good, an old Toyota Sienna van posted for $3200 with 160k miles and cold AC. They can tow a bit and it would something to sleep in too, and might even be a replacement for the motorhome for the way better mpg. (just not much room) I'd have to get a camping toilet and gym membership again for showers though. https://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/cto/d/phoenix-2001-toyota-sienna-le/7394947771.html

Minivans are usually cheaper than trucks, SUVs and full size vans and can be in found in pretty good mechanical shape since they were maintained for safely hauling the kids around in and they have more of a stigma attached (like station wagons used to 30 years ago) vs SUVs.

But let us hope I don't have to go that route, at least not anytime soon. The RV is running great, it's just a bit leaky in places and needs lots of wood replaced.
 
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Big Bart

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Cubey your thread recently turned into your concerns of your vehicle breaking down, being at its end, or becoming dangerous to live in structurally. You recently mention dropping it at you moms house in Tx to refurb it. While in Tx perhaps continue the journey from there with your pick up. (Which you state needs work too.) So not sure how we switched from if it dies to what if it gets totaled in an accident.

My suggestion for you and for future readers of the thread was if you break down while towing with a hitch and ball (VS 5th wheel or gooseneck hitch.) style trailer there is a good back up plan. If one were to break down (Or get in an accident.) there is a back up plan. I was sharing some valuable knowledge that all Suburbans, Armadas, and I believe Sequoia’s have a receiver because they cannot order it without it. Yet 95% of pick ups at a rental agency do not have the receiver because it’s optional, so to prevent towing they specify no hitch. At most airports you can ask to see theor trucks and SUV’s and find ones with the hitch. You can rent one way, unlimited miles, a trouble free and reliable SUV. That can take you, the dog, kids if they came along, and a medium sized trailer to your destination of choice. Return it locally and sort out the rest from the comfort of your home.

You made a bold statement that for some reason it would be so expensive to rent a SUV that buying a old passenger car for $2,000 then selling it when you arrive would serve you better. From my experience it does not pencil out to buy a old car to avoid renting one. The risk does not outweigh the reward. In my experience seldom do you ever get your money out of a old used car. (Especially if you do any repairs or buy new tires.) You can get most anywhere in the lower US in 5 days or less. Renting a SUV for 5 days one way usually can be done for less than $1,300. So buying a car, insuring the car, doing the dmv paperwork, and likely doing some preventitive maintenance befor towing (Oil change, trans fluid change, new belt/belts, etc.) getting a hitch installed for $250-350, and hoping it can pull hard for 1-5 days without a repair. (Towing with a passenger vehicle is not what IDI owners generally consider advisable and safe.) Then spending time posting it, answering questions, waiting for folks to not show up, and hopefully find someone to give you more than you paid for the car plus repairs. Possible but not likely. It’s more likely you would loose $500-700 of what you have into it and be no better off. To your point renting a U Haul for $500 would be easier and likely cheaper.

To your point again it’s not cost effective to rent a U Haul for 5 days and go 2,500 miles for $7,200.(They get you on the mileage!) But why do that when you can rent a SUV with unlimited miles for $1,300? They handle the maintenance, repairs, and eat the depreciation.

I hope you and the members reading this never need a back up plan but if anyone does now you know a good option.
 
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Cubey

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I just oveely stress about stuff sometimes. The prospect of driving through DFW aways does that, even though it's never been bad.

The grey tank issue triggered high stress a while back which is what caused the thread shift, but it's been two or more months and over 1000 miles with the straps so it's fine for now. I could probably work on it this month, but I think I'll wait another several months until I get to my mom's house so I don't have to worry about being bothered for doing it at a campground. It's gonna take tearing out old rorren wood and shag carpet (yep they have it under the tub/shower) and doing so without damaging 12v wires and water pipes running through there.

What's more pressing currently is doing an oil change soon and getting a $5 tube of ultra black rtv for the seeping axle gasket.

I figure what might do it in mechanically is when the IP wears out. It probably won't be worth paying someone to change that and the injectors. But it's currently at around 78,300 miles, and I put under 5,000 miles a year on it, so it should outlast the rest of the RV, if it lasts to around 150k miles. (15+ years more from now)
 
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Cubey

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A while back, I found that a DEF funnel was pretty good for filling oil on the RV, but I've managed to already misplace it. I put it somewhere "safe" so I could "find it easily". :rolleyes:

Well, I made a big mess trying to top off my oil recently trying to use a different funnel, dripping it all down on the belts and the ground. So, I decided to get one of these:

The way the hood is on vans, it doesn't allow for much room to use a funnel and tilt a gallon or two jug, so this should be ideal for both changes and top offs. I like that the nozzle has a cap too, so I can store oil in it without it getting contaminated. I have been keeping a 2 gallon jug of TSC Traveller oil right behind the driver's seat, so this should fit there instead.
 

Cubey

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It took me longer to dig out the tools to remove the simulator than it did to actually remove it. Although the electric impact torqued the nuts when I put the nuts back on. I didn't go crazy with it, but it got them right. Torque wrench clicked on all 8 at 145ft lbs so at least that's done. I'll get some rtv in a few days. But now I just have to pull the axle shaft flange bolts and pull the shaft to seal it up, no need to jack it up again. The simulator is in the trailer for now. It's such a small leak it's almost not worth messing with, but if oil is coming out, water could get in, so I'll seal it up.

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Cubey

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I think reverse is starting to go. It felt like it was slipping the other day when I got to this free city RV park. I guess I'll check the fluid to be sure it's not low, since that could be the reason, I suppose.

I have the money to have it rebuilt but it'll be a bit hard to find a shop to have a bay big enough for a 27ft rig. I'm near Amarillo though (less than an hour's drive) so maybe I should consider looking into it while I'm here. If I wait until it goes, I'll be in worse shape since I may not be near a repair shop that can fit it.

I found this place on Google Maps just south of Amarillo (Julian's Transmission Repair) that looks to work on buses and big trucks. Dunno if they do full rebuilds though, much less on old C6s.

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Cubey

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Well I scoped out a couple of other transmission shops around Texas that have outdoor lifts and state that they work on large vehicles like RVs, box trucks, etc. One is in Denton (Eagle transmissions) and one is in San Antonio (Mr Transmission). Maybe the transmission can hold out until San Antonio in December. It'll mean several or more nights at a Motel 6 (where they allow my dog) but that's just how it goes. Many RV parks aren't much cheaper than budget motels these days because they try to be fancy, so a trailer setup would be cost just as much if the F250 has to go in the shop for several days.

Maybe I can schedule it so they have the parts all ready to go when I drop it off, unlike that awful transmission shop that rebuilt the F250's differential, leaving me in a motel for a week because they were incompetent at ordering parts and messing up one or more times and charging $500 more than the original quote. And it still leaks from the yoke side.

Oh and after i typed the above (on phone, so don't wanna do a lot of of editing) I noticed that Precision transmission in Amarillo (who has YouTube videos of customer transmission teardowns) has an outdoor lift too. The old guy there seems to know his stuff for transmissions based on his videos so that might be a good option too.

Here's one of him tearing down a big block C6:

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snicklas

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Cubey,

The shop that video you posted is in Amarillo. If you can make it up there that is THE place I would take it. That is Richard at Precision Transmission that @david85 and I have talked about. They have an outside lift, and it WILL be right if they do it. That would be my choice if possible.

(I have watched every video that Richard and Trent have posted)
 

Cubey

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Cubey,

The shop that video you posted is in Amarillo. If you can make it up there that is THE place I would take it. That is Richard at Precision Transmission that @david85 and I have talked about. They have an outside lift, and it WILL be right if they do it. That would be my choice if possible.

(I have watched every video that Richard and Trent have posted)

Yep. I have watched a lot of his videos but didn't realize he had an outdoor lift until I looked closer at satellite view mid-way through that above post. Hopefully it's wide enough, this thing has a pretty wide box.

What's funny is I was mildly worried about the transmission this summer when out in Utah and Idaho, just due to it's age, not due to slipping, delays, or anything like that. I was thinking "maybe I can hold out until fall when I get near Amarillo and have them do it". I was in Amarillo around Oct 18 but it wasn't having any noticeable problems (including reverse) so I came on up here as planned.

Since it seems that reverse just started slipping, it's time to have it done. I thought it was slipping a bit last week but I wasn't sure. Forward gears are all fine still, so I could probably make it the ~60 miles down there. I was already going to go back through Amarillo in another 7 to 10 days from now anyway, so it's not like I'd be going out of my way.

Of course I'm not thrilled about having to spend $1500-2000, depending on what he advises for parts for such a heavy load it has to carry all the time, but I knew it was going to come up eventually. I'll probably have him upgrade the transmission cooler too since the factory one isn't that big, and it's so old. I guess I should get in contact with them ASAP and see what they have to say about it. If I have to put it off a couple more weeks, I can, assuming it doesn't suddenly totally die on me. I'm not driving it much right now though, so maybe it'll hold out.

I do have RV roadside assistance with towing through my RV insurance policy, but it's 15 miles max, unless the "nearest qualified repair shop" is more than 15 miles away. Who knows where they'd take it in that case though. Precision might technically be the closest dedicated transmission shop though, especially from the campground I'm planning on going to tomorrow that's between here and Amarillo (~15 miles from here). It depends on what Progressive considers a "qualified repair shop" for a bad transmission.

Richard might be tickled by the transmission in this since it's most likely all original (except the filter and pan) and has lasted almost 37 years.
 

IDIBRONCO

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That sure is interesting. I think it would be a desired item for anyone with a C6. I'm sure looking at it for when I 6.9/C6 swap the Red Truck. Is it high priced? Yes, but if it does what it says, it would pay for itself with fuel savings unless you don't put very many miles on per year.
 

Cubey

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That sure is interesting. I think it would be a desired item for anyone with a C6. I'm sure looking at it for when I 6.9/C6 swap the Red Truck. Is it high priced? Yes, but if it does what it says, it would pay for itself with fuel savings unless you don't put very many miles on per year.

I found this old thread talking about these kinds of torque converters, mentioning a TCI maximizer, but I don't know if it's the diesel specific one or not, maybe the diesel one is a newer model: https://www.oilburners.net/threads/ok-old-school-guys-c6-torque-converter-question.74443/

They mentioned another torque converter make/model (BD 1030220) that sounds very similar ("more efficient operation, less heat and better fuel economy"), but it's $200 more, plus $300 core: https://wickeddieselva.com/i-304997...-1983-1989-ford-c6-6-9l-7-3l-idi-1030220.html
 

IDIBRONCO

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Despite the extra costs, it sounds like it will be worth it to me. I'm planning to use the Red Truck as a run around truck. Between the 2.47:1 gears and the soft (weak?) leaf springs in the rear it won't be much of a tow rig. My main focus is going to be fuel mileage, so I think this will be the way for me to go.
 
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