Buying 85 IDI ATS turbo motorhome!

[Cubey]

Ditto on make sure you can flat tow an auto stick. Also not sure many know how to repair them. So I would go with a manual.

Also look for a carbureted bug, the fuel injection parts are getting harder to find. Often a fuel injection leak ends up with your bug on fire.

Before you buy one, look at parts costs. Bugs used to be cheap but now the prices have gone way up. Engines are now $500 for a core and $1000 for a used runner. Folks are asking a lot for running bugs now.

Now Covairs are still dirt cheap.

Bugs haven't been cheap for 10+ years. You can still find good deals. There is good info online about adjustment and repair of auto stick transmissions.

Here is what they actually are:

The Autostick transmission combined a torque converter (which lets the engine run while in gear so you can drive the Beetle like it has an fully automatic transmission), paired with a 3 speed standard transmission that uses a vacuum-operated clutch to shift between gears without manually depressing a clutch pedal.

Pushing down on the shifter triggers a momentary switch(?) which actuates the clutch, so you press down, shift and let go. You can't rest your hand on the shifter like some people do with manual transmissions, since that's like keeping your left foot pressed down a clutch pedal.

Fuel injected ones are very fairly rare so avoiding those isn't hard. It was only on them for the last 2 or 3 years when sales were probably way down.

I tried driving an old manual transmission pickup once and got it stalled out several times then it wouldn't restart. The owner finally got it going again. I was like ok yeah I don't like manual transmission.

Autosticks just need a bit of knowledge to keep adjusted and working. There is way more online info now than 10 years ago in terms of video tutorials on YouTube. Just now looking on there, there is a video from 2 months ago on diagnosing the vacuum clutch setup. It's a small but dedicated following.

 

[Cubey]

Alternatively, I have considered getting an early 2000s Chevy Cavalier or Malibu because the auto trans is flat towable. They can be had for $2000-4000 depending on the miles. For example, a 2004 Cavalier sedan with 138k miles in southern Arizona (so probably no rust) is on Craigslist for $3k.

The thing is, they weight much more than an air cooled VW, so that's something to consider as far as towing and braking with this old primitive turbo IDI. Using a 1975 Super Beetle's weight of 1800lbs as a baseline, a Cavalier is about 800-900lbs heavier (2600-2700lbs), while a Malibu is about 1200-1300lbs heavier (3000-3100lbs). I'd probably have to spend a big chunk of money on a special braking system for it, unless I find a good deal on a car that comes complete with one already in it from being towed behind an RV.

A 2001 Saturn SC is 2300lbs and is A/T flat towable but Saturns are pretty rare so that would be hard to get my hands on. Plus I dunno about the tow bar and baseplate availability for Saturns. Cavalier and Malibu ones are still possible to get for those old early 2000s ones.

Tow dollies are a thing but that makes things more complicated, not a setup I want.

I suppose I'd do better financially to just stick with the cargo trailer or drop it off and go back to no trailer at all. This is why a lot of people like a pickup + trailer since they can drive a low teens mpg pickup when they have the trailer unhitched. I didn't like that setup much due to having to unload and load my dog. But now I have a trailer again anyway, just a tiny cargo one.

 

[Big Bart]

I think with some practice you could get a hang of a manual bug. But if Auto Stick works for and is towable then go for it.

 

[Cubey]

Seriously? I have a bad power steering leak again. But this time it seems to be the gearbox. I don't see any dripping from the hoses or their connections at the pump or top of the the gearbox, nor is it coming from the big seal on the pump (which is where it was before). Yet the bottom of the gearbox is soaked in ATF and leaves a big wet spot every time I park. It's defiantly from there, being red ATF.

It might be the seal for the output side, where the pitman arm is attached since it seems to be completely dry up top and doesn't seem to be coming from the back side of the gearbox. That gearbox is still very tight, no slop, so at least for now I'd rather buy fluid than replace it, considering how replacement ones are often super sloppy.

So, I'm gonna be buying the cheapest fluid I can to keep it filled. The pump reservoir was empty (or at least not showing on the dipstick) last night yet it wasn't making noise or having poor power steering assist. I refilled it about 3/4 of the way to full hot since the engine was hot at the time. After about 20 miles of driving today it's still got some in it but of course it is leaking. At least nothing down there is gonna rust.

I think I'll get a jug of this in the next city... 2 gallons for $17. Beats $15/gal for Dex/Merc at Walmart. Power steering is hydraulic in nature so it might be fine. Certainly better than nothing. https://www.calranch.com/trans-hydraulic-john-deere-oil-2-gal.html

 

[Big Bart]

Not sure which steering box you have, but if you end up with a rebuilt one the play is generally adjustable with the screw and nut opposite the pitman arm in that era of trucks.

The challenge with adjusting a older used unit is that moves the shaft up or down and can cause an old seal to leak.

 

[Cubey]

Not sure which steering box you have, but if you end up with a rebuilt one the play is generally adjustable with the screw and nut opposite the pitman arm in that era of trucks.

The challenge with adjusting a older used unit is that moves the shaft up or down and can cause an old seal to leak.

It's the original factory installed gearbox, but the RV is under 100k miles so that's why it's not worn out. My F250 had a similarity leaking AND worn out gearbox. I put in a junk yard gearbox from a 90s Ranger (yep same gearbox) in the F250 but it's worn out too, but at least it doesn't leak.

I got a $13 bottle of Blue Devil power steering stop leak and put in about the 1/3 of the 8oz bottle like the label says to do. It's a clear liquid, not a thickener like Lucas. I drove a couple miles (city) with several left and right turns so it should have gotten good and circulated. I'll have to see how it looks after a day or two of more driving.

 

[Big Bart]

Got it, guessing you assumed we would think used junk yard one when you mentioned replacement. I was assuming your replacement was like a Rock Auto or auto parts store rebuild. You know what they say about assuming.

I only buy used as a last resort. Then try to refurb or rebuild if possible. (Avoid issues and doing things perhaps twice.) I am a one and done guy, want it fixed right and for the long haul. I don’t want to keep revisiting the same system over and over. Just works for me but many ways to skin a cat.

Hopefully the Blue Devil will fix it. I would hate for someone on a bike or motorcycle to wipe out in a turn due to ATF in the road.

A old roommate totaled his new motorcycle from hitting coolant in a turn coming down a mountain. Went off a small cliff and broke is wrist and knee. His bike ended up stuck in a tree.

 

[Cubey]

Got it, guessing you assumed we would think used junk yard one when you mentioned replacement. I was assuming your replacement was like a Rock Auto or auto parts store rebuild. You know what they say about assuming.

I only buy used as a last resort. Then try to refurb or rebuild if possible. (Avoid issues and doing things perhaps twice.) I am a one and done guy, want it fixed right and for the long haul. I don’t want to keep revisiting the same system over and over. Just works for me but many ways to skin a cat.

Hopefully the Blue Devil will fix it. I would hate for someone on a bike or motorcycle to wipe out in a turn due to ATF in the road.

A old roommate totaled his new motorcycle from hitting coolant in a turn coming down a mountain. Went off a small cliff and broke is wrist and knee. His bike ended up stuck in a tree.

I have a small oil leak (dunno where from) and coolant leak (radiator) too. The radiator leak is slowly getting worse but it's not bad enough to replace yet. Old engines just tend to leak sadly. I won't out engine oil or coolant stop leak unless they become a dire situation where the leaks are really bad.

 

[TNBrett]

Is the leak from the pitman shaft seal a pretty steady drip, or does it seem to have some pressure behind it when you turn the wheel? If it’s just a drip, the pitman shaft seals are probably just shot, and can be replaced without completely disassembling the steering box. The parts are $10-$15, and Oreily or Advance, etc. can get it for you. Look up “pitman shaft seal kit”. The only special tools you would need are snap ring pliers, and a pitman arm puller. You will probably have to remove the steering box to do it though. Just food for thought. It lets you save money over a rebuilt unit, and you get to avoid having a sloppy rebuilt box.

 

[Cubey]

Is the leak from the pitman shaft seal a pretty steady drip, or does it seem to have some pressure behind it when you turn the wheel? If it’s just a drip, the pitman shaft seals are probably just shot, and can be replaced without completely disassembling the steering box. The parts are $10-$15, and Oreily or Advance, etc. can get it for you. Look up “pitman shaft seal kit”. The only special tools you would need are snap ring pliers, and a pitman arm puller. You will probably have to remove the steering box to do it though. Just food for thought. It lets you save money over a rebuilt unit, and you get to avoid having a sloppy rebuilt box.

I have an extra large pitman arm puller that will probably fit it, it's the one I had to buy to use on the F250 since the Ranger's pitman arm was different so I had to swap it over to the junk yard one.

But it seems the leak has maybe slowed or stopped. I'll check the level again tomorrow to make sure it's not just empty again. I'm not in a position where I can do a more major repair like that so I'm hoping the stop leak holds up for a while. My front right brake pads are squeaky now from being fouled but oh well. The squeaking goes away once they get heated up (braking several times). It's stopping ok still, just a bit noisy. I could probably just pull the wheel and spray down the rotor to help clean it up but that's still a huge pain in the neck right now. Unless braking starts being a problem, I'm gonna leave it alone.

 

[Booyah45828]

Those stop leaks just swell the seals in the system to tighten them up. It's okay if it works to get you home, but plan on replacing what was leaking in the first place, because it will be back. I've used a transmission version of that to get us back home to Ohio from Tennessee. It worked to get us back, but was leaking out the input shaft seal again within 6 months, requiring a trans rebuild this time. Some food for thought.

Like I said, those stop leaks work by swelling the seals, which also makes them soft. So I've seen power steering pumps, hoses, hydroboosters, gearboxes, etc. all start leaking within a year or two of using the stop leak. Save your money, because that 13 dollar fix might end up costing you.

 

[Cubey]

Those stop leaks just swell the seals in the system to tighten them up. It's okay if it works to get you home, but plan on replacing what was leaking in the first place, because it will be back. I've used a transmission version of that to get us back home to Ohio from Tennessee. It worked to get us back, but was leaking out the input shaft seal again within 6 months, requiring a trans rebuild this time. Some food for thought.

Like I said, those stop leaks work by swelling the seals, which also makes them soft. So I've seen power steering pumps, hoses, hydroboosters, gearboxes, etc. all start leaking within a year or two of using the stop leak. Save your money, because that 13 dollar fix might end up costing you.

Well it was going to cost me to constantly refill the pump. I just replaced the pump a few months ago due to the original factory pump's huge o ring for the reservoir going bad. It's a huge pain to change but oh well. I did it once so I could do it again. I kept the old pump as a spare and got a returned one from Amazon for pretty cheap. 4-5 months from now is about the soonest where I will be in a better position to see about fixing it. I might use a pump to suck out the oil and replace it with fresh so it removes the additive so it doesn't keep treating it long term. Might help the seals last longer.

 

[Selahdoor]

I've long suspected that the additive in those things is acetone.

Brake cleaner is acetone, I think. And brake cleaner will swell rubber. It also makes rubber that has begun to harden, become soft and limber again.

Put just enough of that stuff, (and no more), into your power steering pump, or trans, and you would swell the seals.

 

[TNBrett]

I've long suspected that the additive in those things is acetone.

Brake cleaner is acetone, I think. And brake cleaner will swell rubber. It also makes rubber that has begun to harden, become soft and limber again.

Put just enough of that stuff, (and no more), into your power steering pump, or trans, and you would swell the seals.

Some brake cleaner has acetone in it, but there are tons of different formulations of brake cleaner. Some brands have 4 or 5 different formulations under one brand.

 

[Cubey]

I've long suspected that the additive in those things is acetone.

Brake cleaner is acetone, I think. And brake cleaner will swell rubber. It also makes rubber that has begun to harden, become soft and limber again.

Put just enough of that stuff, (and no more), into your power steering pump, or trans, and you would swell the seals.

The MSDS says it's all..

Di(ethylene glycol) ethyl ether

https://gobdp.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/00232_sds.pdf

So at least it is something specific, not just acetone or brake fluid. It can be used as a brake fluid ingredient but yeah. Better to buy the right chemical for the right purpose.