Burnin WMO in my idi
- Thread starter cr430c
- Start date
nice, just a little side not in all teh assembly work, make sure the electric motor turns the same direction as the pump. i almost set mine up the wrong way 
but i didn't
mounting the CF above the drum cuts down on the resonating noise a whole lot
i added a rubber oring under the handle of my bypass that regulates the pressure. this put more tension on it to keep the pressure from drifting down over time.
the vibrations from the CF can crack metal fittings, its good to have some rubber seperating the CF from other fittings if possible
drum heaters are expensive
i tested my system with Veggie oil i had at first incase i had any leaks or blowouts its all bio degradable
i am thinking of upgrading my regular high pressure lines by putting another larger hose around them. that way i have a hose inside a hose set up. if my high pressure hose ever blows it will channel my oil through the secound backup hose back into my tank. that way i dont empty my tank inside my garage and burn my pumps up if it fails and i am not around.
some some build thoughts
but i didn'tmounting the CF above the drum cuts down on the resonating noise a whole lot
i added a rubber oring under the handle of my bypass that regulates the pressure. this put more tension on it to keep the pressure from drifting down over time.
the vibrations from the CF can crack metal fittings, its good to have some rubber seperating the CF from other fittings if possible
drum heaters are expensive
i tested my system with Veggie oil i had at first incase i had any leaks or blowouts its all bio degradable
i am thinking of upgrading my regular high pressure lines by putting another larger hose around them. that way i have a hose inside a hose set up. if my high pressure hose ever blows it will channel my oil through the secound backup hose back into my tank. that way i dont empty my tank inside my garage and burn my pumps up if it fails and i am not around.
some some build thoughts
Last edited:
Alwaysreadyrob
2002 7.3 POWERSTROKE 4x4
do they make injector pumps that can stand up to burning WVO ? without causing damage ?
diezelcrazee
Full Access Member
My IDI loves WMO so much that I sold my powerstroke to buy a second IDI.
May I emphasize: Clean, clean, clean.... you can't get WMO too clean.... I centrifuge twice (open bowl, not pressure driven), then last stage is 4 psi through a 20" long 1 micron bag filter.
Also, I'm blending with 15% RUG (W85) before second centrifuging. Haven't had to change a truck fuel filter yet.
May I emphasize: Clean, clean, clean.... you can't get WMO too clean.... I centrifuge twice (open bowl, not pressure driven), then last stage is 4 psi through a 20" long 1 micron bag filter.
Also, I'm blending with 15% RUG (W85) before second centrifuging. Haven't had to change a truck fuel filter yet.
Last edited:
there are no specail pumps for these trucks to hold up to stronger fuel mix use. you can get a hot pump that is set up to give a better fuel output to get more power but but the internals are not more roubust for alternative fuel use in any way that i know of, a DB2 pump is a DB2 pump.
some of the inline piston pumps are a much more roubust design but do not fit our engines without a WHOLE lot of custom machine work and fitting.
some of the inline piston pumps are a much more roubust design but do not fit our engines without a WHOLE lot of custom machine work and fitting.
leswhitt
Full Access Member
I did it in reverse, my IDI loved WMO so much that i bought a PSD Excursion so that i can run it in that too
diezelcrazee
Full Access Member
I did it in reverse, my IDI loved WMO so much that i bought a PSD Excursion so that i can run it in that too
What blend are you running in the PSD?
velacreations
Full Access Member
I've got a 94 7.3 IDI turbo I want to start running on WMO or ATF. I live in an area that has a lot of ag equipment, so there is a lot of hydraulic oil around, too.
I go through 30-50 gallons of diesel a month. So, I don't need to find a whole lot, one or tranny shops or maybe 2 tractor shops should keep me in oil. I'm trying to focus on ATF or HF because of the lower viscosity (less gasoline needed), and it tends to be a lot cleaner than the WMO. No one gets dipped here, so I don't worry about red fuel. I know of a few forklift places, too, so I'm sure I can get a source lined up.
I've seen some centrifuges online that are pretty cheap ($150 for 60gph), and add a pump and motor ($300), and I could probably put together a cleaning system for under $500. I figure I will rough filter through fabrics and screens into a settling tank. Then, add gasoline, and let it settle some more. Then, probably drain off the bottom until it looks good, and then feed that through a 10 micron filter, then to the centrifuge. I'm gonna set my filters up so that I can backwash them with gasoline to make them last longer.
Do you think 3-4 passes through the centrifuges would clean it up enough? Should I prefilter more before the centrifuge?
Do you guys heat your oil before filtering? I'm off grid, so I don't have a huge amount of electricity available to be heating drums of oil. I figure if I blend before running through the centrifuge, it should be thin enough. Am I off base here, or should that work?
I go through 30-50 gallons of diesel a month. So, I don't need to find a whole lot, one or tranny shops or maybe 2 tractor shops should keep me in oil. I'm trying to focus on ATF or HF because of the lower viscosity (less gasoline needed), and it tends to be a lot cleaner than the WMO. No one gets dipped here, so I don't worry about red fuel. I know of a few forklift places, too, so I'm sure I can get a source lined up.
I've seen some centrifuges online that are pretty cheap ($150 for 60gph), and add a pump and motor ($300), and I could probably put together a cleaning system for under $500. I figure I will rough filter through fabrics and screens into a settling tank. Then, add gasoline, and let it settle some more. Then, probably drain off the bottom until it looks good, and then feed that through a 10 micron filter, then to the centrifuge. I'm gonna set my filters up so that I can backwash them with gasoline to make them last longer.
Do you think 3-4 passes through the centrifuges would clean it up enough? Should I prefilter more before the centrifuge?
Do you guys heat your oil before filtering? I'm off grid, so I don't have a huge amount of electricity available to be heating drums of oil. I figure if I blend before running through the centrifuge, it should be thin enough. Am I off base here, or should that work?
diezelcrazee
Full Access Member
I don't have WATF or WHO very readily available, but think that for sure they will be ahead of WMO because of less contaminates and viscosity. I centrifuge my WMO first to get as much out as possible, figureing that is just less to have stopping up my filter.
I can't answer your questions on the centrifuge as I think your looking at a pressure driven type and I use a motor driven open bowl type. I know that the pressure driven work, just seems that guys say it takes more trips throught the 'fuge to get it cleaned.
I pump through a 1 micron 20" bag filter last step as I transfer into my truck supply tank. I reverse flush it with gas every batch, flush it as I inject the gas into the WMO.
Good luck, wish I had that much hyd oil or trans fluid close by.
I can't answer your questions on the centrifuge as I think your looking at a pressure driven type and I use a motor driven open bowl type. I know that the pressure driven work, just seems that guys say it takes more trips throught the 'fuge to get it cleaned.
I pump through a 1 micron 20" bag filter last step as I transfer into my truck supply tank. I reverse flush it with gas every batch, flush it as I inject the gas into the WMO.
Good luck, wish I had that much hyd oil or trans fluid close by.
velacreations
Full Access Member
yeah, I figure that since I don't need much, when I find a decent source, I'm gonna lock it up by paying a bit for the oil/fluid. No one else in my area is even running on veggie oil, so I don't think I will have any sort of competition, but you never know. I also figure that if I buy the oil and supply a container, they'll put just the nicest stuff in there, not a bunch of water or antifreeze or other nastiness.
Do you heat your oil before the Fuge? I thought that centrifuging last might give the best result, as it can pull it to a much finer grade than a filter.
Does anyone know how much gasoline has to be added to ATF or HF to have the same viscosity as #2?
Do you heat your oil before the Fuge? I thought that centrifuging last might give the best result, as it can pull it to a much finer grade than a filter.
Does anyone know how much gasoline has to be added to ATF or HF to have the same viscosity as #2?
leswhitt
Full Access Member
I've been running W83 but have found that it's a tad thick for my 200k fuel pump so I add another 3 gals to my full 40 gal tank. I've been measuring, cutting, installing wood fooors all day so my math skills are tired but feel free to do the math for me
diezelcrazee
Full Access Member
I've been measuring, cutting, installing wood fooors all day so my math skills are tired but feel free to do the math for me
My math skills arent very good when I'm not tired, so I best leave that alone....
diezelcrazee
Full Access Member
I 'fuge twice, but open bowl is different than pressure driven. I heat when I 'fuge the first time, then I mix the 15% RUG (gas) with it, agitate, let it settle in a bell bottom tank for 48 hours minimum, then 'fuge again but with no heat as it is thinner with the gas, and I aint heating it with gas in it.....
Then filter though a 1 micron filter.With fuging, you arent pluggin up filters, you just have to clean the bowl out. So I think its best to get as much out first before final filtering. Just my way of doing it, may not be the correct or best but its working for me....
velacreations
Full Access Member
yeah, I've seen it done both ways. filter before or after the CF. I kinda see the CF as a really fine filter. Any prefiltering just makes it's job easier.
Of course, the way you do it, I doubt you get much in your 1 micron filter, so that filter should last a long time.
Of course, the way you do it, I doubt you get much in your 1 micron filter, so that filter should last a long time.
Use the Fuge for all your filtering (except significant water seperation)
The fuge is a one time big expense and then no on going expense. Filters are expensive when you start factoring how often you have to replace them if you make any decent amount of fuel.
I have 2 water seperator filters on my current setup. However I don't bother using them. I fuge until I'm happy with the fuel quality. If I noticed any water in my fuel I'd use the seperators, but I haven't had that issue yet
The fuge is a one time big expense and then no on going expense. Filters are expensive when you start factoring how often you have to replace them if you make any decent amount of fuel.
I have 2 water seperator filters on my current setup. However I don't bother using them. I fuge until I'm happy with the fuel quality. If I noticed any water in my fuel I'd use the seperators, but I haven't had that issue yet
Similar threads
