Brakes pedal soft for most ot its travel.

Goofyexponent

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NOt saying that this is your problem, but when my truck started doing that, it was related to the emergency brake system. The arms wouldn't return and the adjusters wouldn't hold their adjustment. I would have to pump the pedal once or twice before I had adequate pressure to come to a stop.

I simply put new E brake cables on it, tore tha adjusters out and cleaned them up and antiseized them. Put it all back together, adjusted the brakes manually and set the parking brake once or twice. Once I released it I NEVER had that problem again.
 

BigRedWeather

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FIXED - SORT OF

Primary Lesson Ford does wacky things with their brake line fittings and parts. Don't assume anything, verify every part and fitting in advance. A flexible line comes down to the rear axle and terminates at a block where the lines to the rear wheels attach. One of them is 3/16", the other is 1/4". So you measure one on one side at 3/16" and go to the auto parts store 25 miles away and get 2 3/16" lines - because obviously Ford would be sensible and keep the line fittings consistetn throughout. Nope. You get home and find that the other one is 1/4" and that requires another trip to the store. But that isn't the end of it. I replace the cylinders with new MotorCraft cylinders. The old one had 3/16" fittings and standard bolts, and the new ones had 1/4" and metric bolts. The new ones did not come with bolts and the old bolts stripped the threads on the new cylinder! Another couple of trips to town, one to a specialty bolt supplier. So, now that I know Ford's bad habit I can address it in the future, but until you know it sure is frustrating.

So after:
-two new cylinders
-new shoes and brake hardware
-cleaning and greasing the places where the shoe contact the backplate
-replacing 2 emergency cables
-verifying the master cylinder was good, by plugging the ports and applying brake pedal for 1 minute, and observing no pedal travel
-bleeding the system

The result:
The brake pedal does engage much higher up off the floor. It used to be that when I braked on a wet road the back right wheel would lock up at 10 MPH. Now that wheel locks up at 30 MPH. So I guess I took 2 steps forward and 1 step back. I will try some more adjustments on the rear brakes.


BigRedWeather
 

79jasper

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Well at least you're making progress. I disassembled my rabs valve earlier, it looks brand new inside. I think mine is a wiring problem. The connector had been rewired by someone using just butt connectors. So I'm gonna clean those up, flush my fluid, clear the code, then see where I'm at.
 

BigRedWeather

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One thing I left off. I disconnected the connector at the master cylinder that disables the RABS valve. I also removed the spring from the RABS valve. My ABS light is always on and I have to RABS. (I wonder if re-connecting it would keep my back right wheel from locking up. Doubt it.)
 
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