BOdy lift

[pedro_8149]

so i picked up a 3" body lift to put in my 1992 f250 auto 4x4. it has stock bushings and dont line up so well so i said screw it and am doin a body lift, but anyways what mods are needed to install this in our trucks i hear they rubs on the driverside fire wall is it easy to fix? and as far as bumpers and all that other jazz along with doin this. i dont wanna hear a whole bunch of ppl saying not to do it cause i am even if i have to band saw em down to 2" what you figuree, i know its been asked 2 million times but finding an answer isnt so easy so a fresh thread made more sense. thanks

 

[Diesel_brad]

Cut them to 2" and you will not have a problem

 

[flareside_thun]

Leave them at 3" and you'll be massaging your firewall with a BFH.

 

[dakotajeep]

Pedro, how's that rig running? If I remember correctly your were running up around 20 psi of boost. Just curious...seems you like to push things to the limit.

Good Luck on the lift!!!

 

[gunz]

Go suspension lift so you frame wont hang down below the body.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

The body-lift is one of my best modifications; everything about the truck is SO MUCH EASIER to work on, plus all the extra clearance under the hood and floor is wonderful.


I like the increased clearance of mine so well that plans are to cut loose the body-mount brackets from the frame and make them taller, thus I can remove the blocks and the cab still sit high.

When I do this, I am also going even taller, probably 4-inches, maybe 5.

I bought the 3-inch kit and installed it, thus the engine contacted the fire-wall; so, I removed the blocks and sawed them down to 2-inch; this solved the contact problem.

Now, since I have the inline engine instead of a V-8, I wish I had of put up with the firewall contact a few weeks, as the 6BT doesn't even come close to touching.



Before you start, get yourself either a Borgeson or Flaming River steering-shaft, else the dilapidated worn-out old factory shaft will nearly un-spline itself.

 

[88 Ford]

The body-lift is one of my best modifications; everything about the truck is SO MUCH EASIER to work on, plus all the extra clearance under the hood and floor is wonderful.


I like the increased clearance of mine so well that plans are to cut loose the body-mount brackets from the frame and make them taller, thus I can remove the blocks and the cab still sit high.

When I do this, I am also going even taller, probably 4-inches, maybe 5.

I bought the 3-inch kit and installed it, thus the engine contacted the fire-wall; so, I removed the blocks and sawed them down to 2-inch; this solved the contact problem.

Now, since I have the inline engine instead of a V-8, I wish I had of put up with the firewall contact a few weeks, as the 6BT doesn't even come close to touching.



Before you start, get yourself either a Borgeson or Flaming River steering-shaft, else the dilapidated worn-out old factory shaft will nearly un-spline itself.

I love my body lift man. I like the stance of it and the added tire clearance. As far as what you need to do after you get it, you will definitely need to knock back the fire wall and lift the bumpers up too. Its all pretty easy stuff plus it adds extra clearance under the hood like he said. So get it man. You will like it.

 

[Squeaky_Wheel]

You will need to either cut the bottom out of your fan shroud, remove it, or switch to electric fans, otherwise your fan will contact the shroud if you don't move your radiator.

Keep an eye on the transmission cooler lines that enter the bottom of the radiator if you decide to not move the radiator.

IIRC you will have to modify your shift linkage by adding about 2 inches of length to the linkage that is connected to the steering column. You may also need to either reshape or extend your 4X4 lever. I know that I had to bend mine when I installed my 2 inch body lift but mine comes through the pan and not the side of the tunnel like yours.

Don't forget to readjust your headlights otherwise you may blind oncoming traffic.

Keep an eye on the length of cables going to your starter, you may have to replace them with longer ones.

X2 on getting a new steering shaft.

X2 on the body lift providing more clearance under the hood which will help if you decide to run an intercooler (i.e. intercooler tubes).

 

[88 Ford]

O ya I forgot about the fan and all the linkage too.

 

[pedro_8149]

thanks guys, i might just cut em down to 2" blocks so i dont have to get a new steering shaft, as i dont want to change that. as far as the contact with the firewall nothing a couple pry bars and or a porta power couldnt fix. dakotajeep she is running strong, i try and keep my boost at a max of 15 for most of the time but once in a while i get excited and hit 19-20psi at about 2800rpm. my newest addition to my truck is a exhaust brake. it works extremly well. but all in all extremly happy with the way its performing. if anyone else has experiances with their 3" body lifts please share..

thanks again, joe

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

You will NEED the steering-shaft, regardless of whether 2-inch or 3-inch.

I know there are a bunch of danger-lovers that are gonna pop in here and claim that it isn't necessary; but, to prevent the likelihood of the body or frame flexing the least bit and the much-too-short factory-shaft dis-connecting from itself, you had best go ahead and get the shaft.

Once you get that old oil-soaked flimsy factory shaft out in the day-light, you ain't gonna want to trust it anyways.

 

[pennsylvaniabo]

A cherokee xj steering shaft is a great junkyard upgrade if you do not want to pay the $$$$ of a borgeson or flaming river....

 

[Cincinnati Guy]

A cherokee xj steering shaft is a great junkyard upgrade if you do not want to pay the $$$$ of a borgeson or flaming river....

More info?

 

[pennsylvaniabo]

It would require some fab work for a ford application, but the XJ shaft has 2 u-joint joints. Simply modify for length and application. I have one in my chevy and it is pretty much bolt-in and gets rid of sloppy rag joints etc. Or you could use one from the older fords that also use u-joints.

here you go

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[pennsylvaniabo]

This shows the u-joint on the ford shafts....just use 2 and make your slip joint

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