Blizzard air.

[towcat]

Yep, I need to get that sig updated. It’s not a PSD IC, its aftermarket. The core dimensions are about the same size as the one towcat is running I believe 28x12x4. I think the two big differences between his and mine are that mine is 4” thick, and it’s a bar and plate design, while I think his 3” thick, and its tube and fin. Course, he’ll have to confirm, this is just what I heard from an ATS guy.

Lots of pro’s and cons as far as tube and fin vs bar and plate ICs. I don’t think one is better than the other, just different designs. I also think the PSD IC is a great way to go since so many folks have gone that route with good results. I just wanted to try something different. And get this, I didn’t even have to remove my bumper to mount the IC. I just tucked it up there and figured out how I wanted to mount it to the radiator support, and drilled some holes. I also had to remove, slightly flatten, and re-install the center support to give me enough clearance. I leaned more towards towcats design cuz I really like having as much radiator exposed as possible. And then a guy here locally had this IC up for sale, and it seemed like a good one to try out. He supposedly had it custom made by a shop that buys the cores, and welds on the end tanks. But I wouldn’t be surprised if it was straight out of china or something. Was gonna put it on a 454 gasser project, and decided to go another way. I figured what the heck, if I try it, and don’t like it, I can always mount one from a PSD.

The ATS guy is partially right.....its tube and fin allright, and inside the tube, there also another fin setup. they definitely had the "heat sink" theory in mind on mime. Personally, I am a little concerned on the restriction over time so the CDR is not going to stay. When I get back to CA, i will be doing the RDT conversion just to keep the oil out of the IC. I previously had the same issues with my GN, and I should have did the RDT when I did the first install. As far as increasing the water temps? My theory is anything infront of the radiator is going to cut down on airflow and the obvious results is higher coolant temps. I am in 100deg heat these last couple of weeks and I did hear the fan kick in more frequently, but that is about all.

 

[Nickbf2504x4]

Rob! can you give me a ballpark guess of how many Mr. Franklins :Sly you got wrapped up in this little boost cooler project? (sorry if im picking a scab )

Towcat - what is a liquid to air (or vice versa) intercooler?

 

[towcat]

Towcat - what is a liquid to air (or vice versa) intercooler?

You're entering some really trick stuff here.....
chilled water rather than air is used to take the heat off the IC.....there's a GN out there running such a setup. But he used his AC system to chill the water/coolant. biggest issue, weight. Its a heavy system and is really meant for 1/4mile stuff. not very practical for our trucks due to the fact that 1/4 mie is nothing for our trucks. Its the slow hard pulls up a grade that will wipe out an IC's thermal efficency. Bottom line, we have trade off's . a bigger IC will block radiator airflow and the heat the IC sheds will go directly into the radiator. BUT, too small of a IC is not good either since it will have soaked up the heat already and can't get rid of the stuff soon enough. My ATS effectively blocks 1/3rd of the radiator. I also have a R134 AC system too. I have already lost my AC on this lateset trip out to TX due to the AC pressures spiking and venting from the heat and idling. Electric fans are definitely in order when I get back. But they are only meant to supplement idle and low-speed airflow so the IC and AC will have air going through the fins in 100deg ambient temps. The clutch fan setup is still to be used for engine cooling.

 

[Nickbf2504x4]

First of all let me say that i feel guilty with the amount of knowledge and satisfaction i get from this site! Thanks to all of you (you know who you are) that provide such quick and knowledgable answers and are willing to put up with a kid like me... ok now i will continue to harass you guys!

So not to take away from Rob's beautiful Blizard air intake hat would it be possible to simply rotate my turbo's outlet upward over the current hat, then rotate it so it would accept the return pipe from the IC, and just get creative with the piping? This IDI has become the all consuming thing in my life...just like a good mistress should im trying to get as much done as possible before i become a broke college student!

P.S. towcat...when were you going to be coming through so-cal, i assume you are gonna take the I-5 north? You, scotty and I should have a little west coast IDI rally of our own!

All else are invited of course...and Rob we will have a rocky mountain IDI rally after august!

 

[towcat]

So not to take away from Rob's beautiful Blizard air intake hat would it be possible to simply rotate my turbo's outlet upward over the current hat, then rotate it so it would accept the return pipe from the IC, and just get creative with the piping? This IDI has become the all consuming thing in my life...just like a good mistress should im trying to get as much done as possible before i become a broke college student!

Better re-read the "let's talk IC's" post.....you could rotate the compressor housing, but you will more than likely tear the rubber "O" ring that seals the housing to the turbo cartridge housing. you have to unbolt the compressor housing completely and gently "tap" it off. Its a pretty close fit. If you are running on a budget, save up your money for next summer so you can down the truck long enough to do the job right because there's lots of little "bugs" that will pop out on one of these surgeries.

 

[F350camper]

Rob! can you give me a ballpark guess of how many Mr. Franklins :Sly you got wrapped up in this little boost cooler project? (sorry if im picking a scab )

About 6 bills. not too bad all things considered.

Is the boost control home grown or store bought? How or where do I look for one. I got to turn up the fuel screw some more.

its a store bought compressed air regulator, that’s being used as a home grown boost controller. You gotta be careful though, they’re really touchy. I only use mine to bring the stock banks setting from 9 to 10.5 or 11. It helps clean up some of the coal at top end floored.

OK, I finally got a chance to burn some fuel. WOW. Best way to describe the first impression is, “its like having a rubber band attached to the end of your pyro needle”. I had to work the living crap out of it to get 900°. Now I’m going 80 or so, so I let off the go peddle and the pyro snaps down at least twice a quick as before. I feel more power, but that’s totally overshadowed by not needing to watch temps. Cant wait to put a load on her. Coolant temps holding strong, but it was only about 80° out.

I think i need to find another 1/2 flat on the fuel screw.

 

[towcat]

where's your boost gauge plumbed? before or after IC? Those numbers is good to hear. I'm doing 6lbs at the most, so I got alot of room still
My boost gauge is plumbed at the base of the intake bell adapter to the intake.

 

[F350camper]

My boost gauge is plumbed at the base of the intake bell adapter to the intake.

Mine's right at the intake, in my intake hat.

 

[yARIC008]

Looks pretty awesome Rob. Wish i had enough time an space to do something like that. Hope she runs good

 

[tuckerd1]

I think i need to find another 1/2 flat on the fuel screw.

Upgraded IP & injecror time! That's all good news to hear!

Don

 

[F350camper]

Well, I had to pull the IC pipes and put a bead of epoxy on the ends. I had one hose that kept blowing off. It was only one hose, but I beaded all of the pipe ends as insurance. The culprit was the one going right into the intake hat, the coupler stayed firmly attached to the hat (already had a bead cast into it), but kept blowing off the pipe. I think a combination of the slight engine rotation, and boost just popped it right off.

With the beads on there everything is holding strong so far. I should have done this from the start, but I thought I would see if I could get away without it. Oh well, now I know it’s worth the effort.

 

[towcat]

rob-
If it blows off again, try hairspray on the hose innards. Drop by the goat dept., I was reading up where they were popping hoses off at the 50psi mark. they were talking about using hairspray to tack it up a little better as well as some HP hoses. Can't hurt to raid the otherr camp's tricks

 

[F350camper]

hmm, that is a neat idea. I'll keep that close in mind. thanks for the tip.

I'm also thinking a hump hose in this location would hold better. I think that would allow some travel, instead of fighting against the engine torque.

But all is holding well for now, so I'll just let it develop and see what happens.

 

[F350camper]

The beads on the ends of the pipes seems to have done the trick, all hoses holding strong.

 

[budtoh3zo]

Good to hear you got the kinks out of it