Best paint for truck frames?

[Highridge]

I bought a flatbed for my truck but before I put it on I need to take care of the serious rust problem going on. I've narrowed it down to POR-15, Rust Bullet, or SEM rust converter. Anyone have experience with these? This truck has seen its fair share of new england winters so you can imagaine how bad it is. I figured now is the perfect time to rehab from the cab back once I get the bed off.

 

[freebird01]

ive heard good things about rust bullet...never used SEM...i have used POR-15 and its great stuff but you got to follow the prep word for word or it will just flake off.

and POR you have to top coat it.

Eastwood makes some good stuff too ive seen used. a friend used it in the floor of his samurai and worked quite well.

 

[93turbo_animal]

http://www.tooltopia.com/magnet-pai...utm_term=MPCUCP9901&utm_campaign=shopzilla_r1

Heres what I'm going to try Stacey David from gearz and trucks recomends the stuff and it sounds just like por-15 but with out all the prep work other then a clean frame

 

[RLDSL]

the SEM is what I used on my roof ( After wire wheeling and grinding to the point where I didn't want to go any further or I'd have had a convertable ) and the frame up front where it is exposed so I could paint it to match my winch bumper. Worked quite well. That is what the local body shop supply carries, it's not cheap. but I've had a qt just for a while, it seems to stretch quite a ways

 

[Optikalillushun]

bronco guys on FSB seem to love rustbullet. we have used POR15 on our fairlane it wasnt bad. prep work, we just wire wheel'd the rust and cleaned the surface. so far its holding up but for a work truck id opt for something else.

either products will be worth a look.

 

[Highridge]

Yeah I heard the POR15 breaks down if it sees direct sunlight too. DieselPower had an article last year I think where they used the SEM on a 97 F350. It was a 2 part system. The first layer was for the rust which bonded it to the second layer, which was another SEM product. The photos looked great and it was a bit cheaper than POR if I remember, I just dont know if it would hold up as good.

 

[Highridge]

Also, anyone have any idea how much is needed for the frame down? Like all the axles and springs, etc? I was thinking a gallon but have never done this.

 

[Highridge]

http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/ford/0905dp_1997_ford_f350_underbody_rust_removal/index.html

Heres the dieselpower link. This is what turned me onto the SEM product. It's also about $50 cheaper than POR15 and Rustbullet, which are both around $140 a gallon. Hopefully if the weather stays nice I'll take the bed off and then I can decide which product is best.

 

[Diesel_brad]

I like EASTWOODS stuff

 

[papastruck]

I used POR on my '73. Hasn't seen a MA winter yet, but I gave it a couple good whacks with a ratchet and didn't see any chips. Looks impressive. My recollection from their literature is that the color gets funky in direct sunlight, not that the protection necessarily breaks down. I figured if the frame is getting exposed to too much direct sunlight, you have a lot bigger problems than the frame coating! At Any rate, I just had some rattle-can black I used after letting it dry for a few hours.

Applying it was a PIA. x2 on the surface prep. The surface has to be COMPLETELY clean and free of oils, or it just beads up. I'm pretty sure I used less than a full gallon for the whole frame.

Gotta love the MA climate.

 

[Highridge]

The Eastwoods stuff looks good too. Little more expensive then the rest of them since you need the rust converter first then the top coat.

 

[Diesel_brad]

The Eastwoods stuff looks good too. Little more expensive then the rest of them since you need the rust converter first then the top coat.

Somewhere i saw a comparison of por15 and the eastwood on a hood. The por15 had rust come thru it in 6 months.

My brother did his frame on his 94 2 winters ago with por15. It was preped per directions. 6 months after it was applied the rust stared coming thru. He was pissed