Belt driven fuel pump discussion

[Cant Write]

Now that it is getting cold out, do you just operate on diesel until the circulating oil is up to engine temp, then switch to WVO?

Any concerns of the WVO getting into your crankcase over time? Or wreaking any havoc on components just as it did to the needle bearings you used diesel on to free up? I did read you have a spare engine.

Great project and I hope you have much success running WVO. Especially with your line of work. Please keep us updated through winter.

 

[chickenpot]

Now that it is getting cold out, do you just operate on diesel until the circulating oil is up to engine temp, then switch to WVO?

Already have had a few below freezing mornings, and yes I'm driving about 10 mins on straight diesel through the factory fuel system to warm the oil up. Like i said with this pump setup and heat exchanger it heats the whole tank up pretty fast. My whole idea with the high flow pump and return/regulator was to have 90% of the oil just go pump-FPHE-return to tank. So far, i've played it pretty safe with my switch times to oil, and it's been smooth.

Any concerns of the WVO getting into your crankcase over time? Or wreaking any havoc on components just as it did to the needle bearings you used diesel on to free up? I did read you have a spare engine.

No more concerned am i about the wvo in the crankcase than I am about diesel fuel. In fact the way it's set up, the only connection between the wvo and the engine is through the injection pump, so it would have to be past the piston rings to make it into the case. The factory fuel system does not deadhead as part of my design, the filter head outlet simply loops back to the diesel tank when switched to veg oil. so there theoretically shouldn't be any more pressure/risk of rupture on the mechanical lift pump diaphragm.

As far as bearings and parts gumming up, what I've seen so far is the wvo has to sit exposed to oxygen for a while for it to start to gum up. fresh and circulating I don't necessarily find it a concern at the moment for the pumps but i have thought about it. Biggest thing is i like to make aure the IP is completely purged and flushed with diesel

I do have 2 spare engines now, and possibly a third one i just have to go pick up. I'm into hoarding parts especially when they are obsolete.. So the engine in this truck is going to run until it cant anymore and hopefully doesn't have a catastrophic failure but if so no big deal. I plan on pulling one of the engines into the shop this winter and tearing down/inspecting/ resealing, to have a known good sealed engine sitting on reserve, vs just a known good running engine. ya know

 

[Cant Write]

There is a post on TDI club where he has over 280k documented miles on ALH TDI, 150k-ish on a ‘99 6.5 cheb and 110k-ish on a ‘06 mega cab.

He had no related problems and cites meticulous cleaning and de-watering to his success. And long commutes.

I’m excited for you and what you mention regarding gumming and crank case makes perfect sense. All the best!!

 

[Saoldric]

Great stuff, fun read . A question about what type of valve solinoids did you get?

I'm looking for one, to wire one up with a delay on the fuel return line so I can wait for the system to purge and keep my diesel pure-ish.

 

[chickenpot]

Great stuff, fun read . A question about what type of valve solinoids did you get?

I'm looking for one, to wire one up with a delay on the fuel return line so I can wait for the system to purge and keep my diesel pure-ish.

Im using greasecar.com 3 port valve bodies which use Hydraforce sv98-t39s 12v spool valves.

On the switch to wvo, i hit the supply and the return at the same time. When purging, i hit the supply back to diesel then wait a mile or so then flip the return back to the diesel tank.

If you're not too worried about introducing chinese electronics on your rig, a few lines of code running on an arduino uno and a 5v trigger relay would work well for timing your return switch

 

[chickenpot]

6k+ miles oil update:
Pump from seal started leaking decent amount so i pulled it apart and inspected it. everything looked great no wear on the pump gears or shafts/bearings. For longevity I replaced the front bearing, which i found at mcmaster. 11/16 OD 1/2 ID needle bearing. I also replaced the seal from mcmaster, basic 1"OD 1/2" ID oil seal. there was enough room in there to double up the seals, which I did. It's nice and tight now and didnt leak for the 800 miles or so until today, when my chinsy homemade pulley lost the V belt part. I heard the rather faint noise going down the highway, got nervous but everything kept running. the belt must have stayed running on the 1/4 or so of the v part left. Didnt know something was wrong until i tried switching to oil on my way home, when the engine pretty quickly sucked the IP dry and killed it. Was able to re prime and roll start it by switching back to diesel and dropping into 4th. Had just started slowing down on the shoulder when she caught again and took me home. Bad moment, need to make my stuff more sturdy this time.
it was a trimmed down stamped v pulley from the farm store, and actually expected it to fail at some point. I purchased a much heavier steel v belt idler this evening and tomorrow I will try on the lathe to graft it onto the alternator pulley.

Mcmaster oil pressure relief has proven to be reliable, frantz TP filters are still working great, heat exchanger is working great in cold weather, and have still been playing it safe with purge times. I did have to cold start (35f or so) on oil the other day cause i was out of diesel and didnt realize it, truck was on an incline too. IP wasnt super happy with that but it got me rolling to the pump to grab some more diesel fuel.

 

[chickenpot]

Pulley Pt. II, been on there a week or so, working ok so far