Belt driven fuel pump discussion

chickenpot

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Hi everyone. Been lurking for a while after grabbing a 1991 f350 dually 5spd cab+chassis for pretty much the price of the drivetrain. Drove it home 3 hours. Anyway have a few good sources for clean WVO, want to run my truck on it.
Little bit of background- I work as a food service equipment tech and have an extremely large junkyard of old equipment, in particular countless "frymaster" style cooking oil filters/pumps/heaters. Cooking oil transfer pumps of many styles, gerotor, driven gear, the little nylon ball ones... almost all mounted to AC motors- pumps specifically designed for filtering and moving around 250+ degree oil at a 100% duty cycle.
My idea is somewhat straightforward- I want to use one of these waste oil pump bodies as the circulating/lift pump on a 2 tank system, driven off the engine v-belt. I have seen people experimenting with power steering pumps for this purpose but not exactly what I am thinking. My truck is a non-AC model, so it has a dual groove PS pulley, and gobs of engine bay/ accessory drive space in that area. The idea is to run a stout gear pump off the v belt using a 12v clutch witch a standard keyed bore(https://coastalhyd.com/pitts-10881-electric-clutch/) and couple it via lovejoy or chain inside a fabbed bracket.

The problem that I am wondering about is how to regulate the fuel pressure town to mech lift pump levels and have a bypass return. Would some of the return style fuel pressure regulators found on summit hold up to the task, or do i risk pushing too much pressure through them using basically a hydraulic pump? Does anyone know of any kind of stout return style "fuel" regulators (or hydraulic oil pressure bypass solutions) that may be implemented in this instance? Hoping to have a creative discussion regarding this topic, not many people around understand this strange desire that inflicts those who find their way to this site.

Cheers
 

BlindAmbition

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I haven't researched it, but I'd be finding information about several specs:

Regulator input pressure ranges

Regulator specs for gallons per hour - Say your input pressure is 100 psi and you're regulating down to 7psi for the IP, but you're flowing 300 gph, can the regulator return that much fuel?

Temp operating range, carbonator pumps may not be able to handle that high of temp
 

chickenpot

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I haven't researched it, but I'd be finding information about several specs:

Regulator input pressure ranges

Regulator specs for gallons per hour - Say your input pressure is 100 psi and you're regulating down to 7psi for the IP, but you're flowing 300 gph, can the regulator return that much fuel?

Temp operating range, carbonator pumps may not be able to handle that high of temp
So, i am not talking about the procon carbonator pumps. Im talking waste oil transfer pumps. Most of the driven gear ones are "viking" brand.
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This is an example of a transfer pump unit i put together for waste oil collection purposes. Its not exact but i timed it filling up a 1 gallon oil jug, and it flows a bit less than 3 gallons per minute.

It being a gear pump means it presumably is capable of hydraulic system pressures at a lower flow rate. maybe i can find a hydraulic pressure relief that can be tuned to suit the fuel system
 

BlindAmbition

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That thing looks pretty robust. Any chance you've got a part number or something? I've got 5 big rig oil centrifuges I want to run off of one pump, that looks like it might do it. Would mean I could cycle through a 55gallon drum pretty quickly.

IDI needs something like 30 gallons per hour flow, most of which is used for cooling the injectors, at least that's what info floats around commonly from what I've seen.

Looking through Holley regulator specs they don't seem to list max PSI inlet or gph.
 

chickenpot

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That thing looks pretty robust. Any chance you've got a part number or something? I've got 5 big rig oil centrifuges I want to run off of one pump, that looks like it might do it. Would mean I could cycle through a 55gallon drum pretty quickly.

IDI needs something like 30 gallons per hour flow, most of which is used for cooling the injectors, at least that's what info floats around commonly from what I've seen.

Looking through Holley regulator specs they don't seem to list max PSI inlet or gph.
Yeah i think a similar pump would drain 55 gallons pretty quickly. Not sure on a part #, im currently out of town but can provide some reference to the different kinds of fryer filter pumps i have laying around when i get back to the shop.

my plan is basically this- belt driven pump pushing the oil full flow through a frantz style TP cartridge filter after the filter i plan to put the regulator/bypass then on to the IP.

but i just had the idea to use a diaphram style water pressure regulator (i think i have some around that are rated for hot water) that has a lower range (1-12psi or so). I think if i make a tee at the inlet of the regulator and send one side off to some kind of restrictor/spring relief valve that gives the oil enough restriction to push through the regulator but has enough relief so that the pressure never deadheads against the regulator. following still? lol this stuff can be a bit hard to describe
 

BlindAmbition

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Frantz may not be able to do full flow, a Motorguard should be able to. You'd possibly want to change the internal plastic bits out for metal on that one though.

I'll be running a Frantz for my WMO setup

Tank - 3 tank selector valve - 10 micron/water separator - transfer pump - Frantz/Motorguard - CAT 2 Micron (to catch any possible TP remnants) - IP
 
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chickenpot

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Here are some of the examples of the pumps i have laying around. @BlindAmbition there are some of the serials for the viking pumps
 

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chickenpot

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The rusty one i just found out in the yard today. currently have it apart and soaking in diesel to free up the needle bearings that are stuck from old shortening. it might be the contender for the fuel pump on the truck
 

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chickenpot

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So ive got the rusty one stripped down to the pump, front mount/bearing housing, and the shaft. I think this is the contender for the fuel pump. it's a driven gear pump, and looks pretty good inside once the old veg oil/shortening was washed out. i like this as a base because the front of the motor provides a mounting solution for the clutch as well as provides another bearing. I dont want a chance of this being underbuilt..

The only problem.. is that the motor shaft is 11/16.. good luck finding a manufactured clutch shaft bore in that fraction.. but i knew that before i tore the motor apart. 5/8 keyed, however, is a common shaft bore size in the pitts clutches. The plan is to turn down this shaft to 5/8 and mill a 3/16 key slot. next need to order the clutch, probably will be a pay cycle before that happens. Even if nobody is on the same vane as I am i plan at this point to use this thread as documentation
 

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BlindAmbition

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Definitively an interesting way of going about doing a fuel pump. Beats paying $300 for some of these nicer pumps if you've got those gear pumps laying around.
 

chickenpot

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Definitively an interesting way of going about doing a fuel pump. Beats paying $300 for some of these nicer pumps if you've got those gear pumps laying around.
I agree, i just dont trust the electric options. esp a 12v gear pump.. dont have faith in the motors. The $300 or so i will be spending is on the clutch which should last a lifetime
 

BlindAmbition

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Would a clutch from a York AC compressor fit?

*Looked it up further, York is conical, likely wouldn't fit easily. Would be a good alternative or even a junkyard pull and bring costs down if you could make it fit.
 

chickenpot

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Would a clutch from a York AC compressor fit?

*Looked it up further, York is conical, likely wouldn't fit easily. Would be a good alternative or even a junkyard pull and bring costs down if you could make it fit.
So what's funny is, i actually have an OE clutch from a york here, single v belt with the huge flywheel. i pulled it out of a late 70s f250 at the junkyard and grabbed all the brackets for it as well. i converted the york to a serp setup for my 95 Yukon OBA project, and the york clutch sat on the shelf. I was already thinking about how to use it all day today before i ever read your response haha. I was thinking about what kind of tolerances i could get in a non lathe turned taper and keyway cut with angle grinder


thing is HEAVY
 

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