sjwelds
Full Access Member
On mine the cable that controls the blend door was siezed so the door wasn't going all the way toward heat.
barely any heat in cab, seems radiator/water pump below temp as well?
- Thread starter xekon
- Start date
I was about to suggest something like that. Maybe it’s a mechanical control problem. I’m not familiar with the system on these, but I know old 70s Dodge used an actual water valve connected by a cable to the hvac controls, to cut off heat to the heater core. The van I had, the valve was gone (probably went bad) and it had two ball valves under the hood you had to open to get heat.
jwalterus
Made in America
1) physically check the blend door, if it was sitting, maybe it's stuck on cold or otherwise disconnected/not working
2) check that your heater core has the foam seal around it intact, it's surprising, but that 1/4" gap can actually keep you from getting any heat
2) check that your heater core has the foam seal around it intact, it's surprising, but that 1/4" gap can actually keep you from getting any heat
With my experience, I would say something is up....
On the previous 92, it would get warm in the cab, and I know it had an issue with the controls.....
On the current 88, it's like Jasper's PSD.... it gets hot nought I surprised the dash hasn't melted.....
Both would warm up sitting idle, with temps in the 30, they would both kick off high idle / timing advance in just over 5 minutes....
Both have a new radiator, coolant, and hoses...... and when at running temp, the upper radiator hose, top tank and heater hoses should be uncomfortable to touch for more than a second or two....
With the 88, we've had a couple mornings close to 20, and the 88 will get hotter than my P71, and my P71 will run you out in the winter, and freeze you in the summer (I can fog the outside of the windows over when it 95 and humid)
The only vehicle I've had any issue getting up to temperature is my 6.0PSD. If the ambient temperatures are in the teens or lower, it will not get up to temperature. But, this was after the EGR Delete, before, it would warm up fine.
On the previous 92, it would get warm in the cab, and I know it had an issue with the controls.....
On the current 88, it's like Jasper's PSD.... it gets hot nought I surprised the dash hasn't melted.....
Both would warm up sitting idle, with temps in the 30, they would both kick off high idle / timing advance in just over 5 minutes....
Both have a new radiator, coolant, and hoses...... and when at running temp, the upper radiator hose, top tank and heater hoses should be uncomfortable to touch for more than a second or two....
With the 88, we've had a couple mornings close to 20, and the 88 will get hotter than my P71, and my P71 will run you out in the winter, and freeze you in the summer (I can fog the outside of the windows over when it 95 and humid)
The only vehicle I've had any issue getting up to temperature is my 6.0PSD. If the ambient temperatures are in the teens or lower, it will not get up to temperature. But, this was after the EGR Delete, before, it would warm up fine.
xekon
Registered User
Thanks guys really appreciate the responses.
The fan works perfectly, its only the temperature of the air that is the problem.
I removed the heater core cover from behind the glove box, once the truck has warmed up that heater core is HOT, I cannot keep my hand on it for even 2 seconds, its really hot.
When I take the heater core cover and hold it in place, the heat out of the defrost still feels barely warm. I checked the operation of the blend door, and it appears to be working fully, however when I try to get my hand in there and feel around the edge of the door, the top and bottom feel sealed but the far edge along the side feels like theres a 2 inch gap....
even with the cover off inside, i still cannot fully see the blend door, only just barely at an angle, im guessing I have to open the cover up under the hood to look at it further?
The fan works perfectly, its only the temperature of the air that is the problem.
I removed the heater core cover from behind the glove box, once the truck has warmed up that heater core is HOT, I cannot keep my hand on it for even 2 seconds, its really hot.
When I take the heater core cover and hold it in place, the heat out of the defrost still feels barely warm. I checked the operation of the blend door, and it appears to be working fully, however when I try to get my hand in there and feel around the edge of the door, the top and bottom feel sealed but the far edge along the side feels like theres a 2 inch gap....
even with the cover off inside, i still cannot fully see the blend door, only just barely at an angle, im guessing I have to open the cover up under the hood to look at it further?
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
xekon
Registered User
Got great heat in the cab again, there was an ink pin stopping the blend door from closing the last couple of inches!
Now I just need to replace the clutch fan.
Now I just need to replace the clutch fan.
david85
Full Access Member
Sweet! Glad you got it figured out.
From personal experience, I never had much problem getting heat out of any 80s ford trucks. Ranger, F150, and my F250 all did fairly well. The ranger probably did best since the heater core was the same size but it had a smaller cab to heat up.
From personal experience, I never had much problem getting heat out of any 80s ford trucks. Ranger, F150, and my F250 all did fairly well. The ranger probably did best since the heater core was the same size but it had a smaller cab to heat up.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Figured there was something stuck.
We had a member pull out a couple pens, set of keys, and some other stuff. Lol
Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
We had a member pull out a couple pens, set of keys, and some other stuff. Lol
Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
Alwaysreadyrob
2002 7.3 POWERSTROKE 4x4
What kind of fan will you replace with ? A hayden flex fan work on the IDIs ?
79jasper
Chickenhawk
No.....
Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
Glad you found the heater issue.
Just a side note regarding fans. I live in SoCal, and we get pretty hot out here, and I drive some steep mountain roads daily. I kept having overheat issues, bad fan clutch, and replaced with the heavy duty clutch, which means it is basically on all the time, even in winter. In the mountains we're pretty cold most mornings, between 28*F-40*F(Hey it's SoCal... 40* is cold!) The heater does struggle to produce in winter with my set-up, but does clear frosty windshields within appx 10m. By the time the IP cold idle kicks down, the frost is melting and wipers can move it off.
Going down the hill loses all of my minor heat built during warm up, however, once on the flats, it comes back, and if doing hills, I have to turn down the heat box.
My biggest problem is having to replace the heater cores. They only last about a year before they start leaking. Although a very simple replacement, It's really annoying. Been getting my cores from Napa, and get the best ones I can buy according to them but they still fail. Have replaced 4 in 4 years. Any suggestions?
Just a side note regarding fans. I live in SoCal, and we get pretty hot out here, and I drive some steep mountain roads daily. I kept having overheat issues, bad fan clutch, and replaced with the heavy duty clutch, which means it is basically on all the time, even in winter. In the mountains we're pretty cold most mornings, between 28*F-40*F(Hey it's SoCal... 40* is cold!) The heater does struggle to produce in winter with my set-up, but does clear frosty windshields within appx 10m. By the time the IP cold idle kicks down, the frost is melting and wipers can move it off.
Going down the hill loses all of my minor heat built during warm up, however, once on the flats, it comes back, and if doing hills, I have to turn down the heat box.
My biggest problem is having to replace the heater cores. They only last about a year before they start leaking. Although a very simple replacement, It's really annoying. Been getting my cores from Napa, and get the best ones I can buy according to them but they still fail. Have replaced 4 in 4 years. Any suggestions?
Capt,
I wonder if you are having electrolysis issues in the core. Might want to ground the core and see if it helps. Calvin @towcat just did this on one of his trucks..
I wonder if you are having electrolysis issues in the core. Might want to ground the core and see if it helps. Calvin @towcat just did this on one of his trucks..
Crazy that it occurs within a year on a vehicle!! I work in boating industry, and totally "get" it.
Weird in a fresh water application and stray current.
BTW- these are aluminum... how does a non-conductive metal corrode through electrolysis, and how would grounding help? What is actually being grounded? Engine block?
I'm not sure to even guess where to ground this?
Weird in a fresh water application and stray current.
BTW- these are aluminum... how does a non-conductive metal corrode through electrolysis, and how would grounding help? What is actually being grounded? Engine block?
I'm not sure to even guess where to ground this?
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Aluminum is very conductive. Lol
Basically you add a ground to the heater core.
Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
Basically you add a ground to the heater core.
Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
Similar threads
