Banks PowerPack install w/pics -- NA 7.3L

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Brianedwardss

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Recently I was able to pick up a Banks Power Pack lid for $20 off CL. But, after a tireless search of the web for any information regarding what filter or any other info, I found that information about this setup is severely lacking. So, it was time to see what I could figure out on my own. This is the lid I'm talking about.

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Measuring the air box with the Banks lid on it, I came up with a height of 5-11/16". I needed a filter that was close to that. My goal was to stick with a paper media, and use a cheaper filter for the experimental phase. So, I was off to the Autozone right down the street.

The tallest 'classic round' filter they have is an STP SA3549. It's 5.47" tall, and is 12.00" outside diameter... Turns out it was perfect. The filter only costs $5.59, and looks huge.

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Here's some comparison's to the stock (Motorcraft) filter. The OEM filter appears to be a much more dense filter.

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Another

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More

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Upon putting the experimental filter in the box, the lid went on, seemingly without contacting the filter. So, now I had to see how big the gap was in there. I stuck a piece of silly putty / play-dough on top of the filter and put the lid back on. When I pulled it off, it was completely smashed flat. I did this several times. Everytime, the dough was smashed to less than a millimeter thickness, more like the width of a piece of copy paper. The air filter was almost too perfect if that's possible. I'm sure with the lid tightened down, it would probably work great, but I wanted to be sure and not take chances.

So, I cut the foam wrap that was on my Motorcraft OEM filter in half horizontally, and stretched it over the new filter, leaving half of it above the top.

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another

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I pulled the foam up as much as was possible, and since it was stretched on there, it naturally pulled the top of itself towards the center. When I put the Banks lid on, it created a perfect smashed seal for the top of the filter.

Next on the list was finding a sealed washer to go in the bolt hole of the Banks lid, one that wouldn't let water in. Here's looking down into the top of the Banks lid. One can see how water could easily pool up in there, and cause major issues if it was allowed to leak into the intake.

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The first thing I did was see what the OEM lid used for a seal. Turns out it uses a rubber-sealed washer, and is removable. Here it is removed from the OEM lid

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I attempted to install it in the Banks lid, and it fit perfect.

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bottom

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Next thing I needed was a shorter bolt, so it was off to the farm store 2 miles away. I was looking for a bolt that would be pleasant for the fingers, and also use something other than a wrench. I decided on an Allen head bolt with a nice collar to grasp, and a smooth shank for the rubber washer to seal to. I tightened the OEM bolt on with the Banks lid installed, looked like a 2-1/2" bolt would do.

Here's the bolt:

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Threads were the same

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This bolt was perfect in alot of ways; it was easy on the fingers, an allen key fits in the hole in the lid perfectly, where a wrench doesn't, the allen key can be kept in the glove box easily too, and it had the smooth shank with plenty of threads to keep the lid on tight without fatiugue.

Here's the bolt, with a small washer added, installed in the Banks lid & on the truck.

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I had to route my booster vacuum line down by the GP controller, and cut a small piece of stubborn firewall insulation off to make everything happy.

Here's the final result:

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I took it on a nice test drive. I ended up tightening the bolt one more time to cure some droning noise, but after everything was tight, it drove like a dream.

Here's the parts used:

-Banks Powerpack Lid
-STP SA3549 Air FIlter (autozone $5.59)
-3/8"-16 x 2-1/2" course-thread Allen-head bolt (Wilco $3.20)
-An M10 washer (or any other small washer)
-Sealed rubber/metal washer out of stock lid
-38"x 1-1/4"" piece of light stretchy foam to seal <1/64" gap between lid & filter
-5/16" Allen Key to keep in glove box

Total project expense - less than $30
 
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flareside_thun

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What kind of butt dyno difference did you notice, if any? I always heard of cutting the soup bowl out of the factory lids (which I did and noticed immediate differences) so I wondered why Banks basically went backwards.
 

Brianedwardss

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Well, it feels basically the same, maybe a smidgin' quieter than the stock lid with the soup-bowl cut off. I think Banks Idea was to use a bigger filter, and help force the air into the engine with the smooth lines of their soup-bowl design. The real test will be how well the truck climbs sustained 6-8% hills here in Oregon.
 

Brianedwardss

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I searched every site I could think of, and no where could I find definitive info about the Powerpack. Maybe it's not such a cool upgrade? :dunno
 

SparkandFire

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I think the powerpack upgrade came out, as most things for our trucks, back before Al Gore had a chance to give us the internet, therefore data will be lacking...

Seems to me, if I remember right, Mel posted up some time back that the powerpack had some actual banks dyno improvement numbers associated with it, at one point...

Of course you're not likely to find anyone at banks who could tell you anything at all about this. They're all too busy selling high dollar stuff to the big boys to care much for us old timers. :rolleyes:
 

Agnem

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I wish I still had mine. I sold it to Darrin Tosh many years back. Pair that up with a Hypermax cold air intake, and you have a no brainer NA performance improvement.

Excellent job on this post. A tech article worthy of prominance.
 
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