Back In the Saddle

[IDIoit]

russ has a set of 020 turbo pistons.
most machine shops have a lathe to cut them down.
theres enough meat on them.

may i suggest sending the slugs (if you need them) to R&D and have them ceramic coated.

if youre going to a new cam, make sure you get comp 910 valve springs!

heres my latest build.
lots of bells and whistles, but most of the specs you will need are here.
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...e-long-awaited-engine-build&highlight=finally

 

[asmith]

russ has a set of 020 turbo pistons.
most machine shops have a lathe to cut them down.
theres enough meat on them.

may i suggest sending the slugs (if you need them) to R&D and have them ceramic coated.

if youre going to a new cam, make sure you get comp 910 valve springs!

heres my latest build.
lots of bells and whistles, but most of the specs you will need are here.
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...e-long-awaited-engine-build&highlight=finally

Thank you for your reply.
the pistons I was looking for actually have the wrist pin .01" higher to lower the compression a little bit, but mostly to make up for taking material off the deck of the block if needed.

I have actually been following your build and will hopefully be doing a very similar build. no roller rockers, but the other stuff is close.
did you send your pistons to R&D for the ceramic coating? mind me asking what it cost? you can PM me if you would rather.

I saw you went with new bearings, but did not see a name or part number, do you have any of that? not really sure what is the way to go with those.

 

[IDIoit]

i got my bearings from my local machine shop,
i had them check the crank out and ordered the bearings.
they were .010 under, and i dont have a part number.
this is an item you must wait for the crank to be inspected for size, and roundness.
just in case you have to get it turned.

same deal with the rods.
and if you decide you want to go with ARP rod bolts, they will most likely have to be resized.

the pistons i did have ceramic coated, cost about 250 bucks, and he did a 3 day turn around.
i was pretty happy with the service, but it did seem a little light on the ceramic.

well see how it goes, i now have all of the parts to build an engine run stand.
so im hoping to do that this week and maybe fire the engine up in a couple of weeks.

i would contact some of the members here and get all of the gaskets, seals, and little parts while your waiting to save up for the rest.

another thing i like to do, is to actually build a different engine.
and when your done, its a swap away!

R&D is also the cheapest place for head studs.
and that lower girdle, while most likely not needed, was priced at about 450ish with lower end studs.

 

[asmith]

this is a spare engine I will be building. It is coming out of my wrecked truck and will be swapped into my current one when the build is done.
thanks for the help so far I am sure I will have more questions for you and others in the coming days.

 

[asmith]

OK so slowly gathering parts for my truck. was trying to make it to August because my little brother is getting married at the end of this month and it is super busy getting ready for it. but the truck has other plans. on my way to work today the torque converter decided to start unlocking and locking. it would unlock for about 5-10 seconds and the rpms would jump up 400-500. got off the freeway, pulled away from the stop sign and shifting from first to second was HARD. shook the whole truck and immediately the trans went into limp mode. got it home and is now parked for now. hope to start the tear down of the my old green truck soon so we can get the engine gone through and then swap in the transmission and engine.

now my question durring this process I am going to be swapping to hydro-boost brakes. @towcat recommended I buy the pedal assembly from Ford. I had a heck of a time tracking down the correct part number, but I think i got it. so for a manual transmission with Hydro-boost is the part number I need F3TZ-2455-B? Also does anyone know what is actually included in this? I can't find any pictures or good descriptions anywhere.

 

[riotwarrior]

Why do you feel you need a pedal assembly?

All you need is the correctly located pin for the hydroboost brake pedal.

That pin is 3/4" closer to the pivot point where pedal is suspended from.

If you are competant with tools have a drill press and a welder, there is no reason why you cannot modify a stock vacuum pedal to work.

Drill a hole up 3/4" centre to centre for noe pin from old ....take a 9/16" sholdered grade 8 bolt with enougu sholder to pass through pedal amd stick past same amount as stock pin....push through...mark it...take out cut it drill hole for cotter pin or snap pin as stock one is...place back in pedal weld up the hex good...or have it professionally welded...cut old pin off

Bobs yer uncle n done like a cheap beer

Because of how worn my kids pedal assembly is we are just uzing a NOS from ebay std pedal assembly from which I will mod for him to work w hydroboost.

Stay tuned for a hydro boost pedal tech 101 in next few weeks.

JM7.3CW Eh!

 

[asmith]

Why do you feel you need a pedal assembly?

All you need is the correctly located pin for the hydroboost brake pedal.

That pin is 3/4" closer to the pivot point where pedal is suspended from.

If you are competant with tools have a drill press and a welder, there is no reason why you cannot modify a stock vacuum pedal to work.

Drill a hole up 3/4" centre to centre for noe pin from old ....take a 9/16" sholdered grade 8 bolt with enougu sholder to pass through pedal amd stick past same amount as stock pin....push through...mark it...take out cut it drill hole for cotter pin or snap pin as stock one is...place back in pedal weld up the hex good...or have it professionally welded...cut old pin off

Bobs yer uncle n done like a cheap beer

Because of how worn my kids pedal assembly is we are just uzing a NOS from ebay std pedal assembly from which I will mod for him to work w hydroboost.

Stay tuned for a hydro boost pedal tech 101 in next few weeks.

JM7.3CW Eh!

Well my pedal assembly is worn, not terrible but 200,000 miles worth of clutching and braking on it.

On top of that I don't have a drill press or a welder. If I need to I will modify the old one, but if I can get a new one for a decent price I think I would rather go that route.

Right now (and it is weird to say this) I have less time than money. Which is not really saying much, because I don't have much to spend either. But if it saves me time and doesn't put me over budget, that is the way I need to go right now.

A three year old, three month old, crazy work schedule and a family wedding doesn't leave much time for trucks.


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[IDIoit]

if you cant find the part,
buy the non hydro, and send me the brake pedal, ill whip it up for ya.
i just did the same on my truck, but i did spend 175 on a new assembly.

 

[asmith]

if you cant find the part,
buy the non hydro, and send me the brake pedal, ill whip it up for ya.
i just did the same on my truck, but i did spend 175 on a new assembly.

That is very generous of you. I might take you up on that. The part you bought, was it a manual hydro-boost assembly? Where did you find it?


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[IDIoit]

no, it was a manual vacuum pedal assembly.
i drilled it and welded it , and moved the pin 3/4" higher on the pedal.
with my drill press and my TIG it literally took me 30 min from start to installed.
i have zero issues with my brakes, and it stops on the proverbial dime.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1992-1996-F...dal-OEM-NEW-/191918643378?hash=item2caf3e18b2

consider it karma points on future purchases.
when youre ready, im going on a coastal cruise!