Back In the Saddle

asmith

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;Sweet:D Picked up a '93 cclb 4x4 7.3 NA with an E4od. Almost exactly what I have been looking for. Coming from a turbo with a manual it is a lot different. Very loud! seems to be in really good shape, little bit of surface rust here and there, a ding here and there, needs a good cleaning inside, but over all in very good shape.

Although there seems to be, what i hope is a slight issue already:frustrate I drove it 200 miles home and i think i have a loose/bad ground somewhere. None of the symptoms showed up on the test drive or for the first 100 miles home or so.
While driving the radio would cut in and out and get static-y, usually when i hit a bump something changed. then i noticed when i put a turn signal on the temp gauge, volt gauge and oil pressure gauge would jump with the flash. the radio got worse and finally when i put the windows up and down it would move the same gauges and affect the radio, if i rolled them up the radio would not work, it was on, just no sound. if i rolled them down, the sound immediately came back. Lastly and biggest concern for me, I think the torque converter was unlocking for a split second randomly during this time. I could not get anything else to affect when this happened. randomly the rpm would jump 100-250 rpm and it would pull a little harder then go right back down. have not had time to look any farther into this. does this sound like a loose ground somewhere? good place to start?

the eventual plan is to swap in the turbo engine and zf5 from my wrecked truck, but that will be a ways down the road, so i need to get this one up and reliable for a while. it will be my dd for work(construction) driving anywhere from 40-150 miles a day.

here are some pics of the beast. I will get some more later for you guys. :cheers:

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asmith

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almost forgot is it hard to switch the mirrors to the ones from this truck? have not had to search, I will later, but just thought I would ask.

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direwulf23

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If there is an electrical problem affecting the tach then one would presume the RPM sensor might be affected as well. If the RPM sensor is going whacky it will affect the E4OD and torque converter.
 

asmith

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Quick update. The truck is running great. I love having the utility bed for work. replaced all the u joints in the rear drive shaft because they were toast. Now my glow plugs are not working. Still getting the WTS light, but the voltmeter does not move and when cold, is really hard to start. I dont know what kind of plugs are in it and there are some poor quality repairs to the harness. So I am just going to replace the whole system. I am having a hard time sorting through all the info on this site.

What is the best controller to use? I found this one that is a good price and has a lifetime warranty, but I am leery of Autozone parts. http://www.autozone.com/ignition-tune-up-and-routine-maintenance/glow-plug-controller?filterByKeyWord=7.3+glow+plug+controller&fromString=search&newYmme=true

I know we are supposed to use the motorcraft/beru glow plugs. is one better than the other? Best place to get them?

I have not been able to find a harness. Are they out there?
 

OLDBULL8

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I have a new controller and new harness. The harness is for an IH 7.3, but I remove the two extra wires in them. PM me if interested for price and shipping.
 

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cpdenton

Truck needs paint.
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Your gauge and radio problems sound like a grounding issue. The ground locations on a 92, I bet they are the same, are all on the same bolt behind the drivers side kick panel. There is a green bolt there that has several ring terminals on it. Take it all the way off and clean up all the terminals and the metal around the bolt hole and I bet you can get some better results from your gauges.

Sweet truck too!
 

towcat

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almost forgot is it hard to switch the mirrors to the ones from this truck? have not had to search, I will later, but just thought I would ask.

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you will be able to use one or both of the bolt holes for the plastic mirror as your index, but the lower holes will have to be drilled. measure many times. drill once.
 

cpdenton

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almost forgot is it hard to switch the mirrors to the ones from this truck? have not had to search, I will later, but just thought I would ask.

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I actually went the other way on mine. The top bolt holes do not line up. They are wider on the smaller mirror you have on the new truck, and there is a bracket that goes all the way through the door and bolts to the inside door frame as well, behind the door panel. There is a large square hole in the door also that the bracket goes through to the inside.

I guess what I am saying is this. It can be done. You will drill and bolt through(or nutserts) the bottom bracket, and the top will have an exposed bolt hole left, because the wider bolt spread than the swing away mirrors have.
 

asmith

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I have a new controller and new harness. The harness is for an IH 7.3, but I remove the two extra wires in them. PM me if interested for price and shipping.

You have a PM coming your way. I have to say you are one of the nicest and most helpful person on this site!! Thank you so much.

Your gauge and radio problems sound like a grounding issue. The ground locations on a 92, I bet they are the same, are all on the same bolt behind the drivers side kick panel. There is a green bolt there that has several ring terminals on it. Take it all the way off and clean up all the terminals and the metal around the bolt hole and I bet you can get some better results from your gauges.

Sweet truck too!
Yeah I am pretty sure it is grounding as well. I looked at the grounds on the kick panels on both sides real quick and did not see anything that looked bad. they were tight and no visible corrosion. I have found some PO wiring under the dash, that i have no idea what it is for and it looks real sloppy. I have just not had time to go through this rig real carefully yet. I use it everyday for work, and I have been slammed. I need a weeks vacation just to catch up on projects around the house. Thanks for all the help so far guys.
 

asmith

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Small update. Leaving tomorrow for seattle to visit my sister in law and see the city as I have never been there. Tons of work to get a house ready to paint while I am gone. Jump in the truck..... cranks and cranks and cranks.:mad: not even a hint of kicking over. so throw a battery charger on it, and try some more to see if I just need to purge some air, because I know I have air intrusion. all my return caps leak. Still nothing. press schrader valve barley dribbles out. Open an injection line, crank, barely anything. crap.

Go to NAPA get new fuel filter and fuel pump. change filter first hoping that is it. NOPE-cuss Ok tear into it to change the fuel pump. I realized that someone had been in here before. All the fittings were ***** and leaking and the pump was leaking oil around the gasket. So lots and lots of cleaning(right riotwarrior?), some more cleaning, got all the new stuff on. Button it up give it two 30 second cranks and away she goes with lots of smoke.

It ran real rough for awhile, but cleared up. when I get on it, it definitely smokes more so I think the pump has been weak for awhile. The one worrisome thing was when I first started it, I left the air cleaner off. The engine was making a very distinctive "pumping" sound. never heard it before. with the cleaner on it is much quieter. Not sure what that is about, but makes me a little nervous. Definitly need to get my butt in gear and get my old truck torn apart and that engine freshened up to drop into this one.

On top of all that, I still have not installed the new glowplugs and harness and controller i got from Oldbull :eek: (thank you by the way for shipping all that stuff out. Hopefully will be getting to it in a week or two.) thank god for 90 degree weather.

oh never did make it to work. Oh well it will just have to wait til we get bak.
 

79jasper

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Probably just a cylinder that wasn't firing yet. After the air has worked out, checked again.

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asmith

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I am in the very beginning stages of planning for a refresh/rebuild on my turbo IDI from my old truck. plan is type4 cam, one of the moose pumps, fresh injectors, head studs, a full reseal and whatever else we find when it is torn down. Now my question. worse case scenario, it needs new everything, pistons, bearings, valves all that, does anyone have any part numbers for stuff like that handy. Just starting some searching and I know there is that info floating around, just need to track it down. trying to put together a worse case budget and see how much more i have to save.
 

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