auto hubs, can someone explain?

[gushaman]

ok, so i dont have a diesel, but since you guys are smarter and nicer than all the other ford forums, im gonna start coming here again.
I got a 93 f150, 5.0, 4x4.
it has the auto hubs, i havent engaged the 4wd because i have different sized tires front to back. but i would like to get the same sized tires for snow use this winter.
i just did my rotors and pads last night, and learned a little about the auto hubs in the process.
one side had a small clip with a small ball bearing, which the small spring would press against. this clip/bearing was missing from the drivers side will my 4wd even work like this
also the washer thing with 4 tabs between the two nuts was a ***** to get out on that side, the c clip was chewed lookin, cleaned it up with a file, and the little dowel in the one nut was a little broken at the end. it pushed right into the nut when i pushed it, so i left it that way, not knowing it was supposed to stick out. passenger side had no dowel
how difficult is it to swap to manual hubs? If i am gonna have to hunt down small parts, it may be easier to find a kit

 

[jwalterus]

you need a spindle nut kit (I believe) for the c-clip and dowel, and a hub kit for the ball bearing deal, but I'd still swap to manual hubs simply for strength

 

[gushaman]

so what all is involved with swapping to manual hubs?

 

[jwalterus]

remove old hubs, install a "automatic to manual hub conversion kit" (it's a damn nut and retaining washer to keep the spindle nut from backing off, I have never actually put one on, but it's the "right" way), install new manual hubs

might as well check/replace wheel bearings and u-joints at this point, you'll have to pull the hubs if you do em later anyway

it'll be about $100 for a new set of Warn hubs for your truck

 

[gushaman]

well this rusty piece has 350k on the clock, two broken springs, and gaping rust holes, loose seats, and electrical gremlins, and i doubt i will keep it thru the winter, if i can find another truck

 

[Optikalillushun]

go to a local junkyard, pull the manual hubs and spindle nuts off a truck and swap them over. its real easy to do and they are usually a lot cheaper than new. i typically walk out with 3-4 sets of hubs for $50 with all the "guts" (spindle nuts, and all).

for the hubs u will need a 9/32 allen key (dont quote me tho, i dont rememebr off hand), spindle nut tool (less than $15 from any parts store, u need the small 4 spring socket), 1/2 ratchet, small screwdriver, pick and snap ring p-liers.

remove the 5 or 6 allen head bolts, remove the dial. fish out the outer retaining ring with the small screwdriver and pick. then remove the snap ring and put to of the allen bolts in the hub. wiggle it out, it may be a little tight. after thats out use the hub socket to remove the outer spindle nut, fish out the washer and remove the inner spindle nut. note the rotor/hub may fall off so keep ur extremidies out of the way. install is reveral of the removal. there are a variety of ways to pre-load the spindle nuts, i forget the exact torque numbers but its easy to find online...now i just go by feel.

 

[gushaman]

thanks optikal, my next question is about operation: when i swap to manuals, will i just lock them, then push my 4x4 button on the dash and im in business? ive never used auto stuff, only levers and lockouts

 

[Optikalillushun]

yup, lock em and go. u can leave them locked but i wouldnt recommened running them far ( like in an interstate).

 

[Optikalillushun]

any updates?

 

[gushaman]

well i have looked online at mile markers, bjt im not even sure this truck is gonna make it thru winter, so im holding off on buying extraneous parts right now. it is rusty, has two broken springs, and i have to get an apartment or move by dec 1 so im just praying it runs till i can get something worth fixing. i miss my 7.3.....even with a hole in the piston its three times the truck this one is

 

[Optikalillushun]

No u-pull it junkyard around? that is the cheapest way out.