Are R&D parts good

Stuka

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Hell everyone I just picked up my very first diesel the other day a 1993 f250 with a factory 5spd manual and trubo 7.3 idi. I think I should probably do glow plugs and injectors as well as the lift pump but I don’t know who to buy parts from I found R&D idi performance website but I’m not sure who to trust in terms of parts. My buddy who owns a 7.3 power stroke keeps yelling at me saying he thinks there all cheap parts and won’t work I would rlly like some of the more experienced people’s opinions
Thank you so much
 

Rocknit4x4

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Favorite suppliers from the majority of members on this site seem to be:

R&D
Classic Diesel Designs
Russ Repair

I haven't heard of hardly any negative feedback from them, besides part availability.

Unfortunately the guy behind russ repair died not long ago, but it seems like is family is continuing to keep up with some parts on his site.

There are others and lots have varying opinions on the rest.

On our trucks, injectors and IPs are usually recommended to change in pairs due to aging at about the same rate. Is there a reason you think you need injectors?

By the way, welcome and if you plan to stay a while, put the truck info in your signature. Helps everyone to know what you have.
 

Old Goat

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Your buddy sounds like an expert.....
"keeps yelling at me saying he "thinks" there all cheap parts and won’t work".
Where did he get his knowledge about ....

Justin is considered one of the best when it comes to the IDI
6.9/7.3 engine, Injectors and Injection Pumps etc...

There is also...


Moose diesel is a long time supplier..

These are three of the recommended suppliers on the Forum.

There is also Russ Repair, but we lost Russ a few months back
as mentioned up above. His site is still in operation by the family.

Keep listening to your buddy, and buy your parts at the local Auto
Parts store, E-Bay etc.... and you will get what you pay for.

You want quality, buy from the above suppliers...

Hang around on the Forum and learn from the knowledge here,
there is years of how to and what works...
This is the "University of B o o b Enthusiasts".


Goat
 
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IDIBOBS

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I’d agree with above. They are just fine and buddy doesn’t know. Glow plugs can be purchased any where. Only use motor craft zd9 glow plugs. If not already done I’d take the time to move the controller to the passenger fender.

I’d also wonder why you think you need injectors? Or even a lift pump? And usually yes injectors and injection pump are usually replaced at the same time.
 

Stuka

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Favorite suppliers from the majority of members on this site seem to be:

R&D
Classic Diesel Designs
Russ Repair

I haven't heard of hardly any negative feedback from them, besides part availability.

Unfortunately the guy behind russ repair died not long ago, but it seems like is family is continuing to keep up with some parts on his site.

There are others and lots have varying opinions on the rest.

On our trucks, injectors and IPs are usually recommended to change in pairs due to aging at about the same rate. Is there a reason you think you need injectors?

By the way, welcome and if you plan to stay a while, put the truck info in your signature. Helps everyone to know what you have.

Favorite suppliers from the majority of members on this site seem to be:

R&D
Classic Diesel Designs
Russ Repair

I haven't heard of hardly any negative feedback from them, besides part availability.

Unfortunately the guy behind russ repair died not long ago, but it seems like is family is continuing to keep up with some parts on his site.

There are others and lots have varying opinions on the rest.

On our trucks, injectors and IPs are usually recommended to change in pairs due to aging at about the same rate. Is there a reason you think you need injectors?

By the way, welcome and if you plan to stay a while, put the truck info in your signature. Helps everyone to know what you have.
Thank you so much I’m sorry to hear about his passing I will add my truck and info into my bio I want to change them because of a Very long start time probably take about 20 - 30 seconds of cranking before it will start up I have read that it’s could be do to bad injectors and also air leaks from the O rings also to my knowledge it is a common thing to replace your injectors as a regular service item
 

Stuka

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Your biddy sounds like an expert.....
"keeps yelling at me saying he "thinks" there all cheap parts and won’t work".
Where did he get his knowledge about ....

Justin is considered one of the best when it comes to the IDI
6.9/7.3 engine, Injectors and Injection Pumps etc...

There is also...


Moose diesel is a long time supplier..

These are three of the recommended suppliers on the Forum.

There is also Russ Repair, but we lost Russ a few months back
as mentioned up above. His site is still in operation by the family.

Keep listening to your buddy, and buy your parts at the local Auto
Parts store, E-Bay etc.... and you will get what you pay for.

You want quality, buy from the above suppliers...

Hang around on the Forum and learn from the knowledge here,
there is years of how to and what works...
This is the "University of B o o b Enthusiasts".


Goat
Thank you very much for your advice
 

Stuka

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I’d agree with above. They are just fine and buddy doesn’t know. Glow plugs can be purchased any where. Only use motor craft zd9 glow plugs. If not already done I’d take the time to move the controller to the passenger fender.

I’d also wonder why you think you need injectors? Or even a lift pump? And usually yes injectors and injection pump are usually replaced at the same time.
Are u talking about the glow plug solenoid If so how would I re locate that also the previous owner did a manual glow plug conversion it’s a bit of a mess of wires and it blows out the switch he attached it to because of the current and the reason I would like to replace the injectors is it is my understanding that they are a regular service items the should be replaced at mileage intervals but it is also due to a very very long start time it is currently about 60 ish degrees when I try and start it in the mornings and it take almost a whole minute of cranking the motor over also there is a abundance of white smoke that come out at start up and when I give it some power I have not fully diagnosed that but I plan on doing standard maintenance oil and filter change as well as fuel filter change I have been told that the long start can be caused be injectors and air leaks in the fuel system so my plan was to replace the rings and injectors as well as the “lift pump” at least that Is what I assume it’s called and replace the the fuel return rails with the R&D billet ones if I am mistaken the please do inform me on how I should fix this
 

IDIBOBS

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I’d start with rebuilding the hlow plug system. Buy a brand new controller. Mount it to the passenger fender away from heat of the fire wall and replace your glow plugs. Unfortunately people do crazy things as band aids instead of fixing them right. Once your glow plug system works correctly then move on the injectors and pumps.
 

Rocknit4x4

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Only other thing I’d add is look for signs of leaking fuel on the intake manifold. When I first got mine there was fuel puddling on the intake manifold. Like you said I needed the o rings replaced. You can definitely replace the o rings on the injectors without replacing the whole injector. Also you can get an injector return line kit from moose, cdd, and Russ repair for less than the rails. Don’t get me wrong, I have Justin’s rails and I love them, but there are options.
 

Stuka

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I’d start with rebuilding the hlow plug system. Buy a brand new controller. Mount it to the passenger fender away from heat of the fire wall and replace your glow plugs. Unfortunately people do crazy things as band aids instead of fixing them right. Once your glow plug system works correctly then move on the injectors and pumps.
Thank u so much for the advice
 

Stuka

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Only other thing I’d add is look for signs of leaking fuel on the intake manifold. When I first got mine there was fuel puddling on the intake manifold. Like you said I needed the o rings replaced. You can definitely replace the o rings on the injectors without replacing the whole injector. Also you can get an injector return line kit from moose, cdd, and Russ repair for less than the rails. Don’t get me wrong, I have Justin’s rails and I love them, but there are options.
Ik that me front tank leaks a lot of fuel but I am not aware of any on the manifold
 

Stuka

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I’d start with rebuilding the hlow plug system. Buy a brand new controller. Mount it to the passenger fender away from heat of the fire wall and replace your glow plugs. Unfortunately people do crazy things as band aids instead of fixing them right. Once your glow plug system works correctly then move on the injectors and pumps.
Do you have any pictures where I should mount it?
 

IDIBRONCO

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it is currently about 60 ish degrees when I try and start it in the mornings and it take almost a whole minute of cranking the motor over also there is a abundance of white smoke that come out at start up and when I give it some power
To me, this sounds like glow plugs and not injectors. If the glow plugs aren't working, or aren't heating long enough, it will take a lot of cranking to get the engine started. The super extended cranking times will ruin your starter in a hurry so keep that in mind. I'm leaning toward your smoke being blueish. That can come from unburned fuel that's being injected while you're cranking the engine over with the starter. When you say that you "give it some power", I'm assuming that you mean while you're accelerating or revving the engine while sitting still. That very well may be timing. I would check into the glow plugs and injector pump timing before spending money on injectors. Another indicator would be if the engine starts easier when it's at operating temperatures. That would mean a glow plug system that's not working correctly.
the previous owner did a manual glow plug conversion it’s a bit of a mess of wires and it blows out the switch he attached it to because of the current
This is done completely wrong. The right way to install a manual switch for a 7.3 style glow plug controller is to use the switch to complete the ground circuit. That's the white wire that's grounded to one of the controller mounting bolts in the factory set up. In this case, there's no power going through your switch at all so it will never burn up the switch.
I just picked up my very first diesel the other day a 1993 f250 with a factory 5spd manual and trubo 7.3 idi.
If this is a Factory Turbo (the "F" and "T" are capitalized by me to differentiate the optional factory installed turbos from the aftermarket ones), Then your controller has already been relocated to the passenger's side valve cover by the factory. It's not underneath the turbo and out of the way of the heat. It should be fine where it is.
I have been told that the long start can be caused be injectors and air leaks in the fuel system so my plan was to replace the rings and injectors as well as the “lift pump” at least that Is what I assume it’s called and replace the the fuel return rails with the R&D billet ones if I am mistaken the please do inform me on how I should fix this
Again, I think that you should fix the starting issue first. Then go on to the other things that may not need to be replaced at this time. Some people have had issues with the billet fuel rails leaking causing the injector o rings to leak. They can be a bear to install. If you just throw a bunch of parts at your truck, you may feel like your buddy's right and it's not worth fixing. If you can get the engine starting and running right, then you'll feel like it's worth fixing the other things like the leaking fuel tank, which won't affect running or starting unless you're trying to run on that tank and it has leaked all of the fuel out.
 

Stuka

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To me, this sounds like glow plugs and not injectors. If the glow plugs aren't working, or aren't heating long enough, it will take a lot of cranking to get the engine started. The super extended cranking times will ruin your starter in a hurry so keep that in mind. I'm leaning toward your smoke being blueish. That can come from unburned fuel that's being injected while you're cranking the engine over with the starter. When you say that you "give it some power", I'm assuming that you mean while you're accelerating or revving the engine while sitting still. That very well may be timing. I would check into the glow plugs and injector pump timing before spending money on injectors. Another indicator would be if the engine starts easier when it's at operating temperatures. That would mean a glow plug system that's not working correctly.

This is done completely wrong. The right way to install a manual switch for a 7.3 style glow plug controller is to use the switch to complete the ground circuit. That's the white wire that's grounded to one of the controller mounting bolts in the factory set up. In this case, there's no power going through your switch at all so it will never burn up the switch.

If this is a Factory Turbo (the "F" and "T" are capitalized by me to differentiate the optional factory installed turbos from the aftermarket ones), Then your controller has already been relocated to the passenger's side valve cover by the factory. It's not underneath the turbo and out of the way of the heat. It should be fine where it is.
yes it is on the valve cover what components should i replace in order to get the glow plugs to work is there a way to test of my glow plugs are good? if so how
 

Stuka

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I’d agree with above. They are just fine and buddy doesn’t know. Glow plugs can be purchased any where. Only use motor craft zd9 glow plugs. If not already done I’d take the time to move the controller to the passenger fender.

I’d also wonder why you think you need injectors? Or even a lift pump? And usually yes injectors and injection pump are usually replaced at the same time.
so i should only use zd9 glow plugs and no others?
 

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