Are Manual hubs heavier duty than auto??

[Andrew M. Frankli]

I have a '93 F-350 Diesel 4x4. It has automatic locking hubs. They are noisy and I like them less than the manuals I had on my old '85. Tell me: Can I replace auto locking hubs with manual locking ones?? Are manual locking hubs inherently more "heavy duty"? I remember hearing that they were, but want to know for sure. My axle is not the twin-I beam thing; it is one big solid axle. Thanks. Sincerely, Andy.

 

[metrojd]

Hubs

I cant say if there is a strength issue . I also have a 93 and put manual hubs on.
I bought Waren Hubs They were $ 100.00 Plus But they are nice.
When I did it there was talk of some kinda conversion kit needed along with the new hubs.
But I didnt need it.
I was told as long as there are 5 screws holding them on you dont need anything else other than the hubs.
Good Luck
John

 

[spencnaz]

Manual hubs are invariably stronger than the stock automatic hubs. Remember that Ford would use plastic and weaker steels in their stock hubs to keep production costs down.

If you're going to serious 4 wheeling on a regular basis, a good pair of hubs will be a good investment.

 

[adrianspeeder]

The thing with the autos for me was they failed when I needed em. Manuals can too, like anything, but they are stupid simple so that would be a reason for "tougher"

Adrianspeeder

 

[93turbo_animal]

the thing is with manual hubs once they are looked in they stay looked in till you unlock them auto hubs unlock everytime preasure is released so far more likely to break espeacially if trying to rock the truck to get unstuck. As far as how many screws hold on the cap has nothing to do with what you need to convert them. ALL auto hubs need a conversion kit to manual. Unless you take it apart and find 2 spanner nuts and a locking ring never seen it myself most auto hubs have only 1 spanner nut to keep the wheel bearing tight and some sort of locking key to keep them tight which is fine but the auto hubs are designed to hold the key in place and the manuals are not which could allow the key to come out nut to loosen and tire and rim hub and all to fall off

 

[fsSnowboard]

I was told as long as there are 5 screws holding them on you dont need anything else other than the hubs.
Good Luck

where can i get these screws? i only have 3 on one side.

 

[krawlr]

where can i get these screws? i only have 3 on one side.

I have spare screws for the Warn hubs if that's what you need. Just bought new hubs for my Bronco axle.

 

[big van]

Go with manual hubs. When they're locked they're locked, when they're unlocked they're unlocked!! No guessing. Simple design means less parts to break. I also say you need a kit to go from auto to manual.

 

[spencnaz]

Also, some automatic hubs required that you roll a certain distance before the internal spiders engaged with the front axle.

That's fine if you have some traction, but when you're stuck in a mudhole it isn't work a popcorn fart at that point.

If I see some rough or muddy road up ahead I take the 15 seconds to get out and lock the front hubs in and then I know I've got immediate mechanical engagement of the front axle for traction.

 

[adelyser]

That's a mis-conception about the auto hubs, they are engaged when the front drive shaft applies pressure to the hub via the axleshaft, not from the wheels turning. They do take 1/8 of a turn or less before they'll click in, and when they do pop into place, this is what usually causes the most wear. Very common for them to wear out inside without knowing it. The internals just aren't built nearly as well as manual hubs.

I had auto's on my Bronco, 5-screws on the caps, no conversion kit needed. The 3-screw caps generally need the conversion, the 5-screws usually do not, at least that's how it is on the Broncos. What it boils down to is the locknuts on the front hub, the manual hubs require 2 lock nuts, and if you have the self-locking single setup, you need to replace it with the locking nut.

When I pulled my auto hubs off the Bronco to do the brakes, the pasenger side came out in about 10 pieces, and when I found out they are about $260 each side for new ones, the $90 I spent for the pair of Warn Premiums was a no-brainer. I just had to train my wife how to use them. They are definitely stronger than the auto hubs, just not as convienent. I just lock the hubs when I think I might need them, and use 4WD as needed.

 

[spencnaz]

I was talking about the GM system of autohubs they had on their trucks.

 

[82fordtruck]

I have auto hubs on my new GMC, and manual on the 95 ford. The ford is nice for backing up trailers in 2 lo. Can't do that with the GMC, but it's an automatic, so don't really need to.

 

[fsSnowboard]

I have spare screws for the Warn hubs if that's what you need. Just bought new hubs for my Bronco axle.

I'm going to buy some new warn hubs myself sometime. i've still got the stock hubs.

anyways, i prefer manual hubs as well.

 

[Diesel Fly]

On a semi-related note, what's the best way to tell if the hubs are working correctly? I'm trying to diagnose a weird front axle issue. When I lock the manual front hubs and put it in 4 lo I can tell that all four tires are pulling. When I turn the wheel, I get the outside wheel hopping along, almost as if the differential spider gears were welded. When I crawl under the truck with the hubs unlocked, I can turn each axle and the opposite axle turns in the opposite direction. I can also grab both axles and turn them in the same direction (fwd and backward). I have the Dana 50 IFS.

So what's the deal??

 

[adelyser]

That sounds like your hubs are working correctly. With them locked, and in 4lo, turning like that will cause the outer tire to hop as you describe.

With the hubs unlocked, when you turn one axleshaft and the other side turns in the opposite direction, you aren't turning the differential, just the spider gears inside the differential. They are definitely easier to turn, and you will spin the piece with the least amount of resistance.

When you grab both front axleshafts and turn them in the same direction, you aren't turning the spider gears anymore, but rather the entire differential, and the front driveshaft as well.