Anybody ever put a rear axle temp gauge in?

[apextrans]

I'm getting ready to install gauges in the OBS & have a 4 gauge pillar mount so I decided on boost, egt, tranny temp & rear axle temp since I tow quite a bit. I've found that to be a valuable gauge in the big trucks when pulling heavy.

Anyway, I don't want to spend 200.00 on a mag-hytec diff cover & was wondering if anyone had installed the sender in a stock sterling diff cover. If so, please school me.....

 

[foxman]

First of all, being an old trucker I understand exactly what you are saying. On my truck I had temp in each head ( 8V-92 ), trans and diff. I also plan a diff temp in my 450. I plan to go to Lowe's and get a reducing bushing 3/4 to 1/2 . Take the rearcover off, drill hole or cut hole with die grinder and weld in the bushing. Now you have a 1/2 inch threaded place to put your sensor. If you want to be sure the sender in rear doesn't get damaged you can get a 1 1/2 long piece of 2" ripe threaded on one end. Weld the 2" pipe on rear cover so the sender is inside the 2" pipe , then screw a cap on to cover your sender. A small hole in side lets the wire out where the wire is wire tied to the brake hose and over to left frame rail.
Really make a lot of questions about the "WART" on the rear end!
Foxman

 

[apextrans]

I didn't think about welding the bung to the cover. thanks

I follow what your saying but do you have any pictures? Sounds like you've done this a time or two.

 

[93turbo_animal]

If your worried about heat get an aluminum cover from I think the 08 and up direct bolt on just need longer bolts and you can just drill and tap this cover as it will be thick enough

Oh I forgot to add its finned for getting rid of heat and you can get them for around $70 alot cheaper then mag-hytech

 

[foxman]

Do not have pic's as the vehicles that I have done this have been sold and traded. It works very well however do not make the mistake I made on the first one. On the first one I welded the bung to high on the rear cover and the reading was very erratic because it was only reading the splash. Then I realized that the level is lower than when sitting still due to the ring gear splashing the oil around. *** Be sure to weld the bung low enough and not like my first otherwise the guage will continusly flicker and drive you bonkers.
Foxman

 

[apextrans]

I was thinking the bottom of the cover so that it was always submerged in fluid. Although, I did find this on ebay & thought I could put the sender in the bottom instead of the drain plug. Good or bad idea? I'm not crazy about the polished look but I think they have em in black too.

 

[hheynow]

I'd think getting the biggest diff cover and using 80W-140 synthetic is enough. Don't get me wrong I have 5 aftermarket gauges in mine. I just don't see the point in monitoring the diff temp. Say you're towing and see a high diff temp...so what are you gonna do? Stop until it cools only to have it get hot again?

 

[apextrans]

I'd think getting the biggest diff cover and using 80W-140 synthetic is enough. Don't get me wrong I have 5 aftermarket gauges in mine. I just don't see the point in monitoring the diff temp. Say you're towing and see a high diff temp...so what are you gonna do? Stop until it cools only to have it get hot again?

I hear what you're say & while i use that gauge differently in the carhauler (if 1 or the other rears starts to run hot I know I need to shift some weight off of it to keep them somewhat "matched" & happy), I already have the gauge & I just think it'd be good to have since I needed a fourth gauge for the pod anyway. I think it will be good for preventing a bigger problem if it starts to heat up beyond whats normal. I'll figure what the normal unloaded & loaded temps are & if I see a change, I know something is wrong or it's time for a fluid change.

 

[Darrin Tosh]

Like Aric said, I used an aluminum diff cover from an 08 SD, Here is the thread on it with the part number and pics.

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=29162&highlight=finned

I also found a pic of someone that took one fin off the drill and tap a temp sender. not sure that you would have to take one fin off to do this, but he did:

 

[foxman]

To hheynow:
I can see what you are saying about towing and stopping to let the rear end cool before moving on. I do not believe you are seeing the real advantages of a diff guage. When a bearing or other failure is beginning it will start by raising the temperature and at this point it will be less costly to repair than waiting for complete distruction. Most all of the upper level road tractors have diff temp guage. It is as necessary as the temp guage on manual trans. A diff guage can even tell if a brake is dragging on that axle. Any heavy-haul operator worth 2 grains of salt will have them on both rear ends. Apextrans is congradulsted for recognizing the importance of this!
Foxman

 

[apextrans]

I'm not heavy haul but most of my loads gross out between 79,000-85,000. I spec all my trucks with the most complete gauge packages available which always include a front & rear diff temp gauge. Honestly, I watch them more than the pyro. They can tell you a WHOLE lot about load distribution, especially on a carhauler. Again, not the same function in a pickup but I like the idea of having it.

 

[hheynow]

I can recommend Red Line synthetic gear oil.

 

[aaklingler]

What kind and where did you get your pillar mount?

 

[apextrans]

What kind and where did you get your pillar mount?

The gauge is an ISSPRO ev2. The pillar pod (4 gauge pod) was a mass buy on another diesel site but it came from these guys. The website doesn't have much on it yet so you need to call them & ask for it specifically.

 

[aaklingler]

You don't know how made the pod then, if it is an autometer or who?
Thanks