Any tips ?

[93blklightning]

I'm getting ready to drop my new to me 7.3 in , in a couple of weeks. Along with my hydro boost. This engine has 93,*** original miles , and runs like a new one. I intend to replace the valve cover gaskets, rear main seal, front main seal, oil pan gasket, rebuild the oil cooler with o-rings, and mounting gaskets, thermostat, new pressure hoses on the hydro boost , any suggestions on anything else I should go thru while I have her out ?

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[Agnem]

There is no oil pan gasket, so no need to bother with that, unless your pulling the front or back covers, or fixing a leak. I'd at least pull the injectors and have them tested to see that you've got good ones in there. You should do a new return line kit anyway. I can help you with those supplies if you need em.

 

[93blklightning]

No oil pan gasket? Please educate me on this , I've not took it off yet, and they sell one for it at almost all parts stores . Not to mention it appears to be leaking

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[icanfixall]

The factory used an RTV only for the oil pan and that does not leak like the cork or rubber gaskets. Just because you can buy a cork gasket does not mean you can use it and get a good seal. so many have tried because they did not know to use RTV. When they see the gasket its stupid simple. they install it only to find out later its leaking. then the questions start being asked about how can I fit this.. Well you have to pull the engine to do it correctly. Some try to drop the pan but.. Se how deep the pan is. Well at the bottom of the pan is the oil pump suction. Its bolted to number three main bearing cap too. Trying to remove it and the pump is hell. Even worse trying to install it is terrible. Our joints wont turn like that under the truck reaching in there. And... No matter how clean you think you got the pan sealing rail its not going to be clean because oil is running down the sides of the block no matter what. I suppose if the engine was sitting dry and not running for a year or so it might be able to be cleaned but remember. When the engine is in the truck everything you work on to remove and install the oil pan is overhead.. Gravity will get you. Oil drips in the face. Bits of rtv or gasket .. Its really a hellish job removing the oil pan when the engine is still in the truck. Add 4x4 and you may as well be working in hell on a hot day with everything falling in your face. Please do not use the cork or rubber oil pan gasket. You may find other gaskets in the gasket set too but they will not fit the truck engine application. Some oil cooler gasket sets come with the van oil cooler gaskets as part of the truck sets. The individual gaskets are cheap to make and why have 2 different set in stock. Make one set with 4 gaskets and save shelf space and inventory overhead. So far the gaskets you want to replace sound great. the rear main seal on the crank is a good seal to replace but make sure there is no worn groove on the crank. If you feel one get the seal that has the speedi sleeve in it. Then you new seal wont leak like some have when members tried to install them on worn cranks seal areas. The front seal wears on the dampner shaft. Not on the crank so its simple to replace if and when it leaks. The tuff part is removing the dampner. If you have the tools for that its really easy. Just do not pull on the outside of the dampner circumference. That will pull the weight off the rubber dampner and ruin the dampner..

 

[93blklightning]

Gotcha , I've know several different applications that use RTV in lieu of a gasket like you where saying , but a lot of the time I would use RTV whether it called for it or not simply because it makes a better seal. I'm definitely ordering the rear/front seal kit with the repair sleeves anyway, I've replaced them before, and not seen any deformities , but then had to go back and lick my calf , because it was leaking.

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[icanfixall]

I have used the RTV called permatex ultra copper plus. It heat and oil resistant. Its a orange looking reddish color and it never leaks if the surface is clean. I use brakeclean to insure I have a good clean surface. It will not leave a powdery residue.

 

[93blklightning]

I've used that also , it is a very good sealant , I use a lot of black RTV also

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[Saskredneck]

Not to high jack the thread but on the topic of oil pan gaskets, I'm getting everything ordered for my 2wd's motor overhaul and have a cork gasket here with the gasket kit I bought. Been hearing a lot that just use rtv and it works better but on the old Detroit 2-strokes I fix at work I've never had a cork gasket fail after installing, mind you one of the old secret I've been told by numerous older diesel techs is to use weather strip glue on each side of the cork will this method prove a better seal than rtv? I'm debating on trying it.

 

[94f450sd]

Dont use just any old "rtv".its all too thin and will drip down into oil pan to get sucked up by the oil pump.

Get the high torque gray rtv from ford or international.make sure the sealing surfaces are clean,follow the directions on the tube and good luck getting it apart if you ever have to take it apart again.