Another inexperienced new owner...

CaptainMorgan556

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Hi, Im a highschool senior and well I just bought a 1992 7.3 IDI 5 speed, and after only 2 weeks I've had a handful of problems, half of which are because of a PO who liked to save money and jury rig a lot of repairs. So here is a list of my issues,
My brakes SUCK, its very hard to brake, my rear ABS light is on and my parking brake is broken.
It seems that if I run fuel off one tank, the fuel return lines bring the fuel to the opposite tank.
I have no Speedometer or Odometer, but everything else works.
On cylinder 2, something mustve happened and the injector line mustve broken but the PO decided to just cut it in the middle and replace the injector end with a piece of copper tubing. Recently the fix broke and fuel went everywhere, I bought a new line though, and am just curious on how hard it is to replace (do I have to remove the IP? is there any tips or tricks I should know)
And in the mornings it takes forever to start. I live in florida so I know cold air isn't and issue, might need a new fuel filter or something.
And lastly, couple nights ago the truck wouldn't start. just a single clunk, jumped it (im only running one battery currently ) and still didn't start. Finally had someone pull start me, it didn't work but after it sat for 5 minutes it started right up (I don't even understand how that worked but ill just accept it)
And advice or redirection where I can get the information would be appreciated.
Ill even upload a few pictures of the POs fixes beacause otherwise you wouldn't believe them.
 

83ford

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The brake problem could be from a bad booster or bad vacuum pump.some people like to be cheap an not fix stuff right you just can't do that on these trucks.
Welcome to the forum by the way and be sure to post pics of your truck

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TronDD

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After 23 years of people cutting corners, it adds up. It's amazing what some people have gotten away with. My truck has it's share, too.

Get your brakes figured out. I just went though my brakes. Ended up replacing the master, and rear ABS valve (which caused broken lines I had to replace) only to find out I had a vacuum leak. The can of beans vacuum reservoir had rusted through. Disconnected it and a 3 cent plug fixed my brakes. Make sure you learn how to adjust the rear drums. They don't self-adjust and are another cause of bad brakes.

When I bought my truck, the injection pump died before it left the previous owner's driveway, the trans started eating itself on the way home (automatic) and once I was home, I couldn't get the truck started again (glow plug wires were burning up). Then the water pump let go... So, welcome to the party!

Tim.
 

mntwins7

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As far as the lines go, as someone who just changed theirs, it was a pretty easy job.

I just bought this fuel injector install kit, pulled off the old lines, caps, and o-rings.

I copied the lengths of the old lines and made new ones, installed new o-rings, and then the caps and lines.

This forum has been a HUGE help to me as someone who has never really worked on a car. So welcome!
 

mntwins7

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Do you think most of this can be completed my someone with basic knowledge and hand tools?

Definitely depends on the problems. I spend hours researching problems and fixes before I do anything.

I watched a few videos on YouTube of the injector lines being replaced which gave me a pretty good idea of what I was doing. That job only used a wrench just to pull the IP lines off the injectors and a pick for the o-rings.

Everything I have done to my truck (which isn't much) has only used my research and hand tools.

Like you, I only have basic knowledge, but there's never not a good time to learn.

Ask around on the forum - these guys have been more than generous in sharing their knowledge with me.
 

gandalf

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With a bit of care and a moderate amount of common sense and mechanical know-how, you should be able to work on many/most areas of your truck. Ask questions of the forum. The collective knowledge here far outstrips most dealers. Most dealers cannot be bothered to work on these old trucks.

Before you start any work on the fuel system on your truck be sure to read Mel's Excellent Article. Read it several times, then print out the relevant parts to have handy while you do the work. That's exactly what I did.

Don't be afraid to ask questions here. There is usually somebody around to answer.
 

icanfixall

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The number 2 cylinder is on the drivers side of the engine and is the second cylinder back from the radiator. Just look at the 2 bolts that holds the intake manifold to the head for a cast in cylinder number. Might need to clean off some dirt but its there on every intake passage way to the cylinder heads. Now if thats the cylinder you are talking about its not a bad job. you just need to remove the hard lines above it on the back of the injection pump. PLEASE... Take pics before you move a line. That way you have proof how and where it goes later. Pics have saved my bacon many times. Your lucky because you have a cell phone with a camera. 35 years ago we drew pics and hoped for really good memory. Sounds like you need 2 new batteries. Its really ******* the starter to use only one battery. Now cranking for 15 seconds is about the limit. Then you MUST allow around 2 or 3 minutes for the starter to cool down. Your pervious owner may have already ruined the starter. They need to crank the engine faster than you can count the rpm. On ebay there is a good seller named DB Electric. They sell about the best ebay starter and the least expensive too. Many here are using them and no complaints.
Now keeping things operatiing rook clean when you have the injection system open is a must. Hope this help you out.
 

Waystro

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If you need a starter I have a used one just pay shipping
Still works good got a new one never turned in the core.
 

TahoeTom

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OLDBULL8

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Just in case you don't know, 1-3-5-7 are on pass side. 2-4-6-8 are on drivers side. Always refer to cyl's. like that.
A few pic's that might help in the future.

It seems that if I run fuel off one tank, the fuel return lines bring the fuel to the opposite tank.
That's because the FSV (Fuel Selector Valve) is stuck in the middle. Location is below the drivers seat on the frame rail. More than likely the short rubber hose on either tank or the foot pickup (called shower head) has deteriorated and debris has got into the FSV. They can be taken apart and cleaned, drill out the 4 rivets just enough to remove the crimp then drive them out, use a #6 sheet metal screw to go back together. Don't move the internal motor.

Air intrusion causes hard start's, check the Olives (seals) on the 3/8" hard line from lift pump to filter, and the 5/16" hard line from filter to IP (Injector Pump). The short rubber hose that connects the steel line from FSV to lift pump, replace it, they crack and let air in.
I would get a retirn line kit and replace that, return lines is the ones that go from injector to injector.

Make sure you use only diesel rated hose for any replacement.

That should keep you busy for a few days, anmd welcome to the OB.

Edit: Forgot to say if you disconnect the lines on the FSV, fuel is going to siphon out from the tank, use vise grips to clamp the hoses.
 

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OLDBULL8

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More, if you change the glow plugs, use only Motorcraft/Beru or Diesel RX Wellman as second choice. Have any trouble getting them out, refer here as to how. They carbon up and some tips swell and difficult to remove.
 

83ford

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Diesel rx glowplugs are awsome lol.thats what I've got and haven't had a single problem in the year I've had im.i was goin through a set of glow plugs every week cause of my ip and I installed these and even with ip problems they didn't give out. I got mine on eBay


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CaptainMorgan556

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Wow, thanks guys, y'all have been more than helpful. I'll upload pics of my rig so you guys can tell me if something stands out and doesn't look right. I'm gonna buy new batteries today (Walmart special for now until some Optima Red tops or Sears brand which have never let me down) I also have heard about the Gear Reductions starters from Mean green or Denso which sound nice. Probably new thicker battery cables and such too. I'm not cutting corners on this truck. I want it to last me another 20 years.
 

sjwelds

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And last it will. Just don't go bargain basement on parts. Buy quality stuff. Ask on here if you have any questions.

And most importantly: Read the New owner FAQ in the sticky section at the top of the main forum page. Just set aside a couple of hours or whatever and go through it. Most any common problem has been dealt with in depth. If that doesn't answer questions you may have, do a search.

Welcome to the forum!
 

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