Another IDI Cold Start Problem

[tgomes]

So heres my issue.. The old beast has 366XXX 8 new BERU GPS, a new Controller, A new GP Harness and 2 brand new batteries a new fuel return line kit installed thats not leaking. Why am I still having issues with starting this thing. When it runs it runs great. 9/10 when it's warm it will fire right back up within a half second. Other times I have to crank it for 10-15 seconds WHEN WARM. A Cold start usually ends up a part time job. Where do I look next. New Injectors and a new pump are on the horizon once I figure out who I want to buy them from/ have rebuild them. Ive been reading a bad pump can cause hot starting issues but what about cold. Help is always appreciated. Thanks

 

[Kheg]

I'll throw this out here, when I first got my truck it was exhibiting the same symptoms and I spent weeks chasing what everyone including myself was diagnosing as an air intrusion problem ( the glow plugs seemed to cycle for the proper length of time and when the glow plug light went out I would have to crank and crank and crank and crank before the engine would start). What I found out was that the heavy gauge power supply wires that go from the wire harness to the glow plug controller relay had melted the OE Ford connector located on the passenger side wheel well. When I pulled the connector apart I could see that the connector had been severely melted and that the spade connectors were very corroded. My solution was to snip the heavy gauge wires on either side of the connector and directly solder them together my truck has started each time every time all winter long since I prepared these wires.

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[tgomes]

I'll throw this out here, when I first got my truck it was exhibiting the same symptoms and I spent weeks chasing what everyone including myself was diagnosing as an air intrusion problem ( the glow plugs seemed to cycle for the proper length of time and when the glow plug light went out I would have to crank and crank and crank and crank the engine would start). What I found out was that the heavy gauge power supply wires that go from the wire harness to the glow plug controller relay had melted oe Ford connector on the passenger side wheel well. When I pulled the connector apart I could see that the connector had been severely melted and that the spade connectors were very corroded. My solution was to snip the heavy gauge wires on either side of the connector and directly solder them together my truck has started each time every time all winter long since I prepared these wires.

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Well first thing in the morning I will be checking this... Cold Start problems with a bunch of new parts is extremely annoying. Hopefully for inspection purposes those wire are in the same place.

 

[JLtoolman]

Air intrusion. Air will leak in, even though fuel is not leaking out. Clear temporary fuel line works wonders in diagnosing where the leak is. Put a short piece before the filter, and in the return lines. If you see bubbles in the line, look for the cause. Could be the olives, or a cut o-ring from installing the return line kit.

 

[crash-harris]

I'll also be checking the conenctor Kheg mentioned. I've had 2 instances like this since I've owned the truck. One hot start that ended up draining the batteries trying to get it started and another cold on the 3rd start since my fuel system work with it completely reprimed and stating flawlessly.

 

[tgomes]

Upon inspection of that connector 2 of the wires were completely corroded off and the rest of the connector didn't look much better. I'll report back later tonight after I correct this problem . I'll probably use some butt connectors and heat shrink.

 

[icanfixall]

Glad you found the plug and can see the issues. Only reason for that main engine wire harness plug is the simplicity of engine canges. All you do is unplug that connector and remove the engine. Those 2 yellow wires that send power to the controller just can't feed enough amps thru a corroded way too small make and female connector like this. I ran a 6 gauge speaker wire from the solenoid directly to the controller. Please be careful working on this side of the solenoid. EVERYTHING connected to this is ALWAYS HOT. And you have 2000 amps waiting for a ground. Our engines have several places that have a constant hot wire to them. Glow plug controller.. Alternator... Starter and there are a few more.

 

[tgomes]

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Does that look like my problem right wires?

 

[riotwarrior]

Upon inspection of that connector 2 of the wires were completely corroded off and the rest of the connector didn't look much better. I'll report back later tonight after I correct this problem . I'll probably use some butt connectors and heat shrink.

Run a single 4 ga wire to gp controler solenoid pack instead of reusing the old wires...those old ones will be toasted from resistance and brittle so just skip it.

I have 2/0 running to my gp setup

Its how I roll...

JM7.3CW

 

[tgomes]

So that picture I posted is that the wires that would affect my gps

 

[riotwarrior]

So that picture I posted is that the wires that would affect my gps

She platic 2 pc connector is the one...IIRC the other is charge wire from Alt.

Follow the 2 yellow wires in harness at connector they likely go to gp relay and back to bat side of solenoid on fender...

Here u can see the 2/0 wire heading off towards valvecover to the gp relay...no success like excess

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I had melted yellow wires too...

Not anymore!

 

[tgomes]

Well what do you know I was checking the drivers side. I suppose I'll have to inspect the passenger side when I leave work haha! Wonder what those wires are on the connector I did find