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Devon Harley

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Shame on me I know!!! So is it 3400 or 3800 two different answer? I've saw same gearIng an trans loose 10 mph. An it was the torque curve maxing out at 2800 in the sticky up top I got that mixed up.
 
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icanfixall

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Shame on me I know!!! So is it 3400 or 3800 two different answer? I've saw same gearIng an trans loose 10 mph. An it was the torque curve maxing out at 2800 in the sticky up top I got that mixed up.

Your ezcused from class. No go see the principle now.. your due for a paddleing son...:eek::rotflmao
 

Ugly Moosling

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Lol. honestly though why is there a 10 mph loss in 2nd gear?

Have you checked to make sure you're getting full throttle travel? With the engine off, have someone floor the throttle while you watch the throttle arm at the pump. Make sure the adjusting bolt is bottoming on the boss on the pump housing. I've seen throttle cables 'shrink', especially aftermarket ones.
 

icanfixall

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Have you checked to make sure you're getting full throttle travel? With the engine off, have someone floor the throttle while you watch the throttle arm at the pump. Make sure the adjusting bolt is bottoming on the boss on the pump housing. I've seen throttle cables 'shrink', especially aftermarket ones.

Shrink??? Wouldn't it be stretch and not shrink. A longer cable will not fully open the throttle on the pump.
 

jaluhn83

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And getting back to the original topic - haven't had time to do much else but I have determined that my oil leak is coming from the front end of the pan "gasket". I used the RTV gasket approach as recommended by many on here, and while I do not wish to disrespect other folks, I will say that the previous 3 incarnations of this motor and the many other engines I've worked on have all used cork gaskets without any leaks. So far I'm 0 for 1 on the RTV method. Undoubtedly this is due to operator error, but still....perhaps it would have better to go with my instincts and use the cork. Oh well.
 

79jasper

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Personally, I've had good luck with cork gaskets in the past also. They're just a pain to remove.

That's why I like the reusable gaskets.
 

jaluhn83

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And pictures.... :D

First we'll start with the teardown.... This is the reason for the whole evolution - had a weird rattle noise that sounded like valve train, or stuck injector but after both were ruled out it was concluded that it was something more serious, likely a loose wrist pin. As it turns out that was wrong. Apparently when it overheated as a result of a small coolant leak from the block heater it caused more damage than I'd thought at the time and somehow a small chunk of one piston welded itself to the cylinder at tdc and was ripped off the piston. The noise then was the piston bashing into this bit. :eek: Surprisingly it seemed otherwise fine for 20-30k miles running this way.

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jaluhn83

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Original 4 row Ford radiator vs a 4 row aftermarket unit I had from a parts truck. (until both walked off :mad:) Note that the aftermarket unit has narrower tubes.
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