Aluminum TIG Welding Pro Needed

[BDCarrillo]

1: This carb hat
2: An aluminum 45 or 60* elbow (2"? 2.5"?)... maybe just a straight 1" long section of pipe
3: TIG together and sell as a snail

I was looking at ditching the first gen banks air box on my 91 and a fabbed snail from that hat and an elbow seem like the most economical way to go.

Any aluminum welding pros want to take a stab at it? I'll fund the parts and provide technical drawings for a prototype.

 

[79jasper]

Maybe @dzljon

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[IDIoit]

i can get it done for ya.
my TIG skills on aluminum suck, but i know a few guys that can lay it down....
but they do charge.

 

[Sorro71]

Pity you're so far away.
I take it the snail would be a used one. Make sure you degrease it well. Sometimes I've found that you have to run the TIG around the joint on the old casting to bring out the contamination. It will look black and horrible. Then give it a light sand with a flapper wheel to bring it back to clean metal. Degrease it again. Preheat the components tack and then weld them. It generally looks a lt better the second time around. A lot of the time I find the filler metal wont fuse to the old casting if you don't do this.
I would recommend using a 5% silicon filler wire and 80 to 120 degrees C preheat.

 

[Clb]

Just wondering if the summit deal is heavy nuff???
Seeing how its a dust cover and not a duty item?
But yea the banks box SUX!

 

[jwalterus]

hell, grab some aluminum brazing flux and learn to braze it

you're not going to be stressing it enough to worry about needing a full penetration weld

 

[typ4]

Hard part is shortening the hat, it may hit various turbos, and will hit 093 unless its about an inch tall

 

[dzljon]

I can weld it

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[NW_Iron]

If Dzljon can't for whatever reason then I can. I'd rather not have to machine anything though. Looks pretty simple.

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

It definitely won't clear the 093 turbo, not sure about the banks but I had to clearance my snail when I clocked it for ic install and installed a SX257 turbo.

 

[BDCarrillo]

Good points to look at: turbo clearance and CD-R.

Today I'm going to hack up the banks box to get the truck functional. It'll also give me a chance to verify minimum clearances. The machined turbo hat has a pretty good wall thickness, much more than a regular intake pipe. The spun aluminum ones are a touch thin.

If it'll take a bunch of machining for clearance then it looks like it won't be worth it. More to follow fellers

 

[laserjock]

I looked at a ton of stuff. Nothing was going to work no matter how I clocked it. So I made this.

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Had to loose the air cleaner bolt to get down low enough.

 

[BDCarrillo]

Ooo that would work too. Do you screw it straight into the intake manifold, where the screen hold down was?

Gonna order that carb cap and see how much surgery is Required. I think an angled cut on the turbo facing side and then an elbow or stub of pipe ought do it. If I can mock it up, I'll get in touch with our TIG capable board brothers.

Till then, it's a bolt-up 3" intake with a hacked up banks box.

 

[laserjock]

Yes. It's a 5/8 UNC thread if you take the screen out. I could probably put it back on but I'd loose some compression of the oring. I'm not sure it's still perfectly flat after the welding so more squish is better.

I've still got more finish work to do on it and I'll cut the tube to length and bead it once I get the IC plumbing together.

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

If you're going through the trouble of removing the intake I'd just weld / purchase one that's already been converted. I have one waiting to go on my new engine when it's done but didn't feel like replacing an intake just to test a new turbo for a few thousand miles

http://www.idiperformance.com/store/p35/R&D_Intake_Manifold.html