Aluminum TIG Welding Pro Needed

BDCarrillo

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Yes. It's a 5/8 UNC thread if you take the screen out. I could probably put it back on but I'd loose some compression of the oring. I'm not sure it's still perfectly flat after the welding so more squish is better.

I've still got more finish work to do on it and I'll cut the tube to length and bead it once I get the IC plumbing together.

How do you plan to seal the bolt hole up top?

If you're going through the trouble of removing the intake I'd just weld / purchase one that's already been converted
If I were tearing into it, that's the road I'd go.

EDIT

How about this for a starting point?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BZYZFC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Weld a sheet on top and a tube, similar to how laserjock did it.
 
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laserjock

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That might work. Welding it and not warping it may be tricky but I'm not a welder... just a guy with a welder and lots of patients with a grinder.

I cut a little bevel on the bolt hole to accept an o-ring to seal it. A copper or aluminum gasket would probably also do the trick but I like o-ring seals. The intake seal is a square o-ring that fits real nice and is captured by the hat so it won't squish out.
 

BDCarrillo

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Hmm I'll follow suit with the o-ring. So I found a 5" aluminum 1/8" disc for $5 online... gonna botch the first one by trying to braze it onto the half inch riser ring, then I'll call in the TIG backup when I'm done butchering it, Chuck it in the scrap pile, and new parts arrive. LOL
 

jaluhn83

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Don't seem to have a picture of the final result somehow but you get the idea...
 

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BDCarrillo

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(Test fit on a parts intake)

Tadaa! It's a half inch carb riser and a 5" disc from metalremnants.com, with a .8" tall, 2" tube inlet. I have 10" of that tube left, and will use that to connect a silicone 90 out of the hat and 45, 60, or hump to the turbo. The boost sensor adapter was tapped straight down the factory screen bolt.

It was all attached with uniweld p4kd9 uni-4300, and zero actual machining was required.

It ain't a hotrod or performance part, just a replacement for that big 'ol banks box. Now I can get back to my electronics projects, lol.
 
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subway

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Looks good but maybe a couple of suggestions. It would be a good idea to TIG or bend a lip on the inlet for the tubing to grip to. It also looks really tight against the center bolt. Will the tubing and clamp clear the center bolt?

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
 

BDCarrillo

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I should have .5" of pipe stub for the tubing/clamp once the center bolt is snugged down.

Good idea on the lip, but I kinda doubt the measly output from my turbo will pop a boot. I did rough up the surface so the silicone will grab better. I don't have a TIG welder or shaping tools to roll a lip into it.
 
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