Altering odometer on '93?

[snicklas]

I agree with Jasper on a good indication on mileage is the pedal pad wear. Dad and I both keep our vehicles for a looooooooong time and a lot of miles. Even if someone does a refresh/restore, they don't replace the rubber pad on the pedal.

Here are some examples:

Here is my 2003 Excursion with a documented 170,000 miles:

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Here is my 2007 Infiniti QX56 with 76,000 documented miles:

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This is my 2007 Crown Victoria Police Interceptor with a documented 165,000 miles:

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As you can the pedal wear with the different miles, and different position of the pedals shows the wear.....

 

[DrCharles]

Brake and clutch pedal pads looked about like your first pic (170k), parking brake pad missing entirely. I replaced them.

The cloth bench seat is basically unworn, because it likely had a cover over it for most of its life. (Remnants of the black tie-strings are still attached in places).

Anyway there's not much I can do about it, even if I could prove that someone in the past, not even necessarily the seller, committed odometer fraud. After all, I bought a truck, not an odometer

 

[Macrobb]

Anyway there's not much I can do about it, even if I could prove that someone in the past, not even necessarily the seller, committed odometer fraud. After all, I bought a truck, not an odometer

And, it was sold as 'exempt' which means that it's not fraud in any case. It's totally legal to put a new gauge cluster in it, even one with zero miles... as long as it's noted on the title(as either in excess of mechanical limits, different, or exempt, I believe).

 

[pelky350]

When buying my truck even not running and the outside condition of it they told me it only had 126xxx on it. Of course I didn't belive them at first plus the unknown history and not matching bed. What I looked for was if fuel system original like injection pump and injectors, they both had factory paint still and even my return lines were painted still. I also inspected the pedals condition as well and they checked out as not horribly worn but still damaged /warn. Around here you can tell if truck was used a small a log crummy buy chips from pedals and flooring damaged from their studded boots. Unfortunately I did have that damage but price was right and It didn't look like they used it long as front axle shaft had broken and never was fixed. You can kinda tell if millage is correct to an extent with pedals and usually injection pumps/ injectors will be replaced around 125xxx miles. I did have to replace them not too long after but it was expected.

 

[DrCharles]

And, it was sold as 'exempt' which means that it's not fraud in any case.

So when he assured me in front of a witness that the miles shown were correct, and if/when that statement is proven to be false, it's still not fraud? IANAL but I am sure that's a violation of something.

 

[DrCharles]

What I looked for was if fuel system original like injection pump and injectors, they both had factory paint still and even my return lines were painted still. I also inspected the pedals condition as well

I guess even if my 186k miles is real, it should be on its second set of injectors and pump. It does have a recent return-line kit.

 

[pelky350]

Yes, pedal wear is gonna be the best thing to look at, it also could be high millage and not have warn pedals if they were all highways miles But that's not a bad thing. Really warn pedals could indicated a lot of stop and go which is probably worse than high miles. But that's when the rubber is basically gone and the metal has been warm down and shiny. Idk about the fraud thing because the age of the truck it's kinda hard to tell what's happened in 30 years

 

[Macrobb]

So when he assured me in front of a witness that the miles shown were correct, and if/when that statement is proven to be false, it's still not fraud? IANAL but I am sure that's a violation of something.

Maybe? I don't know. If he was the original owner, you might have something. Or, he might have bought it from a guy who told /him/ that they were correct. The guy you bought it from might believe it is correct as well.

On my factory turbo '93, I was told that the previous owner(to the guy I bought it from) had put a newly rebuilt motor in 60K miles before now when the original one cavitated.

All I /really/ know is that my engine has a 1988-vintage intake manifold and doesn't look to ever have been apart. And has a 7.3D serial number, too.

And once I realized that the odometer rolls without any indication of having rolled, I literally have no clue. I was told that it was at 240K(380K KM)... but all I know is that it has at least that much.

 

[DrCharles]

As I noted in another thread, both heads are cracked But the shop tells me that the cross-hatching in the cylinder bores is quite clear and the piston tops look good. So maybe the 186k is real. Still doesn't make me feel that great since I just added a $1200 pair of rebuilt heads to my shop bill!

 

[Thewespaul]

How bad were the cracks and where were they? Most idi heads I have rebuilt were cracked, the location of that crack determines the severity of the situation, aka do you actually need a new set of heads

 

[Macrobb]

Yeah, pretty much. If the head was working fine before, why is it suddenly a problem now?

 

[pafixitman]

I bought my truck from Darrin as a "TMU" truck. Checked and signed by the box that stated "Actual miles unknown" on my Maryland motor vehicle registration and title paperwork. Imagine my surprise when my paper title showed up from MD DMV showing I owned a truck with 26,*** miles! Since I did not have the truck with me when I registered it, I had to provide photographic evidence of the vin and odometer. Guess it is easier to look at pictures than read paperwork.

 

[DrCharles]

Yeah, pretty much. If the head was working fine before, why is it suddenly a problem now?

Because both of them were leaking coolant when it got up to operating temperature...

 

[Macrobb]

Because both of them were leaking coolant when it got up to operating temperature...

Oh, and are the cracks somewhere that it would actually impact coolant leaking?
Usually, you'll see them in the pre-cups and sometimes between the valves; the last one might result in coolant leaking into the cylinder(Note: Not sure where the closest coolant passage is), but not out the sides

 

[DrCharles]

Info is second-hand from the machine shop via the mechanic. I haven't seen the heads personally.

But regardless of their location, after paying for 12.5 hours labor plus a head gasket set, I'm not about to have known cracked heads put back on and risk having to do the job all over again soon.