Alright!! The GP controller has got to go!

Diezel_Cowboy

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aaklingler said:
Nice drawing, but i think all your doing is connecting and disconnecting the ground. The heating element thing in the controller is still working as normal, correct? I think you have it though that your wts light will be on when ever your pushing the button.

The "heating element thing" you are refering to is a resistor, and when hooked up factory it does have something to do with the operation of the controller. However the white wire that I removed goes to the circuitry under the controller and acts as the glow plug controller's communication line to activate or deactivate the relay and hence the flow of power. SO since i unhooked the controller's communication line, no matter what the resistance is, my button will still work because the controller can no longer control the relay and flow of power to the glow plugs. Does that make it any more clear?

SO to answer your question directly, Yes the "heating element thingy" is still working, but the wire that it would use to tell the relay what to do has been removed and replaced with my switch wire.

Oh and I forgot to add to the picture that the controller itself has a ground wire that runs to the valve cover bolt this is how the factory setup gets its ground to control the relay itself when the white wire is hooked up as well. I just fixed the picture.
 
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kennyd

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aaklingler said:
Nice drawing, but i think all your doing is connecting and disconnecting the ground. The heating element thing in the controller is still working as normal, correct?

AAK,
The "heating element thing" is a actually a resistor. It is part of the GPC, and is what the GPC uses to "sence" how cold it is and for how long to operate the GP's. The white ground wire that was removed from the relay is what energizes the relay thus operating the GP's. That original "white wire" comes from the GPC and is controled by the GPC. So in thery, the controller is still working as normal, but since the white ground wire is disconnected, it cannot activate the relay, but it is to stupid to know that.

So when you take that white wire off, you effectivly seperate the GPC from the relay. The new ground wire from the momentary switch in the dash now control's or energizes the relay to activate the GP's.

What looks confusing is that the relay is physically attached to the GPC, but it is a seperate device.

Clear as mud?

Keep in mind that this is a very low tech system, it should have a real temp sensor that know's the temp of the engine, and not fire the GP's when the engine is hot.
 

kennyd

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Diezel,
Looks like we were typing at the same time and said pretty much the same thing, Very good explaination! :hail
 

aaklingler

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Maybe you guys are right but i'm thinking that as long as there is juice going through the relay it can turn the gps off when ever it wants and you can't tell because of where you moved the wts wire to. If you guys are happy with the way it works i'll quit arguing.
 

kennyd

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aaklingler said:
Maybe you guys are right but i'm thinking that as long as there is juice going through the relay it can turn the gps off when ever it wants and you can't tell because of where you moved the wts wire to. If you guys are happy with the way it works i'll quit arguing.


There is still "juice" going TO the relay, but it can't go THROUGH the relay if there is no GROUND. The white wire removed is the GROUND from the controller to the coil side of the relay.


I have been happy with mine for 2+ years...and with my AutoMeter Volt gauge, I can assure you I could tell if the GP's are glowing. :D
 

Diezel_Cowboy

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aaklingler said:
Maybe you guys are right but i'm thinking that as long as there is juice going through the relay it can turn the gps off when ever it wants and you can't tell because of where you moved the wts wire to. If you guys are happy with the way it works i'll quit arguing.


Well aaklinger, I just sent Mel a tech article on the subject so take a read and try it out for yourself! It is quite an improvement over the factory logic. ;Sweet
 

smokin_stroker00

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Well the cold weather results are in and the survey says.........................................................















It still won't start.The other night when I called to see what was going on .He was trying to get it to start with the heater plugged in and the battery charge on high. Now mind you the truck is down for a week because of the down pipe but it was only like mid 40's :rotflmao :rotflmao :rotflmao :rotflmao
 

idiabuse

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geez Im sure glad I live in Miam Fl cause I diconnected my glowplug system back in 2000 and I have no starting issues, especially after I installed a odeyssey 2150 battery, what a billy bad A$$ battery that sucker is.
after reading all this I hope you guys can gets those IDI cranked up
Javier
 

Diezel_Cowboy

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smokin_stroker00 said:
Well the cold weather results are in and the survey says.........................................................
It still won't start.The other night when I called to see what was going on .He was trying to get it to start with the heater plugged in and the battery charge on high. Now mind you the truck is down for a week because of the down pipe but it was only like mid 40's :rotflmao :rotflmao :rotflmao :rotflmao

Number one the glow plugs were working fine!, It was the batteries that were making it hard to start.....they have been going bad for some time now.
And Number two it was colder than 40 degrees that day, probably closer to at least 32 degrees. The only reason i pluged it in is just to make things easier on the batteries. cookoo :draw
 
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