Alright...my turn

[88 Ford]

Sounds like you are well on your way!!

Your description is great! Some pics would be good to help wrap my head around it even better. (I know its hard to remember to get the camera out when you are working on stuff.)

What he said. I am so confused about what your setup entails. Also, would you take a picture of the SC mount? I am interested in what your looks like compared to mine. But anyway, good work and I look forward to some pics.

 

[ih8minimumwage]

Okay, so you might have to modify your oil filler, or use a funnel to top it off, but the radiator hose I ended up with on my IDI routes right out of the way of your belt problem, I think. I had the same one as you, and when I went to replace it, I ended up with the crazy bent one. I had to rotate my oil filler (old style 6.9) to work around it, but it might be easier than dealing with a crazy long belt & multiple tensioners.

Might fit, might not, just wanted to throw it out there.

I just ran out to my truck to get pics and see if it still had it's part number on it... It did, Goodyear 61324.

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Supposedly for a non-AC 6.9, but since your motor has the vacuum pump pully changing the routing of the AC versus the old style, in theory it might work.

 

[88 Ford]

Okay, so you might have to modify your oil filler, or use a funnel to top it off, but the radiator hose I ended up with on my IDI routes right out of the way of your belt problem, I think. I had the same one as you, and when I went to replace it, I ended up with the crazy bent one. I had to rotate my oil filler (old style 6.9) to work around it, but it might be easier than dealing with a crazy long belt & multiple tensioners.

Might fit, might not, just wanted to throw it out there.

I just ran out to my truck to get pics and see if it still had it's part number on it... It did, Goodyear 61324.

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Supposedly for a non-AC 6.9, but since your motor has the vacuum pump pully changing the routing of the AC versus the old style, in theory it might work.

Looks like it could work to me...

 

[seawalkersee]

You obviously do not know the level or extent of my thrift. I already have the top hose and it is new (well...2 yrs old but less than 10k). Now, as far as the total investment, it is hard to say. I have a few of the SCs lyin around (total of 3) and the one on there now is going to work until I port my 94/5 style. I do not have the early model oil fill. I have a 7.3 IP cover.

The mount is actually a 3/8 piece of flat plate that has 3 nuts welded to it to make it fit/mount to the SC. I bolted it together and welded it up. Unfortunately, I did not leave enough material to make it rigid enough to handle the thrust and it bent the flat plate. I am going to add angle iron to all sides to make it stronger (probably will have them cut today). That flat plate is mounted to the top of the bracket to which the filter housing bolts. It was cut to make it as low as possible (has to clear the injector lines) and to keep it low enough to run a top under the stock hood.

I had the idler pullies done, but one is just about 1/32" cocked to the side (trying to weld and keep an eye on the kiddies, moved the plate, yadda yadda yadda) so I am goign to drill and tap the end of another one and make the pullies farther apart. Once they are welded together, I will tack them in place to make sure the belt is on and the teensioner is not all the way loose. once that is done, I have some more tacking in place to do (remember the angle iron on the blower mount) to secure the front of the blower mount to the plate to which the idler pullies are mounted, and then make a plate that bolts the two together. Once that is done, I hope to have a few other odds and inns to do. I still have to mount the blower/AC case, a piece onto the lower core support to mount the condenser, swap the factory oil supply line with a hard mount so I can make the factory gauge and autometer gauge work together.

It will then start and run under its own power. It will still be NA until I can make the top I want (outlet to the SC and inlet to the intake), which should only take a few hours once I get the right height to fit under the hood. I will get pix today and hope to have the time to get them uploaded by tomorrow.

I have done 99% of the cutting with a grinder and used about 99% scrap metal that I have had just lying around. I think I paid for the plate to mount the blower and the #40 5" to make the intak adapter. So with the $50ish for the belt, $30ish for the tensioners, and we will say $50ish for other metal, its been relatively cheap. However, I have unknow hours in this since I am still tying up other endes (like the hydroboost and AC).

I DID say before that I would have down the PS remote mount if I would have had it before I started this. According to (I think it was) Pedro, his lines would have cost him $300 and the pump. I would have done that and be done a LONG time ago. I have some 3" mandral bent exhaust pipe that I am going to use for my T-bird projects, that would have been perfect for the project. Walker brand tail pipe from Autozone was $35 bux. That is actually what the muffler back is on this rig.

SWS

 

[88 Ford]

You obviously do not know the level or extent of my thrift. I already have the top hose and it is new (well...2 yrs old but less than 10k). Now, as far as the total investment, it is hard to say. I have a few of the SCs lyin around (total of 3) and the one on there now is going to work until I port my 94/5 style. I do not have the early model oil fill. I have a 7.3 IP cover.

The mount is actually a 3/8 piece of flat plate that has 3 nuts welded to it to make it fit/mount to the SC. I bolted it together and welded it up. Unfortunately, I did not leave enough material to make it rigid enough to handle the thrust and it bent the flat plate. I am going to add angle iron to all sides to make it stronger (probably will have them cut today). That flat plate is mounted to the top of the bracket to which the filter housing bolts. It was cut to make it as low as possible (has to clear the injector lines) and to keep it low enough to run a top under the stock hood.

I had the idler pullies done, but one is just about 1/32" cocked to the side (trying to weld and keep an eye on the kiddies, moved the plate, yadda yadda yadda) so I am goign to drill and tap the end of another one and make the pullies farther apart. Once they are welded together, I will tack them in place to make sure the belt is on and the teensioner is not all the way loose. once that is done, I have some more tacking in place to do (remember the angle iron on the blower mount) to secure the front of the blower mount to the plate to which the idler pullies are mounted, and then make a plate that bolts the two together. Once that is done, I hope to have a few other odds and inns to do. I still have to mount the blower/AC case, a piece onto the lower core support to mount the condenser, swap the factory oil supply line with a hard mount so I can make the factory gauge and autometer gauge work together.

It will then start and run under its own power. It will still be NA until I can make the top I want (outlet to the SC and inlet to the intake), which should only take a few hours once I get the right height to fit under the hood. I will get pix today and hope to have the time to get them uploaded by tomorrow.

I have done 99% of the cutting with a grinder and used about 99% scrap metal that I have had just lying around. I think I paid for the plate to mount the blower and the #40 5" to make the intak adapter. So with the $50ish for the belt, $30ish for the tensioners, and we will say $50ish for other metal, its been relatively cheap. However, I have unknow hours in this since I am still tying up other endes (like the hydroboost and AC).

I DID say before that I would have down the PS remote mount if I would have had it before I started this. According to (I think it was) Pedro, his lines would have cost him $300 and the pump. I would have done that and be done a LONG time ago. I have some 3" mandral bent exhaust pipe that I am going to use for my T-bird projects, that would have been perfect for the project. Walker brand tail pipe from Autozone was $35 bux. That is actually what the muffler back is on this rig.

SWS

Sounds like it is coming along well. I look forward to more pics. And as far as the PSD turbo goes, you could always push it through the SC eventually depending on how much boost you are looking for. But anyway, I know that is more boost than you are looking for. it would just be cool. Haha.

 

[seawalkersee]

Now that I have committed to using the blower for the bronco, I have a new purpose for the turbo.

I did not get pix today. The wind was wippin in and around the hood so I could not get any welding done either. So, I tied up some more loose ends and did not get pix. Maybee tomarrah.

SWS

 

[88 Ford]

I look forward to the pics. And if you don't mind me asking, what are you doing with the turbo now?

 

[seawalkersee]

I have a high compression 357 in one of my cars. It was the engine that pulled the Bronco like a beast. I figured putting it in the car after I got the diesel was the only logical thing to do with it. At that time, I had GT 40 heads on it that I spent quite a while porting and polishing. Sold them to a buddy along with some other goodies and picked up a set of Eddy heads. The 40s were 62cc I think and the Eddys are 52 or somthing like that. With the itty bitty cam I had (only to promote torque...and it worked) would fry the tires in second until it started to jump off of the ground. I figured if I put the turbo on that and can make 5 psi on pump gas without pinging, I will be good 'till I can get a good set of AFRs and knock the boost way up. I bet I will be over 4XX at the tires with this first combo. If you go to my supermotors page, you can see a lot of the stuff I have and had. Both car plans (old plans as I now have a SC setup for the 4.6) and the bronco stuff is there.

SWS

SWS

 

[seawalkersee]

I ran out and got the pix before starting the work today to show you what I have to finish prior to hitting the key...

If you look at the plate, it bends. I have to cut the booger weld off of the center of the mount so I can run a piece of anlge iron on it strong. Then, I have to level/center/adjust it and weld in the rear mount.

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This piece mounts to the lower alt mount which is also mounted to the waterpump. I had this piece already and had to make that nifty cut around the alt with a grinder...YES...a grinder. Not bragging, just saying it sucked. You will see this piece again as it is where I am going to have to mount the new idler setup.

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This is the piece that I started with the two idler pullies. One is just cocked off to the side enough so I am going to make another one that is just a bit different. It is going to be welded in this area(ish) to keep the belt right. I KNOW it is going to work this way, but I will have to support the tensioner or the back of the mount behind here because of the deflection.

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Request for the overall engine shot...

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From where the tensioner sits...

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More to come...have to clear some memory...and do work.

SWS

 

[88 Ford]

Your project is coming along nicely an. Thanks for the in depth pics. They help a lot. Also what is that tap on the front of the SC? Aren't M90s lubrication self contained or is it something else? Also with that setup, do plan on intercooling it eventually? It would be pretty easy to add an air-to-air or even and air-to-water intercooler. That would be good especially if you start getting close to 10psi. You would probably even be able to bump up the boost a lil more if you intercooled it. Just a thought I had after I saw your pics. But anyway good work man and I can't wait to see it done.

 

[seawalkersee]

You can see the hole I will be using for the other idler pully. I had it tacked up and it was just a bit too tight for my liking. All the way at the limit. It was pulling the idlers towards the engine (remember I said that I was worried about that) and out of line. So, I pulled it off and loosened it by moving it up. Just tacked again though since I did it off of the vehicle.

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This is one view of the SC mount. It is the fuel filter mounting plate with the top cut off.

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Other views.

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When I went to pull this off, I thought I was going to have to cut some of the parts. I had to trim the bottom of the plate that would allow me to put it on and take it off without unthreading the intake studs. The cut areas are the shiny parts on the back here> VVVVV

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88, are you asking about the line on the side that runs to the bottom? That is the fuel line and is not connected. It only looks that way. I am going to have to figure out a way to make it go back the other direction, mount the head on the pass side of the sc and run the inlet line from the under the sc to the IP. More later.

SWS

 

[88 Ford]

Your brackets look good. And ya thats what I was talkin about. My bad...

 

[seawalkersee]

No problem...I was sure to include it in this series of pix.

Some of the time, no matter how carefull you are, you still get one down inside the glove. It burned through the rubber (obvioulsy) so no matter HOW I moved my hand, I had to wait for the heat transfer on that spot.

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Yep...thats gonna leave a mark. Oh well, man up, take it in stride, and move ahead.

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Here is the one that shows the fuel line. I have built the 90* angle iron stuff around this side of the mount. It is going to support the front plate (where the idlers are) as well as adding the strength. Now, I need to add gussets to the mounting points.

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I am trying to get the entire engine shot in this with the belt on, without too much radiator showin.

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You have to try to think this out from all aspects of this as you go and look for any surprises. Here, you can see the gap between the pully and the upper hose. Bad news is that the left (pass side) pully is hitting the alt.

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This is where I am going to mount another plate. I have to have more time as I am getting ready to go to work now. I will get that plate built, and will only have a few other things left to do...

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This is probably the hardest part of the mocking process. I had it set, but it was too tight. I moved it without the left pully, and now it hits the alt. You can not move it with the pully on it because it is in the way, and you have to move it and mark it seperately. So, you hold it, mark the top, unbolt the pully, mark the bottom and tack the top. Bolt the pully back on and see. That is the first process. It works best, but I pulled all of the brackets off to get some welding done to them, and could not put it all back together to get the mock done. So, there will be at least 1 more try at that.

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SWS

 

[seawalkersee]

Left to do.
1)get a new AC box and hook up the wiring
2)new FOT for the AC
3)need some AC
4)fix the top
5)make an inlet for the back of the sc
6)fix the steering by putting the bolt back in the u-joint I made
7)move the p/s cooler to the outside of the frame (thats a gonna be messy)
8)move the lines from the p/s to the hydroboost so they do not get caught in the steering
9)...and hardest, is to get the top back from my homeboy who is trimming it down. He has had some excellent ideas of what to do to make it work. We were on the same page, but his fresh eyes on my concept will work wonders.

And before I go too long, I have to give thanks to him. So, for all of you who know the b-mod guys around here, the RPM Motorsports #75 car is always going to be my favorite.

Thanks for being a pal Scotty.

SWS

 

[towtruckdave]

This is so cool. Let me know if you need any parts I might have.

I am looking forward to hearing how this helps power.

Good job so far.