justinray
Contributor
If I put a cooler inline with an amsoil remote filter setup, would I lose a detrimental amount of pressure in my lube system?
Aftermarket oil cooler question
- Thread starter justinray
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icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
The amsoil remote filter setup I believe is a bypass type system. And for that reason I feel you will not loose any pressure but one word of warning. Another member had an extra oil cooler setup with rubber hoses and clamps. He blew off a softened hose and lost all the oil. Heard the noise of the engine death rattle but it was too late to save the engine. Use only an screwed, threaded fitting. Thats what my Banks turbo has for a feed line. Remember what pressures the oil is under too.
JIC fittings like Gary refered to would be best for the remote oil cooler.
Like Gary, I have JIC fittings on my turbo lube line............ and on the 6.9, I have JIC fitting on the remote mounted oil pressure sending unit and oil pressure safety switch for the fuel pump. They are mounted on the passenger's side firewall.
Heath
Like Gary, I have JIC fittings on my turbo lube line............ and on the 6.9, I have JIC fitting on the remote mounted oil pressure sending unit and oil pressure safety switch for the fuel pump. They are mounted on the passenger's side firewall.
Heath
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jaluhn83
Full Access Member
Agree, use high pressure line, none of that rubber stuff. Not personally familiar with the setup you reference but it shouldn't cause much trouble. These engines run a high volume system, so bleeding a bit shouldn't hurt much.
However, I'm not sure a bypass flow cooler would help that much. You're not flowing enough volume most likely to really cool the oil much. With the stock system the full soil flow goes through the cooler and you're dumping a lot of heat through the oil on these engines.
However, I'm not sure a bypass flow cooler would help that much. You're not flowing enough volume most likely to really cool the oil much. With the stock system the full soil flow goes through the cooler and you're dumping a lot of heat through the oil on these engines.
justinray
Contributor
Running this http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...3l-powerstroke-oil-bypass-unit/?code=BMK26-EA from the stock filter location to the filter head it comes with, then to this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bmm-70266?seid=google&gclid=CJPg1I2D07UCFQo3nAodbHwABw, or something of the sort, then to the engine.
Plan on doing coolers for the power steering, oil, transmission, and an intercooler, and have a pretty good idea as to how to do it without stressing the cooling system, or the a/c.
Plan on doing coolers for the power steering, oil, transmission, and an intercooler, and have a pretty good idea as to how to do it without stressing the cooling system, or the a/c.
jaluhn83
Full Access Member
Okay, I see now. Couple things:
You'll need a thermostat of some sort. Otherwise you'll never get the oil up to temp in normal operation which is very bad. You want to get oil temps up to around 180* as soon as possible. I've got an oil sump temp gauge on my rig and oil sump temps lag the coolant temp a good bit as it is - it takes a good 10 miles on the freeway to get the sump up to normal temp. With a full flow air cooler I doubt you'll get up to 180 any time other than hard pulls. Getting the oil temp up is critical to drive off condensation and it also is important for effective lubrication, filtration and efficient operation of the engine.
I don't think the cooler you linked is big enough. The idi oil pump is rated 18.2 gpm @ 3000 rpm. Best I can find for a SBC is 5-6 gpm. I'd want a cooler with at least 3/4 and ideally 1" flow ports and a comparably sized core for a full flow cooler.
What I think would work better would be to setup a dedicated oil circuit with a bypass filter and a cooler - use a small electric pump or some sort on belt driven setup to get a few gpm flow through a cooler and then back to the sump, then add a bypass filter bleeding off the main oil system (probably tie into the turbo feed line) Problem is it's not cheap to get an oil rated electric pump. Might try building something belt driven.
You'll need a thermostat of some sort. Otherwise you'll never get the oil up to temp in normal operation which is very bad. You want to get oil temps up to around 180* as soon as possible. I've got an oil sump temp gauge on my rig and oil sump temps lag the coolant temp a good bit as it is - it takes a good 10 miles on the freeway to get the sump up to normal temp. With a full flow air cooler I doubt you'll get up to 180 any time other than hard pulls. Getting the oil temp up is critical to drive off condensation and it also is important for effective lubrication, filtration and efficient operation of the engine.
I don't think the cooler you linked is big enough. The idi oil pump is rated 18.2 gpm @ 3000 rpm. Best I can find for a SBC is 5-6 gpm. I'd want a cooler with at least 3/4 and ideally 1" flow ports and a comparably sized core for a full flow cooler.
What I think would work better would be to setup a dedicated oil circuit with a bypass filter and a cooler - use a small electric pump or some sort on belt driven setup to get a few gpm flow through a cooler and then back to the sump, then add a bypass filter bleeding off the main oil system (probably tie into the turbo feed line) Problem is it's not cheap to get an oil rated electric pump. Might try building something belt driven.
idiabuse
Full Access Member
It is much cheaper and better to use the oem style filter and add the bypass filter only, the extra lines usually undersized will cause low volume due to the added length #10 size line is a minimum if you were to plumb a dual filter AMSOIL bypass unit.
I rather leave the OEM filter and just add a single bypass filter with the small 1/4 oil lines feed and return, much cheaper and easier on your work load.
The AMSOIL oil filter for a powerstroke is an EAO99 and cost about $25 the Bypass has 3/4 different sizes, our trucks call for the EABP100 and cost about $38 the filter head cost about $50 and the fittings and hose? you may have laying around.
Finding an oil pressure port is easy on our trucks and if you need a return oil line to the engine you could use the fuel pump hole if you have an electric or you can use a special fitting made to screw into a stamped steel oil pan or valve cover to return cleaned oil.
I bolted on a 30+ year old AMSOIl Bypass steel can on mine and it works great, best part is I have an extra filter and I got the kit for free!
I added a few pics, the oil filter adaptor is from AMSOIL and is a much better made oil manifold than the permacool option that is the only option to add cooler/filters. That one will not hinder volume delivery with small orfices like the Permacool oil filter adapter.
I am NOT using the oil filter adapter I have a EAO99 AMSOIL filter screwed onto the OEM filter location.
Javier
I rather leave the OEM filter and just add a single bypass filter with the small 1/4 oil lines feed and return, much cheaper and easier on your work load.
The AMSOIL oil filter for a powerstroke is an EAO99 and cost about $25 the Bypass has 3/4 different sizes, our trucks call for the EABP100 and cost about $38 the filter head cost about $50 and the fittings and hose? you may have laying around.
Finding an oil pressure port is easy on our trucks and if you need a return oil line to the engine you could use the fuel pump hole if you have an electric or you can use a special fitting made to screw into a stamped steel oil pan or valve cover to return cleaned oil.
I bolted on a 30+ year old AMSOIl Bypass steel can on mine and it works great, best part is I have an extra filter and I got the kit for free!
I added a few pics, the oil filter adaptor is from AMSOIL and is a much better made oil manifold than the permacool option that is the only option to add cooler/filters. That one will not hinder volume delivery with small orfices like the Permacool oil filter adapter.
I am NOT using the oil filter adapter I have a EAO99 AMSOIL filter screwed onto the OEM filter location.
Javier
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idiabuse
Full Access Member
If you just use the AMSOIL lubricant you wont need any cooler because the lubricant will withstand 450F without breaking down like the popular brands do.
If you use the popular cheap lubes then yes add oil cooler! International made one for our engines and even UHaul had to add additional oil can for the severe service they put on the 6.9/7.3 .
I would not add any oil cooler to the IDI just not necessary.
Javier
jaluhn83
Full Access Member
Even if it can stand that temp, that doesn't mean it's good for the oil or the engine.... Something like 180-220* is the optimal oil temp but for engine and oil longevity.
Whether you need an additional cooler to keep it at that temp is another question. I find that my oil sump temp will get up to 230-240* under a prolonged heavy load, but that's with a turbo. On a non turbo I doubt it's gets that hot. Even with the turbo it's not really needed. On the other hand, it certainly doesn't hurt to add cooling capacity, provided you have some sort of thermal regulation to keep from over cooling.
Adding more oil cooling will also help reduce the load on the engine cooling system. A pretty significant amount of heat is dumped into the oil via the piston cooling jet, which then gets dumped into the water.
Whether you need an additional cooler to keep it at that temp is another question. I find that my oil sump temp will get up to 230-240* under a prolonged heavy load, but that's with a turbo. On a non turbo I doubt it's gets that hot. Even with the turbo it's not really needed. On the other hand, it certainly doesn't hurt to add cooling capacity, provided you have some sort of thermal regulation to keep from over cooling.
Adding more oil cooling will also help reduce the load on the engine cooling system. A pretty significant amount of heat is dumped into the oil via the piston cooling jet, which then gets dumped into the water.
idiabuse
Full Access Member
sounds all great but not worth the the money spent on cooler, lines, therm and labor.
I keep a piece of thin styrofoam to block about half my radiator here in Miam Fl to get my truck up to operating temps sooner and overall hotter.
I would actually like to keep the engine around 220/240 range, all day long, I will get better MPG and less smoke so I am working on this at the moment. I really need to by a nice electronic fan controller and a nice fan setup to achieve a warmer engine.
A new alum radiator has alot of qualities we need in our trucks. Me on the other hand would never add water into any diesel engine, that will surely cause it to boil over eventually.
I like driving my truck, not so much working on it. If you have to do it twice
Javier
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