AFR Gauge Anyone?

Thewespaul

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Well its been too long, I've been very busy and haven't spent much time around a computer in the pass six or so months so I hope everyone is doing well.

Although I have been busy I still have found time to make some changes to my 93, and I think I'm pretty close to using nitrous!

So I've been thinking about trying this setup because well, I could and I wanted to try something new. However, I've been very precautious with this idea and haven't just slapped on a dry kit and headed to the track, instead I've setup an AFR (Air/Fuel ratio) gauge on my A-pillar that reads through a standalone O2 sensor (cost more than the nitrous kit). The purpose of this is to be able to see how much fuel is being used in comparison to the amount of air being released from the exhaust. This is an important piece in any tuning because it allows me to add nitrous and not lean out the mixture to the point of predetonation, which is my main concern with this venture.

So here's my findings, with the supporting mods in my sig, I've found that the engine runs dead lean (20+) in normal driving conditions but at WOT runs in third gear, the AFR starts at 12.3 and leans out to 17.8 around 65 mph or 3500 rpms where I shift, its also important to note that past 2700 rpms I notice little to no smoke. So my questions for the idi masters of the forum ( :hail ), what AFR do you think I should jet for? Should I retard my timing for running nitrous? Hopefully this information is as interesting for ya'll as it is for me, I don't think anyone has ever done AFR readings on our trucks (or had a reason to)

I do have the nitrous completely installed just need time to prepare and tune as well as some odd fittings I need to pick up, I'll post pictures of anything anyone wants to see as well as post data logs of the exact AFR results (once I figure it out)
 

79jasper

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Diesels don't run lean. It's called efficiency.
Guess what happens if you remove or add fuel? Idle down and up, respectively.

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Thewespaul

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Diesels don't run lean. It's called efficiency.
Guess what happens if you remove or add fuel? Idle down and up, respectively.

Well that's true, not complaining about my idi one bit, but adding air is effectively what nitrous does, (I'm of course using a dry kit) you don't gain any horsepower from running nitrous alone, it just allows you to burn more fuel.
 

79jasper

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Correct. Allows you to burn more fuel efficiently.
A pyrometer would be best for getting everything tuned right.
A/F would be all over the place.

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Thewespaul

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I've heard that before with the pyro but was concerned about the nitrous heating the pistons themselves with the increased fuel being burned in turn causing higher egts...Would you think that would cause much effect on the egts or not?
 

laserjock

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Opacity might be the better measurement. If you are over fueling you make soot. That is how you tune the smoke puff limiter. Opacity is just a sensor for what your eye is telling you.
 

Thewespaul

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Opacity might be the better measurement. If you are over fueling you make soot. That is how you tune the smoke puff limiter. Opacity is just a sensor for what your eye is telling you.

That would be a great option but it barely smokes at all in higher rpms... mostly a haze if anything, so if I add any nitrous i doubt there will be anything there at all.
 

79jasper

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EGT'S should drop or stay the same. Shouldn't go up.
You will actually be turning that extra fuel into power instead of wasted energy.

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laserjock

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There will always be particulate. It's just a light source and a photodiode.
 

laserjock

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The color is more a result of particle size than anything else. The diode gives you a voltage readout you can plumb to a gauge just like any other voltage driven sensor. You just have to calibrate it.

It's really straight forward...in my head anyway. [emoji6]
 

riotwarrior

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Look u need to explain this O2 sensore and guage so we understand...our rigs dont have puters...so how u make it go???

Then the discussions can begin....:backoff
 

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