even swap 
Added two more doors.
- Thread starter Leeland
- Start date
we'll see.Forgot:
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That's the temp gauge and where it's going until I find one more worth while gauges. Then my un cut bezel will go back in and the pillar pod. Planning on a coolant temp no idea on the second, maybe fuel pressure for diag purposes
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79jasper
Chickenhawk
Nice. Hard to tell, is that alum?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Yep. Same number.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
Cleaned head bolt holes today. I'm not sure how many other people do this but here's my preferred method.
Before, only removed alignment dowel.
After thread chaser. Doesn't do much for cleaning. Not talking repair.
After stainless bore brush. Used two sizes, one for the dowel bore and one on all head bolt hole threads.
I fill each bolt hole with brake clean and let sit for a few minutes and with my driver on reverse I press the bore brush down the bore and let the brush push it's self up. If you put your driver or drill on forward it will bottom out the brush and destroy it if it's to big for the bore. Just 3-4 passes each bolt hole removes most rust and oil. Blew the bolt holes out when done. Don't even bother with taps or thread chasers in the head bolt holes any more. It's rare to need to on head bolt holes after cleaning them. You will have to use your own judgement if it needs a tap or thread chaser afterwards. Every thing else I do use a thread chaser though.
Box of brushes from Cornwell was $12, obviously they can be found cheaper. These just fit my driver, the box has sizes to fit Detroit DD head bolt holes and the 6.9 block.
Before, only removed alignment dowel.
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After thread chaser. Doesn't do much for cleaning. Not talking repair.
You must be registered for see images attach
After stainless bore brush. Used two sizes, one for the dowel bore and one on all head bolt hole threads.
You must be registered for see images attach
I fill each bolt hole with brake clean and let sit for a few minutes and with my driver on reverse I press the bore brush down the bore and let the brush push it's self up. If you put your driver or drill on forward it will bottom out the brush and destroy it if it's to big for the bore. Just 3-4 passes each bolt hole removes most rust and oil. Blew the bolt holes out when done. Don't even bother with taps or thread chasers in the head bolt holes any more. It's rare to need to on head bolt holes after cleaning them. You will have to use your own judgement if it needs a tap or thread chaser afterwards. Every thing else I do use a thread chaser though.
You must be registered for see images attach
Box of brushes from Cornwell was $12, obviously they can be found cheaper. These just fit my driver, the box has sizes to fit Detroit DD head bolt holes and the 6.9 block.
You must be registered for see images attach
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I dont tap head or main bolt holes, always brush then chase if needed, usually make a chaser out of one of the old head bolts.
make it a 2-3 flute bolt and donski!
Because you came from Brattain. ISIS says to run a tap in the bolt holes.
Good pointer Russ about the mains. I don't get to keep head bolts though. It's almost always warranty.
Just lose one lol
Yeah I know. Just messing.lol
Figured. But repurposing couple head bolts ain't a bad idea if your a fleet guy in need of a cheap thread chase or head alignment studs.
Chit picture. I've measured all my installed heights. Shims on order. Have one head pretty well cleaned up. I've done more then just clean head bolt holes.
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Chit picture. I've measured all my installed heights. Shims on order. Have one head pretty well cleaned up. I've done more then just clean head bolt holes.
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