Added two more doors.

Leeland

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Most common types of wheel seal failure: incorrect wheel bearing preload and plugged vent. Mine would be the later.

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laserjock

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Yeah, I found mine plugged too. And guess what. It needs a wheel seal. [emoji107]
 

Leeland

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So far I've mixed 93,94, and 97 harness's. And what I've learned so far is the 93 stuff doesn't play well with 94 and up. Like stated previously I went ahead and just replaced the 93 passenger door harness vs re-pinning it. It would have been possible and not too bad to just re-pin it but I wanted the correct color coding. Found another harness I'm going to replace. My sprayer motor has been inop for some time, while going after it I found my wipers inop. Verified regulator operation down by the passenger kick panel just behind the glove box. Had power coming out and terminating at the fire wall pass through. Compared pin locations between the engine bay side(93), the current dash harness on the cabin side(94), and my 97 stroke dash and engine bay harness's. The 93 is pinned differently once again, this time re-pinning it wouldn't be feasible. The connector housing backing would have to be drilled, the wires moved and the housing looks like a pain just to get apart. On top of it who knows if any thing else is in the wrong pin location. Time wise I'll be ahead just to swap out the engine bay harness for a 94 unit.
 

Leeland

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So I do have my back doors operational now, I pulled the seats, pulled up the carpet and ran the harness across the the cab. For now my dome light/cargo light jumper harness is disconnected. Was on a time crunch to have the truck running and didn't feel like fooling with the head liner. Also wanted time to kinda figure out where the second dome light goes on a newer truck and see about putting in the over head console I got.
 

IDIoit

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pictures of where you mounted the switches and what switches you used or it didnt happen! :D
 

Leeland

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Also have on board air and air bags and probably air horns in the works.

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My free compressor that'll get me by for now.
I still have to source a leveling valve from work, a safety valve, pressure switch, fittings, gauge, and maybe some air ride seat valves Etc
 
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Leeland

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Factory switches. I used all factory parts for my swap and found out the hard way the changes through the OBS years.
Pretty sure this pic already got posted in my thread but owell.
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Leeland

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Buddies truck is coming apart for for his 12v swap. Then eventually his 6.9 and banks will be going into mine for a little while.
 

Leeland

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I'm curious to see the difference if any over my current set up.
 

Leeland

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And you can thumbs down the Cummins all you want, that's where I'm headed too ;Poke
 

Leeland

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If there was a rear structure for a dt366 to mount a zf5 to it I'd do it. Or had the money for a c7, I'd swing that too. But I haven't found a easy dt swap and don't have money for a Cat. I can get Cummins parts cheap, they're still well supported. I'm not ditching my IDI any time soon, but my goal is a straight 6. The 6.9 is getting new HG's and studs before it goes in and already has fresh injectors. I have a stupid duty CAC to mount and plumb and wanting to find a hx35 or something different to hang on it instead of the banks or ATS set ups I got.
 

asmith

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so why the in between step of going to the 6.9 from the 7.3 then to a straight six of some kind? why not just go straight to the six? by the way thanks for the info on putting in power rear windows, when i find my next truck that is something I want to eventually do.
 
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