F250 1993 turbo dis a hose blew up on my ac got the hose $145.00 got the system vacum the shop said the system would get up to 500 when charging and that he could not charge system cause it would blow the hose again that i had to get system flush i though vacum is same as flush what you think is a/c prblem im in alice tx near corpus cristi.tx
A/C
- Thread starter sarnhun
- Start date
If the head presure is getting that high, you most likely have a clogged orfice tube.
Next question...why ?
Had a compressor previously locked up on the thing?
What usually causes that is a locked up compressor where the innards eat themselves up and find their way throughout the system.Just replacing the compressor is a very short term fix.
If a repair had been done and that kind of crud is in the system, you can pretty well guarentee that the compressor is not long for this world.
You can try flushing the system, which in this case would require seperating all the hoses and componants , remove the condensor ( it will have the most gunk it it most likely )and adding a special AC cleaner and blowing it out, then installing a new orfice tube and accumulator.
In your climate, it would be good to spend a few extra bucks and get a variable orfice valve instead of a standard replacement orfice tube, it will make the ac much cooler.
Might as well plan on a new compressor. www.nostalgicairparts.com has great prices onvnew ones, cheaper than rebuilts at most places ( and great prices on hose repairs, next time, send them the old hose and they'll put new rubber on your fittings for a tiny fraction of what you paid for a new hose ).
If you really want to fill your brain, go to www.aircondition.com
-------Robert
Next question...why ?
Had a compressor previously locked up on the thing?
What usually causes that is a locked up compressor where the innards eat themselves up and find their way throughout the system.Just replacing the compressor is a very short term fix.
If a repair had been done and that kind of crud is in the system, you can pretty well guarentee that the compressor is not long for this world.
You can try flushing the system, which in this case would require seperating all the hoses and componants , remove the condensor ( it will have the most gunk it it most likely )and adding a special AC cleaner and blowing it out, then installing a new orfice tube and accumulator.
In your climate, it would be good to spend a few extra bucks and get a variable orfice valve instead of a standard replacement orfice tube, it will make the ac much cooler.
Might as well plan on a new compressor. www.nostalgicairparts.com has great prices onvnew ones, cheaper than rebuilts at most places ( and great prices on hose repairs, next time, send them the old hose and they'll put new rubber on your fittings for a tiny fraction of what you paid for a new hose ).
If you really want to fill your brain, go to www.aircondition.com
-------Robert
I am in the process of replacing a locked up compressor . I guess when I get it off I will be able to tell if it simply locked up (vs chewed up ) by looking for burned oil or metal particles at the hose manifold connections . My Ford cd manual is not very detailed the A/C stuff . I really would like to get some recommendations on detailed manual with good diagrams / pictures ( web links to one online would be even better ) . - Thanks
If your comp is locked up, you will need to thoroughly flush the entire system or you WILL eat another compressor in short time. Go to ww.aircondition.com to get an education, great site.
--------Robert
I got the compressor off . There is no residue in the manifold or inside the high side outlet ( I checked with a q-tip) . However , sniffing in the back of compressor it smelled sort ofburnt . So I guess in am looking for a tutorial ( with diagrams or pictures ) on how to to this on this particular vehicle . -Thanks
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You generally won't find any crud right at the compressor, usually it will find it's way to the orfice tube screen, you will need to pull tht out and take a look at it.
Really is best to flush the system, it will save you money inthe long run, also check www.nostalgicairparts for a price on a new compressor ( email or call him if you don't see yours on the website, he has them ) they are usually cheaper than a rebuilt, and the quality of a good portion of the rebuilt compressors out there isn't very good.
--------Robert
OK,I will check the the orifice tube but I need some directions for that procedure on this vehicle ( 1994 F250 IDI 7.3 NA E4OD ). - Thanks
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f-two-fiddy
Registered User
If your servicing your AC, You NEED to read this: http://www.imcool.com/articles/aircondition/VOV1.htm
http://aircondition.com/vov/
http://aircondition.com/vov/
Thanks for the link . Is installing that particular tube/valve a must ( I want to get parts locally because I want to the job this weeknd if possible)? Anymore tips ? I also have googled around for all about ford diesel ac and found some more info . It looks like now I can get to the tube and remove it. Hopefully it will be clean but if not I will flush the system . Now about flushing the system - Do I need to disconnect components ( obviously the compressor and accumulator will be out) and flush each hose and component (hoses,condensor,evaporator ) individually ? What is the best way to do it . Some old timers I know say if you don't have a flushing system, just use lots (at least a gallon ) of mineral spirits instead of that flush chemical. - Thanks
Edit - Now the tube is out - things look better than the "black death" photo found in my google search .
Photo of hose manifold connection - http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d70/rkpatt/100_3419.jpg
Photo of orifice tube - http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d70/rkpatt/100_3424-2.jpg
Edit - Now the tube is out - things look better than the "black death" photo found in my google search .
Photo of hose manifold connection - http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d70/rkpatt/100_3419.jpg
Photo of orifice tube - http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d70/rkpatt/100_3424-2.jpg
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You can buy the variable orfice valve at most all Napa and Advance auto parts. It is listed as adjustable orfice tube under a diferent number, look on the VOV website for alternative part numbers from different distributors.
By the picture there is definitely some crud in there . It may not look like much, but where there's smoke , there's fire. There will be more settled into the condensor.Remember, that compressor didn't just magically stop because it was having a bad hair day, it seized up because something wore out and it went grinding to a halt.
To flush, it's pretty easy, just very time consuming. disconnect all the componants( best if you can remove the condensor , the thing in front of the radiator ) get a jug of ac flush ( available at most good parts stores, it will be behind the counter, not out front ) pour it in one end of the componant, swish it around run it out the other and blow it clear with dry air ( if you don't have a water removing device on your air compressor, it will still work, but you best vacuum out the system for about an hour or so longer to make sure to get all the moisture out ) It takes patience to get it out of the condensor and the evaporator.
Some people opt to not flush the evaporator since it's soo hard to clear and they figure the screen on the orfice tube caught most of the heavy stuff. That's a personal choice , on a customer car, I wouldn't skip it.
If you absoloutely don't have access to what's needed to flush it out, there are a few places that sell filters that can be installed in the line before the orfice tube , where you cut the line with a tubing cutter and install the filter with compression fitings. Not the best way to do things, but....
---------Robert
RLDSL- About how much flush do you think I need . I can only find 32oz bottles nearby . Getting that condensor off looks pretty time consuming - any suggestions on getting it off easily ? Will flushing it in place cause more problems vs not flushing at all ? I would consider getting one of those inline filter regardless if I can find one close by . - Thanks
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one 32 oz bottle should be plenty.
Weather or not to remove the condensor depends on the type. If it has an inlet on the top and the pipes run horozontaly and down with a fitting on the bottom, then it can be left in, if not, yank it. you'l have to pop the grill off and it shouldn't be too hard from there. It's easier to pull that thing and turn it over a few times while blowing it out , that it is to try and blow fluid uphill around curves.
Make sure to use all new orings and you will need some R12 mineral oil or nylog for the new orings
I know it's a pain, but there's a good reason why good AC shops charge so much, it's a pain and it's time consuming to do correctly.
I normally only work on European cars, but ocasionally I'll work on something 'merican for a favor. I've got a buick in right now that wound up needing a hose assembly and after charging $240 I'm basically not going to make anything off it after shop expenses, but I know they really can't afford it and I don't want their kids to have to ride around in the heat. It really should cost closer to $350+ for that job...just for one hose, so when you consider the job that you have at hand, if you were to run that into an AC shop, it would end up costing you in the neighborhood of $1400 or so.....so if you have to spend a little time to yank a condensor out and clean it up properly, you're saving yourself a bundle in the long run.
I have never seen those inline filters at a local parts house. I've only seen them online here:
http://www.keep-it-kool.com/
http://www.acsource.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1243
If you have a good Napa store nearby, they will likely be able to get you one.
Keep in mind, if you go the filter route instead of throroughly cleaning, pay attention to how your ac is running. if it starts cooling less or cycling frequently, Check it with gauges and if the high side goes high and the low side low, the filter may be plugging up and you'll need to discharge it and change the filter. A lot of AC supply places don't carry the filters for just that reason.
--------Robert
metrojd
Full Access Member
Bad compresor
I had a compressor go and like mentioned the crud went to the orfice tube.
I had the system flushed and new tube installed, new comp. and dryer.
It would be ok for 15 min. then start to discharge pressure.
It turned out there was a piece of the comp. stuck in the condenser acting like a check valve.
When they flushed it they back flushed the system and ok but when the system was running the piece in the condensor flipped back and blocked the tube.
The out come was new condender also.
I had a compressor go and like mentioned the crud went to the orfice tube.
I had the system flushed and new tube installed, new comp. and dryer.
It would be ok for 15 min. then start to discharge pressure.
It turned out there was a piece of the comp. stuck in the condenser acting like a check valve.
When they flushed it they back flushed the system and ok but when the system was running the piece in the condensor flipped back and blocked the tube.
The out come was new condender also.
RLDSL- The condensor inlet and outlet tubes are on top so I guess that it has come out for flushing to be effective . From reading what you posted ,maybe it won't be as difficult as I thought.
metrojd - That is sounds like something that would happen to me
. I will look out for that too.
Thanks
metrojd - That is sounds like something that would happen to me
. I will look out for that too.Thanks
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I have done lots of ac work and I highly recommend replacing the condensor. They like to contaminate the system when you need it the most.
I would flush individual pieces and use new orings and seals going back together.
my2c
russ
I would flush individual pieces and use new orings and seals going back together.
my2c
russ
RLDSL- The condensor inlet and outlet tubes are on top so I guess that it has come out for flushing to be effective . From reading what you posted ,maybe it won't be as difficult as I thought.
metrojd - That is sounds like something that would happen to me
Thanks
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